Wiring in a cd player and cant find which wires to plug in
Wiring the System:
Wiring is an important factor in your audio system. You need enough power cable to run from your car battery's positive terminal through the firewall to the amplifier. The thickness or gauge (AWG) of the power wire is very important because you want to make sure wire can handle the power demand of your system. To find out the right gauge you must ascertain the approximate current draw (in amperes) of your amplifier (or amplifiers). First, calculate the total power of each amp (multiply the number of channels by the number of RMS watts per channel). If you have multiple amps, add up the total power figures to arrive at a grand total. Second, double your grand total power figure. Finally, divide by 13.8 — the result is your system's approximate current draw in amperes. Be sure to install an in-line fuse or circuit breaker near the battery. Without one, an accidental short circuit could pose a fire hazard and damage your amp (not to mention your car). Your ground wire should be of the same gauge as your power wire and must make direct contact with the body of the car. Look for an existing bolt or screw that makes contact with the car body closest to the amp. Remove the bolt or screw, and scrape away any paint or grime. A star washer will help your ground wire maintain solid contact with the car body. Use a ring terminal on the end of the ground wire, to keep it securely fastened to the bolt or screw. If you cannot find a convenient ground screw or bolt, drill a hole for one. Be careful not to drill into the gas tank, a gas line, or a brake line. If you are grounding multiple components, try to ground each one separately, with about a half-inch of space between each of the grounding points. If you'd rather use a single bolt, place the ground for the most current-hungry component (probably the biggest amp) closest to the body of the car. Put the ground for the component that draws the least current (probably the electronic crossover) on top. The last wire you need for powering the amp is a turn-on lead. It does not need to be as thick as the power and ground wires (18 gauge should be fine). It runs from the remote turn-on lead at the back of your receiver to the remote terminal on the amp. When connecting these wires, be sure to use crimp-on spade or ring terminals to get the best signal transfer. Your car's alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. An alternator that cannot handle your power demand will hurt your systems output. Here is how to find out if your alternator can do the job for your system. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much power demand your car's system can handle. An alternator capable of producing 55-65 amperes is usually adequate for systems up to 350 watts RMS. A Japanese car with a 35-amp alternator can accommodate around 125 watts of power, while a German car with a 90-amp alternator can handle a 500-watt system. Heavy-duty capacitors connect to the power cable (just before it reaches your amplifier) and act as a buffer zone between your amp and your car's electrical system. They store up a reservoir of power that can supply the amplifier's peak demands (like a kick drum beat) without having to get current from the battery. Capacitors come in half or full Farad. You can use one or link as many as you want depending on what your system demands. Car audio competitors often replace their vehicle's alternators with heavy-duty upgrades to accommodate big power demands. An amp can be securely installed with just a few screws. But since amps can be sensitive to electrical and motor noise and because interference from the amp may affect your radio reception, try to mount it at least 3 feet away from the receiver. When working inside the trunk, tape over the latch, so you will not become trapped inside accidentally. If the amp is in the trunk, run the input signal leads down the same side of the car as any speaker wires you have installed. Run the power and turn-on leads down the other side of the car to avoid interference. Do not mount an amp or other car stereo components such as electronic crossovers or equalizers directly on steel — you will invite noise problems. Instead, mount the amp on a non-conductive board and mount the board to the car body (or use rubber grommets under the screws to isolate the amp). Before you drill the screw holes to mount your amp, hook it up and give it a test run. If the amp is operating correctly, with no engine noise, then proceed with the installation. There is also a safety issue here: Components that aren't securely mounted could break loose during an accident and injure someone as they fly through the passenger compartment. Use bolts and nuts or screws to secure amplifiers and other components to their mounting locations.
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Jun 12, 2009 |
1999 Ford Escort