Looking for parts numbers for a heater element and thermostat for a lx18h

Go to ecosmartus.com
Click products tab at top of page
Click on your model number
Click on replacement parts tab
Buy part from ecosmart
Or remove element from water heater and look to see if threads are standard water heater element threads... then look at volts and watts printed on end of each element... buy ordinary element if it will work.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

I have to asume the wiring connections had not changed since it last worked.
There are three versions. LX18, LX18C and LX18H.
Inspect the relay board for damage. The connections can come loose and melt relays.
It could also be the wash sump tank heater or the booster heater if it's an H. The other two only have a sump heater. If you power it on, and have no water in it's tanks, the elements can glow red hot till they trip the high limits.

Hello im not familiar with this model, but looking at the schematic for the models its similar to a heater blower. as you say it is heating up but only blowing cool are but the thermostat is turning off as its getting hot, the only thing i can find that would make it do this is if its blocked on the heater element, or the heater element is only half working, the device has a thermal fuse on the heating element this could also be a problem you would need to remove the try that hold the heater element ands test the heater element with a meter to see if its working if that's fine, then one of the thermal switches would be at fault. there is alot of model number for this brand but they all have the same setup. the panel for the heat looks like it only has 2 screws hold it in place, but disconnect the fuse before opening the unit. there is 2 setting on the heater elements that means there is 2 elements one top and one bottom in the case. there is also 2 thermostats on this model im looking at that are for the heater controls these would when they get to the temp required turn the elements on and off. there is also a thermal fuse that if the element gets to hot with turn it off. check these. remember dont open the unit until the power is off and disconnected from the mains supply . personally i would think the thermostat switches need replacing, these are cheap to replace the part number is on them use the same part number to get the right part ebay or heating suppliers will have these parts in stock, they wear out as they the only moving parts apart from the fan but thats working or you would not have cool air.

You have electric water heater.
Electric water heaters are fully repairable by homeowner, excluding hybrid type.

Rheem electric water heaters:
http://www.rheem.com/products/tank_water_heaters/electric_water_heaters/
Rheem fury series manuals and models
http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=09DF2BDD-5E11-4D32-B574-84ACFB8A4619

Age of Rheem water heater is shown first 4 digits of serial number located on side of tank: for example 0705 means July 2005.
Serial number also shows model number & wattage of elements in case you need to buy new generic 4-bolt type 4500 Watt element from hardware store.

A) If your water heater receives very cold incoming water, it may not heat fast enough to keep tank warm.
Add a tempering tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tempering-tank.html
Add insulation over entire water heater except TP valve. Insulate pipes completely.
Read more information:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

B) 40 or 50 gallon water heater is 240Volts and tank will have 2 access panels on front.
Rheem ships all water heaters with 4500 Watt elements.

Narrow down the suspects:
C) Water heater has some hot water.
This tells us upper element is working.
And that water heater electricity is working.
And that reset button is not tripped.
And that heater is not experiencing run-away overheating event.

That gives us 3 solid suspects.
1) lower element is burned out. Test lower element using inexpensive multi-meter from Home Depot.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
Replace element with same wattage shown on label, and clean out sediment:
This will restore water heater to full 99% efficiency.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

2) Upper or lower thermostat is bad. Replace both thermostats for about $25.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
If you want to test thermostats and all parts before replacing anything:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

3) Burned or shorted wire. Turn off power. Open covers on side of tank. Remove insulation. Inspect parts for signs of high heat and burning. Especially lower element. Tighten any loose wires. Replace part that shows signs of burning.
Put insulation and cover back over thermostats so cooler outside temperature doesn't cause thermostat to misread tank temperature.

Rheem 4500 watt element

You have electric water heater.
Electric water heaters are fully repairable by homeowner.

Reliance is AO Smith company
http://www.aosmith.com/OperatingUnits/Detail.aspx?id=138&ekmensel=c580fa7b_12_0_138_3
http://www.reliancewaterheaters.com/prod/elec.html

Age of Reliance water heater is shown on serial number located on side of tank:
first digit is letter. Next two digits are numbers: for example C06 means 2006.
Serial number also shows model number & wattage of elements in case you need new element from hardware store.

ECO reset button trips when upper thermostat senses temperatures higher than 150 to 180 degrees.
When ECO energy cut off trips, it turns off power at the reset button, so the tank does not continue overheating.
Tripping reset button says tank is receiving electricity, so we can eliminate that suspect.

There are 4 reasons why ECO will trip.
1) Bad upper or lower thermostat: solution replace both thermostats for about 25$. Steps shown in link below.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
2) Loose wire or shorted wire at or near upper thermostat: Open covers on water heater and inspect parts for signs of high heat and burning.
3) Bad element shorted to ground in center of element: Solution test elements and replace defective element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html
4) Factory-installed insulation and cover has been removed from tank: thermostat exposed to cooler temperatures, and misreads tank temperature, and then elements keep heating water.

If you want to test all the parts before replacing anything:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html


Thermostats are generic, and each functions same way and each can replace the other.
Same is true for both upper and lower thermostats

You have electric water heater.
Electric water heaters are fully repairable by homeowner, excluding hybrid type.

Rheem electric water heaters:
http://www.rheem.com/products/tank_water_heaters/electric_water_heaters/
Rheem fury series manuals and models
http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=09DF2BDD-5E11-4D32-B574-84ACFB8A4619

Age of Rheem water heater is first 4 digits of serial number located on side of tank: for example 0705 means July 2005.
Serial number also shows model number & wattage of elements.

