Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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Whirlpool Duet GHW9400PL front loading washer-control locked

My washing machine is less than 2 years old. Last week we had a power surge during a storm, then lost power. The next day I noticed the control lock light was on and the water had not drained out. I have tried all suggestions in the trouble-shooting section of the owner's manual with no luck. Also left it unplugged for a few days before plugging it back in. The control lock light is still on and it response to no amount of button pushing. What else can I try?

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I would suggest it would be better for you to bring it to repair person expert o washers. Because of the voltage fluctuation most likely they need to change some parts. 

Posted on Feb 06, 2008

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Hi,

the lid switch is not engaging and telling the machine that it is safe to spin/drain...check the lid switch, usually on the right had side of the top opening.....makes a soft click when the lid is closed. 2) you may have something caught in the water pump...if the washer is making all the sounds of it trying to drain, but nothing is going out, then the water pump may have something like a small sock stuck in it.

If not, you have a bad pump and it should be replaced. i think The part # is 280187 and list for $115.00 at your local appliance parts retailer.

If you want to take a chance of cleaning the pump then do the following

UNPLUG THE WASHER!

You'll need to remove the three screws that are located below the bottom front panel. (Do this easily by leaning the machine backwards toward the wall and propping the 2 front feet up with a brick or the 4" side of a 2x4) These screws are star shaped, called "Torx" screws, size #20. After you have those removed, pull the panel downward and pull out from the bottom at the same time, then set the panel aside.

Mounted to the floor of the machine near the center is the drain pump, see the hose coming out of the bottom of the tub and into the pump? That one will HAVE to be clamped off before you continue. Use 2 open end wrenches and a pair of vice grips... use the wrenches to pinch off the hose and the vice grips to clamp the TIGHTLY into place.

Now remove the drain trap cover. Rotate the hand grip counter-clockwise several turns and pull it toward you. (*THERE WILL BE SOME WATER COME OUT EVEN THOUGH YOU HAVE THE HOSE CLAMPED OFF. HAVE TOWELS READY) Use a flashlight and your fingers to inspect the pump area, remove any debris you find. Make sure it's COMPLETELY cleared out. Then re-install the drain trap cover next remove your hose clamps. Plug your machine back in and set it to "spin only" and engage. You should hear the pump fire up and water being evacuated. Is so? You did it! Rebuild everything.

If not, you have a bad pump and it should be replaced. i think The part # is 280187 and list for $115.00 at your local appliance parts retailer.

Good luck,
Please don't forget to rate me as fixya..

Posted on Feb 06, 2008

  • Priya darshan Feb 06, 2008

    Forgot to mention this:

    To fix the lid switch:
    Remove the 2 screws that secure the console to the cabinet (on a
    Kenmore, they may be hidden under the end caps). Remove the 2 gold
    clips, and disconnect the lid switch harness. Tilt the cabinet forward,
    and off of the base. The lid switch can now be replaced

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I am wondering if that is just going to continue and need to replace entire washer?


Unless the machine is over 25 years old or is being used more frequently than once a day I would maintain the machine doing as many repairs as possible myself or if available have a reasonable repair service I would still consider maintaining the machine. I'm amazed at the reliability of the older units.

Many of the repair parts have had the corrections made to prevent them from failing for the same reason. This will increase the reliability of the older machines. Also in general the older units are less complex (less things to fail) and easier to repair. You should expect that a newer machine, using significantly more complexity, uses less water and electricity to achieve the same cleaning performance as an older machine.

The control electronics have an indefinite life meaning they fail for components on the board not because they wear out or get old. The likelihood of a new/replacement board failing is consistent with the likely hood of a brand new machine failing. As the control boards age they are less likely to fail.

Using u-tube and fixya and other sources of repair knowledge the older machines have a wealth of experience to bring to solving the problem The newest technology machines will have to go through the learning curve.

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