I have an LCD1912 monitor, which just failed this weekend. It was not plugged into a surge protector, and power was briefly lost. When power came on, the monitor did not.
This unit is out of warranty. I know that NEC/Mitsubishi or a 3rd party depot can repair it, but I was wondering if anyone has successfully repaired this unit before. It is a couple components (possibly transistors) on the power supply side of the unit.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.
Re: NEC LCD1912 LCD monitor, no power
More than likely, the power surge burned one of the small resistors on the power supply or secondary side of power out put card. This is not a hard repair to diagnose or to make but you will not want a novice to do it as you can do more harm than good if you are not qualified with a soldering iron and multitester. Better to take in for repairs, should not be that expensive from what you haev posted here to fix it.
a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
i believe you may have answered your own question here because what you are stating is a malfunctioned monitor if you plugged other monitors to the cpu and they worked and the monitor in question is not working maybe it was a storm surge and since it did not have a surge protector then maybe the monitor is shot and you may need to replace the monitor...
The power surge probably blew the fuse inside the tv, first check the fuse inside the mains plug, if that is good then you will have to take the back cover off the tv, you are looking for the power board follow the mains cable into the tv and you will find it. Look for a fuse on the board, pop it out of the fuse holder, if you have or can get hold of a multimetre check the fuse for continuity if it hasnt you will have get hold off another fuse, you can normally get them from your local electrical repair shop, they dont cost much and the liklyhood is they will probably give you one free of charge.
The issue might be that your monitor is not getting enough voltage to turn on properly.
If the monitor is plugged into a surge protector, remove it and plug it directly into the wall outlet. If the monitor works fine, the surge protector is not allowing enough power thru it for the monitor to work correctly - replace the power strip.
If there is no change, then your monitor is going out.
The STANDBY light will flash if the television detects an issue within the
television. Some of these issues can be resolved simply by following the steps
below to reset the television.
If the issue is still unresolved after following all of
the troubleshooting steps, service may be required. Please note the number of times the
STANDBY light flashes and relay that information to the service center.
Turn off the television.
Unplug the television power cord from the electrical outlet.
Let the television remain without power for 60 seconds.
Plug the power cord back into the electrical outlet.
NOTE: If the television is
plugged into a power strip or surge protector, remove it from the power strip or
surge protector and plug it directly into the wall outlet. If the issue is
resolved, the problem is with the power strip or surge protector and not the
I'm very sorry to hear about your unfortunate new's. I had the same problem in my own home maybe a week ago.
Basically if your power flickered on and off at anytime during this storm then there was a power surge that probably fried your TV. * First check the power where the tv was plugged in. Is it a power strip or a surge protector ? Surge protectors typically have an on/off switch and a separate reset push button.
If it is a power strip then the tv fried because there was nothing to stop it from happening (not even the fuse). If it was plugged into a surge protector then it could be quiet a few years old and not as reliable or the surge was to powerful for the limit on the surge protector.
The only thing you can do personally is send it in for repair if it's under warranty, if it is not then you can have it looked at by an authorized repair technician in your area. Troubleshooting should be fairly low, and you will at least be able to find out your options once they find the defected part.
Disconnect and reconnect both ends of the video cable (while the computer and monitor are both off). Also disconnect and reconnect the power cable. Is the power cable plugged into the same surge protector as the computer? And also try a different outlet on the surge protector for the monitor.
NEC Repair Services of course, where he would order the replacement part; but given you can't use them without a Service Contract (four figures; yet useful for a repair shop with a corporate client with lots of NEC equipment) the diagnosis you got sounds reasonable. Find the NEC Authorized repair specialist in town with a bench fee you like, or go shopping!
I like the idea of reusing the old thing as much as anyone; if you can find the make and version of the working components, you're welcome to use them in native mode (no need for the control/interfaces chip; a PIC or other microcontroller can be substituted), make a projector, use the supply and other functions with their control lines 'tied low' with 200 ohm resistors, etc. I would be inclined to think that the video amps and detection circuits at the inputs failed (in hopes of saving the interior components,) and just replace those after I had some success driving the test points to force it into an ON state; but a positive ID of a bad chip is not going to put high hopes on that fix. A fixable unit would usually start to come on, then trip off when a failed functional section (or absence of video) was detected by a working control circuit.