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Re: duet sport not filling w/water
Check this manual
scroll down to page 67. see the cold /hot valve connect to vch7.3 notice that the drain pump also shares this circuit. remove the connectors from the ccu board and run the continuity tests on page 40. check the drain pump for blockage or debris be sure the pump is moving freely. the UJT transistor connected to vch7.1 may be blown but then the same would have happened to vch7.5 each control the hot or cold respectively. I would as said earlier to remove the ccu board and look for damaged solder around the white relays http://www.flickr.com/photos/mysteryonionpatch/471156850/sizes/o/ in that photo the transistors in question should be to the left of the white relays. you say a fuse blew I assume it was the house panel fuse. I can only say this unit has sever solder issues around the relays see this discussion that got me onto this board. http://www.fixya.com/support/t364216-whirlpool_duet_ht_ghw9400pl0
anyway if you verify the operation of the pump and valves, you may want to just purchase a ccu if you want to get it over with. I bet you have a stack of dirty laundry by now.
In the bottom of the unit when you open the bottom access panel is a schematic if you know how to read it..
I am thinking that the triac that controls the water valves is bad.
check to see if the valves have voltage, you wil have to nick the wire
to test. it is normally 110 ac ,but I havent looked at the schematic.
I usually just supply my own voltage to them to test the valve
operation. the valves are in the top rear where the hoses screw in and
connected to the water dispenser.
this board is also very bad on solder joint. usually on the relays. I would take the board out and inspect the solder.
before you replace the board you need to verify the operation of the valves.
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It is one of two things: the belt from the motor that drives the drum has broken, or the motor itself is seized. The belt will cost about $10, the motor about $150-$200. Add to that the cost of labor and you might as well go buy a cheap new one if it's the motor.
You can tell by turning it over and looking underneath. If the belt is attached and not broken, it's probably the motor.
Several different possibilities depending upon the model. Is it displaying an error message or just not spinning/turning at any point? Is the door interlock working? if this is broken then the machine wont do anything as this is a safety feature. Most machines are still belt driven in which case check that the belt hasn't come of or broken. One way to check on a belt drive is if you can turn the drum easily by hand then the belt is off/broken. You should be able to access either by taking the lid off (2 or 3 screws), via a panel on the back or just tilt the machine forward and look from underneath with a torch. If the belt is intact then check that the motor brushes are ok, to get to them you need to get to the motor which will require a bit more access. They are carbon brushes and can break or wear down. On some hotpoints the vibrations can break the wires to the brushes as they are rather short.
Some machines have direct drive motors. In this case there is no belt, the motor is where the wheel on the back of the drum would usually be. If its a direct drive and the motor isn't working then its likely that you have lost one or more set of coils. Direct drives are far more expensive than belt drives to fix.
If you have access to a multimeter you can check for continuity . If everything checks out then the last probable cause is the control electronics, either direct failure or a sensor input failure. As well as the door interlock there is also a pressure level sensor to check that the fill level is correct. If this is blocked it may think its getting no water. Or it could be an inlet valve failure and it really is getting no water. Again they are designed to stop and wait until the pressure system tells them its reached the right level but they do usually start spinning while they wait. Conversely if the sensor has failed 'full' it wont spin because it thinks its full of water and will try to pump out.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
This sounds very much like the belt is broken or the motor is malfunctioning.
Belts are not expensive- sorry I do not know how much yours would cost- and are easy to be changed by a competent person:-
REMOVE POWER FROM THE MACHINE AND REMOVE THE BACK.
The motor support bolts should be loosened and the old belt removed. Often putting the new belt on is a bit of a struggle, even with the motor 'loose', because it is new and smaller!
Once on it should be tensioned by pulling the motor against the belt firmly- but not over tight- and the motor support bolts tightened.
ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY FORM OF LEVERAGE BE USED TO TENSION THE BELT. THAT COULD LEAD TO DAMAGE TO THE BELT, MOTOR AND BEARINGS- EXPENSIVE!
If it turns out to be the motor, it is false economy to just have the brushes changed although financially very attractive. Experience of others is that the brushes may only last months unless, that is, the motor is totally refurbished at the same time. It depends on how old the motor is and how much wear the commutator has had. New motors are not cheap, though. It's your choice!
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
Sounds like you have a broken belt or a bad motor. The easiest way to tell if the belt is bad is to reach inside the drum and turn it. If it turns very easily, you probably have a bad belt or something has caused the belt to jump off, such a s a loose pulley or bad bearing. If it feels like there is a good amount of resistance, or a kind of "winding up" noise, then the belt is still on and you likely have a bad motor. Also, you could just scoot the macine out, unplug it, and remove the back cover a look inside to see if the belt is still on the pulleys. Good Luck!