Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Duet sport not filling w/water

Other posting said it's either the belt broken or motor brushes. Belt not
broken....where are the brushes and can they be replaced?

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  • aaronw0527 Feb 17, 2008

    Here's what happened....Washer worked most of the time occasionally getting an F30 error code, but it still worked. Fuse blew one day and now when you turn the washer on any cycle it makes a noise in the dispenser area but will not fill with water. After about 5 minutes it stops and flashes error code 30. I replaced the pressure switch and thats not it. Still does not fill....

  • aaronw0527 Feb 17, 2008

    I already checked and both have continuity...plus I also read that it
    is highly unlikely that both the hot and cold would go bad a the same time.

  • missygirl22 May 10, 2008

    F-30 code blinks after about 5 minutes but no water comes out. The electrical pannel works. Whats wrong??

  • auntrobbie Jun 18, 2008

    I am having the same problem though I have not yet tried to have it looked at yet.

  • Aerocraftsme Jun 19, 2008

    I have had the same problem, No Water and F 30 failure code. The water distribution switch located on the top rear of the water distributor had faulty solder contacts for the motor. I replaced this switch PN# 8540041 and it seems to be working fine now.

  • Anonymous Dec 02, 2008

    Machine is showing it is on the rinse cycle. The noise, sounds like chatter or gear noise, appears to be up near the dispenser area. I hear this about 4 or 5 times over a 4 minute period. Then the Error F30 is displayed and the unit stops.

  • Maxie48 May 11, 2010

    I had the F30 on my dryer and can't find anything on that?

  • Karl Whisenand
    Karl Whisenand May 11, 2010

    Not filling with water means the water control relay may be bad.
    do you hear it click and does any water flow at all.
    the belt and motor has to do with the drum rotating.

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Check this manual
http://adcxns1.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/eab852a13fbc842085256aa200643dd6/$FILE/Duet%20Job%20Aid.pdf
scroll down to page 67.
see the cold /hot valve connect to vch7.3
notice that the drain pump also shares this circuit.
remove the connectors from the ccu board and run the continuity tests on page 40.
check the drain pump for blockage or debris be sure the pump is moving freely.
the UJT transistor connected to vch7.1 may be blown but then the same would have happened to vch7.5 each control the hot or cold respectively.
I would as said earlier to remove the ccu board and look for damaged solder around the white relays
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mysteryonionpatch/471156850/sizes/o/
in that photo the transistors in question should be to the left of the white relays.
you say a fuse blew I assume it was the house panel fuse.
I can only say this unit has sever solder issues around the relays
see this discussion that got me onto this board.
http://www.fixya.com/support/t364216-whirlpool_duet_ht_ghw9400pl0

anyway if you verify the operation of the pump and valves, you may want to just purchase a ccu if you want to get it over with.
I bet you have a stack of dirty laundry by now.

Posted on Feb 17, 2008

In the bottom of the unit when you open the bottom access panel is a schematic if you know how to read it..
I am thinking that the triac that controls the water valves is bad.
check to see if the valves have voltage, you wil have to nick the wire to test. it is normally 110 ac ,but I havent looked at the schematic.
I usually just supply my own voltage to them to test the valve operation. the valves are in the top rear where the hoses screw in and connected to the water dispenser.
this board is also very bad on solder joint. usually on the relays. I would take the board out and inspect the solder.
before you replace the board you need to verify the operation of the valves.

Posted on Feb 17, 2008

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Drum will not trun


It is one of two things: the belt from the motor that drives the drum has broken, or the motor itself is seized. The belt will cost about $10, the motor about $150-$200. Add to that the cost of labor and you might as well go buy a cheap new one if it's the motor.

You can tell by turning it over and looking underneath. If the belt is attached and not broken, it's probably the motor.
Several different possibilities depending upon the model.
Is it displaying an error message or just not spinning/turning at any point?
Is the door interlock working? if this is broken then the machine wont do anything as this is a safety feature.
Most machines are still belt driven in which case check that the belt hasn't come of or broken.
One way to check on a belt drive is if you can turn the drum easily by hand then the belt is off/broken. You should be able to access either by taking the lid off (2 or 3 screws), via a panel on the back or just tilt the machine forward and look from underneath with a torch. If the belt is intact then check that the motor brushes are ok, to get to them you need to get to the motor which will require a bit more access. They are carbon brushes and can break or wear down. On some hotpoints the vibrations can break the wires to the brushes as they are rather short.

Some machines have direct drive motors. In this case there is no belt, the motor is where the wheel on the back of the drum would usually be. If its a direct drive and the motor isn't working then its likely that you have lost one or more set of coils. Direct drives are far more expensive than belt drives to fix.

If you have access to a multimeter you can check for continuity . If everything checks out then the last probable cause is the control electronics, either direct failure or a sensor input failure. As well as the door interlock there is also a pressure level sensor to check that the fill level is correct. If this is blocked it may think its getting no water. Or it could be an inlet valve failure and it really is getting no water. Again they are designed to stop and wait until the pressure system tells them its reached the right level but they do usually start spinning while they wait. Conversely if the sensor has failed 'full' it wont spin because it thinks its full of water and will try to pump out.
  • Edited 4 months ago

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It fills with water and then it does nothing.I thought there was a problem with the water pump, and replaced it. Now as I move the knob through the wash cycles by turning it, I get it to drain at least,...


Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(suggestions/guidance!)
This sounds very much like the belt is broken or the motor is malfunctioning.
Belt first.
Belts are not expensive- sorry I do not know how much yours would cost- and are easy to be changed by a competent person:-
REMOVE POWER FROM THE MACHINE AND REMOVE THE BACK.
The motor support bolts should be loosened and the old belt removed. Often putting the new belt on is a bit of a struggle, even with the motor 'loose', because it is new and smaller!
Once on it should be tensioned by pulling the motor against the belt firmly- but not over tight- and the motor support bolts tightened.
ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY FORM OF LEVERAGE BE USED TO TENSION THE BELT. THAT COULD LEAD TO DAMAGE TO THE BELT, MOTOR AND BEARINGS- EXPENSIVE!
If it turns out to be the motor, it is false economy to just have the brushes changed although financially very attractive. Experience of others is that the brushes may only last months unless, that is, the motor is totally refurbished at the same time. It depends on how old the motor is and how much wear the commutator has had. New motors are not cheap, though. It's your choice!

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
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