Question about Frigidaire FGF378AC Gas Kitchen Range

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Loud clicking sound does not stop

Range is no more than 1.5 years old. Used rarely. Turned on broiler and there was a loud clicking that did not stop. Flames of broiler worked. Burners light and function. Clicking did not stop. Unplugged the stove. Clicking stopped when unplugged. Left unplugged overnight. When plugged in again clicking resumed. Sound is similar to a starter click, but does not stop.
Any suggestions. Does not make me want to buy more Frigidaire products.

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The igniter circuit is stuck the circuit that controls this is shorted out and you cannot likely fix this. The controlling scr transistor is bad. its on the main board. It happens

Posted on Feb 03, 2008

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We have never used the broiler in the one year that we've had the FGGS3045KF so of course it is just past the 1 year mark when we try the broiler will not light.


I appreciate your inquiry, Teril!

From my understanding the broiler will not light inside of your Frigidaire range, FGGS3045KF. The igniter might be bad or need to be cleaned. In order to access your igniter to review what kind of condition, it is in, you would need to disassemble your range. This is not a simple DIY job and I would highly recommend seeking assistance from a professional technician for proper disassembly. This will help to avoid any future issues or personal injury. -Matt

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As oven probes age, they can sometimes generate error codes on kitchen ranges and render them inoperative. The error code varies between models, but can be found with the technical documentation that comes with your range. Most manufacturers place a tech sheet somewhere along the back of the range, or inside the console for qualified technicians to use as a troubleshooting aid. Refer to this if an “F” code is displayed on your operator console. The probe may also exhibit other symptoms without generating an error code. You could have undesired heating results (too hot or too cold), or slow preheat times.

The location of the oven probe can vary on different models as well. It will be mounted on the back or side of the oven wall (usually in the upper right or upper left corner). If you suspect you have a bad oven probe, a resistance check can be performed to determine if the probe is good. To accomplish this, unplug the range and remove the back panel. There are still dangerous voltages present even when the oven is not on. There will be two heat insulated wires coming from the oven probe behind the oven. Disconnect the wires and perform a resistance reading across both wires at room temperature. If the probe is good, it should read around 1100-1200 ohms*. If the reading is too low (shorted) or too high (open), replace it. However, I would take a good look at the interconnecting wiring FIRST. If you have a connector plug on the oven probe, often the plug pins will oxidize and not make good contact. This gives false readings and can lead to erroneous error codes. Some manufacturers recommend cutting the connector plug off completely and hardwiring the leads together by using heat resistant ceramic wire lugs. This provides a more permanent and reliable connection. The lugs can be purchased at most hardware stores. A new oven probe roughly costs about $35 - $45 and can be found on line at several appliance parts websites. Higher end model prices may be more.

To replace the oven probe, simply remove the mounting screw from inside the oven cavity, disconnect the wires and pull the probe out. Insert the new probe by feeding the wires through the opening in the back of the oven first and out the back through the insulation (a long screwdriver can assist you in making a visible hole through the heat insulation to feed the wires easier). Once you have the wires through the back of the oven, reinsert the mounting screw and connect the wires leads together. Reinstall back panel.

*NOTE: Keep in mind resistance readings will be higher if the probe is hot. Make sure you check the temperature at room temperature.

I hope this information is helpful..

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