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The only possibilities are that the shutter is not working when the lens is mounted on the body, that the film is being inserted incorrectly with the backing paper facing forwards, or the film processing is completely wrong.
I haven't suggested that the film isn't winding through the camera as I'm assuming that when you remove it the film has all transferred to the previously empty spool. I've also assumed that when you describe the processed film as "blank" that you mean it is completely unexposed (clear) as opposed to completely exposed and washed out (opaque).
The Hasselblad ELM does not need adapting to use the Imacon or hasselblad digital back
the following backs fit on the ELM and can be triggered with a cable that should be supplied with the back.
Hasselblad V96c 16mp square format back
Hasselblad CFV 16mp square format back with CF slot
Hasselblad CFVII 16mp square format back with CF slot + larger screen
the following backs will work but need to have a V adapter plate fitted to the back
96c 16mp square format back
132c 22mp 645 format back
528c 22mp 645 format back with Multishot option
CF-22 22mp 645 format back with CF slot
CF-22 MS 22mp 645 format back with CF slot & Multishot option
CF-39 39mp 645 format back with CF slot
CF-39 MS 39mp 645 format back with CF slot & Multishot option
When fitting and digital back to an older camera the best advice is to get the camera body serviced to ensure that the back mount is correct as the digital backs require a better fit than the film backs did. If the mount is off it will cause back or front focus.
If i remember correctly there should be a button on the bottom of the camera opposite side of the film winder if you press that button it will release the tension on the film and allow you to reel the film back into the film canistor.BE CAREFUL when reeling it back in because you can reel the whole roll back into the film canistor, when you think your getting towards the end go SLOW you will feal the reel loosen up alot.that means that the film has let go of the other side STOP and you can open the case without exposong your film.GOOD LUCK if this helps rate me or leave some more info.Thanks.
I have the same housing, and have all of these parts. However, I need to keep them so that I can still operate my rig.
I have a few suggestions:
1) create and save some searches in ebay that will alert you to this stuff when it eventually will surface
2) contact Subaquatic Camera in Salinas, CA. My understanding from one of their techs is that he fabricated at least some of these parts for another client. Perhaps he still has the machining specs and could make them up for you
3) contact me if you need photographs of the parts for purposes of providing to a machine shop to have them made for you (earmstro a t hotmail d o t com)
And for anyone else who has parts for these housings, I am looking for two different parts that go with a SWC camera in this housing:
- the fitting that mounts in the flash shoe, that engages with the front section mechanicals to trip the shutter release
- the film advance adapter for a SWC
I would most like to purchase these parts but if someone can just help me out with photographs (and better yet, dimensions taken with a micrometer), I would be most grateful as that will be enough information to go have the parts I need made.
There were several versions of the 500C/M as production was over many years. The 501C had all the latest revisions of the 500 C/M series to make it the better choice. You'll get more $ for the 501 for this reason. Later versions of the 500C/M had a much better coil spring to control the mirror for starters. Unless you are going to use this camera for daily professional use, either would be a reliable camera. A good way to check the amount of use on any Hasselblad is to look at the back of the camera where the film magazine mounts. A good solid black with no shiny spots on the plate would indicate little use. There are raised lines around the aux. shutter opening that will wear as film back are removed and replaced.