Question about Washing Machines

4 Answers

Kenmore 90 series washer will not drain

It goes through the agitate cycle and stops at the drain before the spin cycle, no motor sound or sucking pump sounds. Any suggestions?

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  • 8 more comments 
  • Nancyowens2 Feb 05, 2008

    Thanks, I think you are right about the switch. I was noticing that the switch for the lid is missing altogether. I will try to do the steps you mentioned. Is there a drain plug or button somewhere while I have the washer opened? My friend said it happened to her once and the repair man pushed a drain button.

  • Nancyowens2 Feb 05, 2008

    Ok, the switch is broken off completely. I see the 2 screws in place where the switch once was attached. I cannot get the console or top of the washer open, only the lid. Can I unscrew the switch and pull the wires and go get a replacement somewhere? Or, should I call someone to come out and do this for me and charge me a service call fee of what?

  • Nancyowens2 Feb 05, 2008

    Actually, I got the switch unscrewed and yes, I still need to get up under the lid, I see that the switch is broken off where the lid hits the plastic on the switch. I need to get behind the washer but since it is full of water, I can't move it enough to get back there and do anything.

  • Nancyowens2 Feb 07, 2008

    No not yet, I've been sick in bed and have not had time to go to the hardware store and get a couple of putty knives to open the console yet. Can I get the switch in Dublin somewhere? My dad said there was a store in Dublin to get the switch. Thanks for the follow up, I am storing up on dirty clothes so I better get it done soon.

  • Nancyowens2 Feb 08, 2008

    There are no console end caps. The whole console wraps around and has a split between the console and the rest of the washer about 1-2 inches from the top. That is where I am assuming you want me to stick the putty knives. I already tried butter knives but they were a bit too thick to really get in with out ruining them. Dublin, Ca. Aren't you in San Mateo?

  • Nancyowens2 Feb 09, 2008

    ok, done almost...how do I get the brass clips back inside the machine? I followed the steps but can't figure out how to get them back in without unscrewing the entire machine again.

  • konavic Jun 07, 2008

    Kenmore 90 does not drain after wash cycle. Don't know how to open to check switch. What do I do?

  • rebelfairy4u Aug 18, 2008

    my washing machine still had water in it did not spin out all the way and the top half of the agitator does not aggitate properly

  • Anonymous Dec 11, 2008

    My kenmore 90 series washing machine will not spin. It makes all of the sounds, but it will not spend. Can you help

  • Anonymous Apr 30, 2009

    Have tub full of water. will not drain and stops and does nothing before it reaches the spin cycle.

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4 Answers

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  • Master
  • 5,911 Answers

This is the symptom of a defective lid switch. If you do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound when opening or closing the washer lid, more than likely the switch is broken or not making contact. Depending on what type of switch you have depends on how it is activated. Most washers have a switch located on the right-hand side of the lid with a slot. A plunger on the lid activates the switch when it closes. Make sure the switch is not loose (two mounting screws on the rim of the lid opening) or the plunger is not broken off. On some models, the lid switch is located on the left-hand side in the rear under the rim of the lid. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes this rod can be adjusted by bending it slightly. If you check everything and determine the switch is bad, it can be replaced by performing the following steps:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up.

Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments. A new lid switch should cost about $35.

Posted on Feb 05, 2008

  • 4 more comments 
  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Feb 05, 2008

    That means the lid switch is probably broken off and hanging inside the machine under the rim. There is no drain button on this model washer If the tub is full of water all you have to do is UNPLUG the washer and remove the casing. Locate the old lid switch by finding the connector plug under the console. When you unplug this connector, remove the portion of the connector that is mounted on the machine casing (NOT the console). Clip the white connector off, leaving a couple of inches of wire. Take the two BLACK wires and short them together using a wire lug. Clip the GREEN wire off flush with the connector. You now have effectively made a bypass switch for your lid switch. Plug this by-pass plug back into the lid switch connection on the console, plug the washer back in, set the timer knob to the spin cycle and pull the knob to start. The washer should now spin and drain on it's own.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Feb 05, 2008

    If you follow the instructions I gave you, it explains how to get the console open, and how to get the casing off the machine. DO NOT attempt to access from the rear of the machine. The washer is too heavy when it is full, and you're usually asking for trouble if you attempt to take the back panel off. It's actually much easier to open the washer by lifting the console, removing the retaining clips and lifting the entire casing off the frame. If done correctly, it takes abot 5 minutes to get inside the washer. The switch is mounted up under the rim of the lid, and still requires the casing to be removed in order to get better access to see what you are doing. This sounds intimidating, but it is actually an easy repair that almost anyone can do. If you don't wish to attempt, I fully understand, but you're going to pay about $125 or higher in labor costs alone, plus the price of the switch. Let me know if you need further guidance.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Feb 07, 2008

    Were you able to get your washer working?

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Feb 08, 2008

    Dublin, Ireland? Dublin, Ohio? Which Dublin are you talking about? Have you made sure you need putty knives to remove the console? If the console end caps come off, there is a philips screw under each side that needs loosened, and that's all. Just checking to see if this is the set up you have. Get back to em when you get the chance. Hope you feel better soon.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Feb 08, 2008

    The putty knives need to be placed in the seam between the console bottom and the washer top. If you place the putty knife in the front corner on each side and push in, there is a release clip that you will depress allowing the console to flip up. I am correct to assume that the heading at the top of the page is correct, right? This IS a Kenmore right? Let me know.

