Condenser is clean fan is working but unit kicks out the internal thermal overload every 10 days or so.Have to unplug unit for approx. 2hrs. and when compressor is cool to touch it will run fine for 10-14 days until it happens again.I am heating A/C tech. with universal license and this is my home unit,however, my field of work normally does not include appliances,being my own unit I would love some help in diagnostics. Thanx Jamie
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It could be a low refrigerant cut-out (switch), grounded or shorted motor windings, open internal winding overload protector (check at the common winding), a broken conductor, or no power at condensing unit from blown fuses or open/tripped breaker.
the unit may be knocking off on defrost if the coil is getting v cold,
check for full airflow over the indoor unit/evaporator coil, check filters fan operation and coil condition. Likewise it may be overheating so check the same on the outdoor unit/condenser clean coil and fan operation.
Unlikely but the unit may be under performing and slightly short on refrigerant, not providing enough suction cooling to the compressor motor so the internal over temp klixon would cut it off for short periods, to cool the motor.
Thant must be checked out soon as that buzzing sound is the start relay struggling to start the compressor. The longer it goes on without repair to either the sart/run capacitor, start relay and overload the higher the chance there is for complete compressor failure. The condenser and evaporator areas should be cleaned and inspect both internal freezer fan and lower condenser fan that both run without stopping. Let me look for a service manual for your model and return soon, Thanks, Sea breeze
. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on
and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload
relay. Check to see if the
condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no
Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should
How to check stuff> http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
Have you cleaned the condenser coils? Depending on model, they are either on bottom, behind the kick plate, or on the back of the cabinet. If they are dirty, and they can get that way quickly, it restricts the ability of the condenser fan to dissipate the heat in the freon. You may only be noticing a lesser amount of cooing, or if not corrected, can block all heat dissipating air, which can cause your compressor to kick on and off, or cut off all together, due to it's (normally) built-in thermal overload circuit. Hope this solves your problem.
Sounds like the start relay, start capacitor and overload have become defective. Turn it off to prevent further damage to the compressor internal overload. Check to make sure the condenser fan and the evaporator fans are running and get back with me with an answer yes or no. Thanks, Sea Breeze
If the model number you have above your post are correct I will also send you part numbers and hot to replace.
Sounds like the thermal overload on the compressor is tripping in and out. This is caused by either a weak thermal overload switch or the compressor is bad. Usually it is the latter of the two. If the compressor is kicking off but the fan is still running, then this is the case. If the entire unit is shutting down due to the breaker tripping, then you may have a bad Start Capacitor or PTCR Device. On the upper unit, remove the shroud and then there is an access panel on the side of the AC. Remove the cover to expose the capacitors. The start capacitor has a small black relay attached to the top of it, make sure that this relay is not burned out. If so, then it will need to be replaced. If it is fine, then I would say that you have a bad compressor of the condenser is dirty.
Is the condenser fan (outside) turning? You mention that it's hot but don't say if it's turning or not.
These fan motors normally run pretty hot, but not so much that they shut down due to internal thermal overload protectors.
Both the compressor and the fan have termperature overload protectors to keep them from burning out the motor in the event of an overheated condition. The condenser fan must be running or high freon pressure will put an excessive load on the compressor and it will 'kick out' the high-temp overload protector.
Turn off the unit by pulling the outside disconnect (in a small box near the outside compressor unit) or flip the AC breakers in the breaker box. Wait about 30 minutes for the unit to cool off and turn it back on. If the compressor and fan both run for awhile then kick back off, or the fan motor seems to be working under excessive strain, you've probably got a bad motor start condenser (inside the unit) that little round can that is connected through the fan motor wiring. If it's swollen or leaking, it's almost surely defective and even if it's not, excessive load on the motor is a classic sign of a bad start condenser.
You can usually find these at electrical supply stores, well-stocked hardware stores, or most certainly at an HVAC parts house. Be sure to replace the old one with one of the EXACT same value (in voltage and Microfarads (mF) capacity. The shape may be a little different, but as long as the electrical characteristics are the same and is rated at the same or higher voltage than the original, it will work.
Connect the new condenser, mount it to the frame, and restart the unit. This should take care of the problem.
Hmm It's passable that the condenser fan motor is not spinning at speed or is running for a period of time and over heating and the Condenser fan motors internal overload protection trips and takes it of line shortly thereafter, of course, the compressor internal overload trips and takes it of line. Spraying with the water hose sped up the cool down on the internal overloads but I'm afraid it probably didn't do much to help the original problem. You could try replacing the Fan condensing motor capacitor-(it's listed on the side of the motor if the capacitor cant be read) and oiling the motor if it has oil ports (2 small plugs located along the perimeter of each end of the motor). If the motor can be oiled and you replace the capacitor theres a fair chance you might get by another year without replacing the condenser fan motor. Charged capacitors pack a nasty jolt so be careful, hope this was helpful, GL! P.S. If it is the cond. fan motor and you replace it be sure you get a sealed outdoor rated cond. fan motor and the appropriate rain guards are installed.