Just installed new ciruit breakers and the dryer runs but still will not heat up. What should I check next

Electric dryers have as many as three thermal fuses. See if you might have missed one. One next to coils, one next to drum and one near the lint trap at air outlet. All three have different trip settings.

indicates problem motor , overheating in the wiring or excessive loads in the drier

Your electric dryer uses110vac to run the motor which makes the drum turn. It uses 220vac to run the heating elements. I'll assume you had a qualified electrician add the new outlet. If not, I'm betting whoever did the install used the same electrical phase for both 110 sides of the plug. You can't use an electrical tester to test this as both sides will read the same. Manually trip the breaker (should be a double breaker) and then check the outlet. The wiring to the hot leads should be black on one phase and red on the other. Let me know what you find out

A burning smell from an electrical panel is never a good sign. You did what a lot of people will do, and have the same results - the problem won't go away.

The circuit breaker relies on the mechanical squeeze pressure of its metal clips to maintain solid electrical contact with the panel's bus bars. The problem is likely due to a poor connection between the circuit breaker and the panel board bus bars. Over the years, the load presented by the dryer has heated those points, weakening the metal clips, changing the metal conductivity in some cases due to pitting and arcing. Changing the entire panel is probably not required - especially if there are other unused spaces for a circuit breaker to be installed.

If this is the case, I would remove the new QO230 circuit breaker and install it in a previously unused space in the panel, instead. The bus bar here should be undamaged (since it was never used before), as would be the new circuit breaker contact clips. The damage has been done to the bus bars at the original location, and that space should never be used again. The same holds true for the old QO230 circuit breaker. Install SQD blank plates in the panel cover to keep fingers from getting inside.

Next, a current reading should be taken with an ammeter or amprobe. A 30 amp breaker should have no more than 24 amps on each wire connected to it. If yours is more than that, something is wrong. If it is not more than 24 amps, measuring the voltage at the breaker and the dryer plug should be done as well. The voltage at the plug should not be more than about 3% lower at the plug.

If there is no more room in the panel, a secondary panel can be installed adjacent to and fed from the original panel, space permitting. Move the dryer circuit to the new panel and any two adjacent poles of circuits (for a 240 volt feed). The dryer circuit breaker space will be abandoned and the two additional poles will be fitted with a new QO circuit breaker to supply the new panel. Your electrician should do this work for you. This is "permit required" work and must be inspected for your safety.

I hope this helps and good luck. Please rate my reply. Thank you.

check your circuit breaker you have to have 220 volts before it will heat however it will run with 110volts but not heat

Check your breaker. An electric dryer works on 220 volts, which is two 110 volts put together, but on separate lines. Those breakers have to be separated all the way from the transformer. So, if you have one breaker for the dryer, you will be okay, usually on a double pole, double throw breaker. Sometimes they are wired into two different breakers. The motor is on one breaker, and the heating element is on the other breaker. So, if they aren't on a breaker that is made as a double unit, the heating element can trip one breaker, and since they aren't made together as a unit where it will shut the whole dryer down, the motor in the dryer will still run, and the drum will still turn. It just won't dry clothes. Now, if you have made sure your power is ok, which i have no way of knowing if you just moved there, you had the dryer working in that spot for fifteen years, or what. So, if you have had it there for a while and it runs and it does not dry, and the breakers aren't tripped, then you need a new heating coil in the dryer. They burn out, just like toasters go bad, they work on the same principle. It is not that hard to replace one, just look at how the old one is before you remove it, and install the new one in the same way.

First, with the unit not running, check to make sure the fan spins freely. Next check the capacitor. You can do that with a multimeter or look at it and if it looks swollen then it is most likely bad. Replace it with one of the same rating. If the capacitor is good then use an ohmmeter to check the fan motor windings. Also check the condition of your contactor and make sure the ciruit breakers are closed and the fuses are good. The breakers should be off before you check the capacitor, fan motor, and contactor.

most dryers have a thermal switch or breaker in the cavity somewhere, they can become worn over time and will stop heating, the item probably looks like a copper arm that touches a contact similar to a old morse code key by looks

sounds like the start windings in the motor have failed you will need a new motor to repair this.