A) If your water heater receives very cold incoming water, it may not heat fast enough to keep tank warm.
Add a tempering tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tempering-tank.html
Add insulation over entire water heater except TP valve. Insulate pipes completely.
Read more information:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

B) If cold outside temperatures are not to blame, your water heater may have a bad thermostat or bad lower element.

C) 40 or 50 gallon water heater is 240Volts and tank will have 2 access panels on front.
Rheem ships all water heaters with 4500 Watt elements.

Narrow down the suspects:
D) Water heater has some hot water.
This tells us upper element is working.
And that water heater electricity is working.
And that reset button is not tripped.
And that heater is not experiencing run-away overheating event.

That gives us 3 solid suspects.
1) lower element is burned out. Test lower element using inexpensive multi-meter from Home Depot.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
Replace element with same wattage shown on label, and clean out sediment:
This will restore water heater to full 99% efficiency.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

2) Upper or lower thermostat is bad. Replace both thermostats for about $25.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
If you want to test thermostats and all parts before replacing anything:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

3) Burned or shorted wire. Turn off power. Open covers on side of tank. Remove insulation. Inspect parts for signs of high heat and burning. Especially lower element. Tighten any loose wires. Replace part that shows signs of burning.
Put insulation and cover back over thermostats so cooler outside temperature doesn't cause thermostat to misread tank temperature.
Rheem element

You have electric water heater.
Electric water heaters are fully repairable by homeowner.

Reliance is AO Smith company
http://www.aosmith.com/OperatingUnits/Detail.aspx?id=138&ekmensel=c580fa7b_12_0_138_3
http://www.reliancewaterheaters.com/prod/elec.html

Age of Reliance water heater is shown on serial number located on side of tank: first digit is letter. Next two digits are numbers: for example C06 means 2006.
Serial number also shows model number & wattage of elements in case you need new element from hardware store.

A) If your water heater receives very cold incoming water, it may not heat fast enough to keep tank warm.
Add a tempering tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tempering-tank.html
Add insulation over entire water heater except TP valve. Insulate pipes completely.
Read more information:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

B) If cold outside temperatures are not to blame, your water heater may have a bad thermostat or element.
Narrow down the suspects:

Water heater is 240Volts since you have more than 1 thermostat.
Water heater has some hot water.
This tells us upper element is working.
And that water heater electricity is working.
And that reset button is not tripped.
And that heater is not experiencing run-away overheating event.

That gives us 3 solid suspects.
1) lower element is burned out. Test lower element using inexpensive multi-meter from Home Depot.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
Replace element with same wattage shown on label, and clean out sediment:
This will restore water heater to full 99% efficiency.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

2) Upper or lower thermostat is bad. Replace both thermostats for about $25.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
If you want to test thermostats and all parts before replacing anything:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

3) Burned or shorted wire. Turn off power. Open covers on side of tank. Remove insulation. Inspect parts for signs of high heat and burning. Especially lower element. Tighten any loose wires. Replace part that shows signs of burning.
Put insulation and cover back over thermostats so cooler outside temperature doesn't cause thermostat to misread tank temperature.

If original problem was caused by sediment burning out lower element, did you clean sediment out of water heater when changing lower element?
Two element water heaters are 240V.
Thermostats cut power on one hot wire, but 240V circuit has 2 hot wires. So lower element has power at all times coming from the red wire.
1) Use ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> test each screw of lower element to bare metal part of water heater. Each screw should show 120V. If there is no power, then upper thermostat is defective, screw on upper thermostat is loose, or red wire between upper and lower parts of water heater is bad.
2) Remove wires from lower element. Use continuity tester or multimeter set to ohms <> test across both screws of element to see if power travels through element <> if element is bad, then continuity tester will not light up and multimeter will show no ohms. Put wires back on element after test.
3) Start with cold water in tank. Turn on water heater & upper element will turn on. Put ear on side of tank to hear if upper element is heating water. Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 240V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 0V.
Put ear on side of tank. When upper element turns off: Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 0V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 240V. If this test shows 0V and 0V, then upper thermostat is bad. If reading is correct, immediately move to next test.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Thermostats-numbered-divided-500.jpg
4) Turn temp on lower thermostat to 150. Using ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> Test across both screws of lower element. If there is no reading, and you know element is good from step 2, then lower thermostat is bad, or wire is bad between lower element and lower thermostat, or wire is bad between lower thermostat and top part of heater.
5) Test across both lower thermostat screws, should read 240V.If this test is good, it means wires are good. Put jumper wire across both screws of lower thermostat, and test lower element again. If element finally turns on with jumper wire, then lower thermostat is bad.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

If wire is bad between upper and lower parts of water heater, and water heater has tight-fitting 2" foam insulation, it usually indicates water heater replacement.

Most likely part number WR51X10101 Defrost Heater has burned out. Unplug and remove the rear panel inside the freezer. Defrost with a hair dryer and examine the defrost heater and look to see if burned out, It has a glass tube around the heater element and will be easy to see if burned out. If you need to replace the defrost heater you should also replace the defrost thermostat part number WR50X10054 If you don't see a problem with the defrost heater and I will instruct you on how to manually defrost to test the heater and defrost thermostat. Check for bad connections on wiring to heater and defrost thermostat. Your model has a mother control board part number WR55X10942 We may also need to check that because it does the thinking and determines the time for defrost. Let me Know what you find, Thanks, Sea Breeze

on your old heater there was a "thermostat, mounted to the lower end of the heater correct?? youllneed to remount that to the new heater( one end will gp to one terminal on heater) ohter "thick wire" goes to the other heater terminal, and on eto the open thermostat connectore, the last wire should be smaller in size and connect to teh side of the thermostat you just installed