    Sorry...I'm not in California. I'm in NC.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Feb 10, 2008

    The brass clips were supposed to go back in place BEFORE you put the console back on. If you read step number 2 under the section following the switch installation in the instructions I provided, it says, " Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first,
    then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some
    force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in".

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  • 1 Answer

Hi everyone!

I have the same washer (kemore 90 series, 110...). First, thank you for the help. I followed your instructions - removed the console and hotwired the switch in attempt to get the washer to drain. Still no draining or spinning. I am headed to the store now to purchase a new switch but could it be any other reason for the washer not spinning or draining?

Thanks!

Posted on Jul 14, 2008

Hang em outside

Posted on Jun 05, 2008

Hi Thanks,
It worked for me as well. I had the same Kenmore 90 series wahser which was spinning / draining.

Thanks a bunch!

George

Posted on May 03, 2008

5 Suggested Answers

RescueTech
  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Washer 110.26912690 series 90

Hi Norm. Welcome to FixYa.
The first thing to check with the kind of symptoms your machine exhibits is the operation of the lid switch. Make sure that the pin/plunger on the lid itself has not broken off, and check the actuator lever on the switch itself. It is REALLY common on your model for the actuator arm to break off or crack, and this will cause no spin/no pump problems. Your machine is built by Whirlpool and the part number for the switch assembly is a 3849238. You can get it at any local whirlpool parts center in your area.

I hope you find this info helpful and thank you for allowing us to serve you.

Happy New Year from the FixYa crew!

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: 90 Series Kenmore Washer Not going to spin cycle not draining water

If the unit is still agitating as it is supposed to, this is usually due to a faulty lid switch.

Posted on Oct 25, 2008

  • 113 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 Series Washer

You have a broken lid switch. Its # ll in the diagram. Part # is 3949238. Let me know if you need info on how to replace it, Dave www.washermd.com
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Posted on Dec 17, 2008

  • 64 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 Series Heavy Duty Washer - Agitator doesnt spin

THIS IS A TYPICLE PROBLEM . BETWEEN THE MOTOR & THE TRANSMISSION THERE IS A COLLECTOR ASSEMBY (THREE PIECE
SET) REAL EASY TO GET TOO EASY TO FIX . ALSO COST EFFICENT

Posted on Sep 21, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore 90 series washer spin cycle noise

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.

8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.

9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. You may have to use a screwdriver to remove the old pieces. Inspect both halves of the coupling for signs of wear. Replace if necessary (part #285753A).

10. Uninstall the motor mounting plate from the gearcase by removing the two bolts.

11. Remove the agitator by removing the center cap. Locate the center nut under the cap and loosen with a socket and ratchet. Lift both portions of the agitator straight up, exposing the gearcase center shaft. Remove the agitator clip and agitator washer from the shaft. NOTE: If there is a recessed square slot under the agitator cap, use a 3/8 inch to ½ inch socket adapter with extender to remove.

12. Now take the washer and lean it backwards so that you have full access to underside of the washer. Loosen the three bolts holding the gearcase in place. When you get the last bolt, loosen slowly as the gearcase will begin to drop from under the washer. Slide the entire gearcase and shaft out of the washer.

13. Remove the clutch and brake assembly from the top of the gearcase by removing the retaining clip. Do not forget to retain the washer that is under the clutch.

14. Inspect new gearcase assembly. Open the breather hole (covered by a dab of paint) using an awl or similar tool. Install washer on gearcase shaft and install clutch and brake assembly. Slide gearcase shaft up through the agitator shaft from under the washer. Hold in place and get one bolt started. Insert remaining bolts and tighten them all evenly.

15. Insert new coupling by tapping one piece onto the transmission shaft with a hammer. Use a dowel or something solid to tap the center portion of the coupling until the opening of the coupling is flush with the shaft. DO NOT hit the prongs or they will break. Do the same for the Drive Motor. Make sure you place the coupling on the correct side of the motor. If you forget, remember that the electrical connections are on the RIGHT HAND SIDE of the motor and that the coupling goes on the REAR shaft of the motor.

16. Place the rubber bushing over the side of the coupler that is connected to the transmission. Rotate the bushing so one empty hole is facing up and the other two are facing down. Now, rotate the coupler on the motor so the prongs will line up with these holes. It's a little tricky trying to get them to line of sometimes. I usually place the lower retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.

17. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.

18. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.

19. Re-install agitator washer and retaining clip on the gearcase drive shaft and then re-install agitator. NOTE: DO NOT over-tighten center nut. You can crack or break the agitator.

20. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

21. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

22. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

23. Reinstall console.

It seems like a rather lengthy process, but it is a simple repair if you follow the instructions step-by-step. Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. I hope this information helpful.

NOTE: Under Line Item 10. - after you remove the motor mounting plate, make sure you disconnect the wiring harness from the the gearcase housing if it is mounted to it. Otherwise, you may damage the harness when you remove the gearcase assembly. Make sure you re-install the wiring harness in the fashion when repairs are completed.


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Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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