NOT COOLING PROPERLY IN THE DOWN CHAMBER OF DOUBLE DOOR

Fan speed Tacho

https://www.google.com/search?q=Frigidaire+Gallery+double+wall+oven+is+throwing+code+F+43

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Depending whether it's a single with double door possibly a 2 door with 2 drawers you need to open the doors and look either in the center or on the right or left to see if there's a black cap that will twist off to openthe filter chamber usually the filters pressure fit into that soon as you open the cap will come out with the filter attached to just have to remove the cap and insert the filter into the chamber and replace the cap

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/howard_977676954994c5b2

Unplug the unit and take out all the drawers and remove the back (behind the drawers) panel carefully. (This back panel has foamy thermal insulation behind it and this will be probably be enmeshed with ice - you may have to wait awhile for this ice to melt before you can remove the panel, even after you have unscrewed it.
When you have got the back panel off, you will see a large solid block of ice, probably halfway up the cooling coils, right down to the bottom of the exposed space. You have to melt all this ice (I used a hair dryer to blow warm air onto the ice (have towels and a bucket ready to mop up the melted water, otherwise it will run over the floor. When you have melted all this ice, you will see a drain hole at the bottom of the exposed space. This will have ice in it and it must be cleared.
Then replace the back panel and all should be OK.
The panel bulges because ice/water is accumulating behind the panel, water, when it freezes, expands, forcing the panel forwards.
I reckon it's a Hotpoint Design fault. What is supposed to happen is that during the heating cycle, melted ice drops down from the cooling coils and down the drain hole onto a plate over the compressor unit, where it evaporates. BUT, during the cooling cycle, a fan circulates cold air from the cooling coils, through the entire unit, which includes the chamber behind the panel that is below the coils. Thus this chamber gets cold (-18 deg.C) so that water dripping down during the heating cycle is frozen before it has a chance to fall down the drain hole.
I now defrost in this manner every six months or so. Sadly, very sadly, Hotpoint, like other white goods manufacturers (Baxi Potterton boilers for instance) do not reply to my enquiries.
Hope this helps.

if you are sure it has cooled down cycle it again to clean hitting the cancel button shorty after it starts

Hi,
Cycling the power off and then on again will sometimes reset it...often you will have to call the customer service number to get the steps to take to unlock that...

Also check out this tip...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3969401-self_cleaning_oven_problem

heatman101

oven door locked during cleaning then would not unlock after cooling

need a part for a cambers electric cooktop model # AT-33-A

I believe this is because it takes a while for your oven to cool down (the cleaning cycle uses a very high temperature to burn up the grease and food). The timer is how long it takes before it will be cool, at which time the oven will unlock.

The problem is they overheat because hot air is drawn in by the blower and overheats the outer chamber of the oven where the thermo fuse link is. The one or two fuse links are blown simple replacement but have to remove oven (two person job) remove outer shell and find it (them) in the back of the oven. Also the fuse link wire going into the main processor is probably blown.