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Check your user manual, but for my whirlpool it says: If the buttons are inside the fridge, push the FAST COOL and MOISTURE CONTROL buttons at the same time for 3 seconds. Once cooling comes back on, your previous settings will reappear on the display. If the buttons are on the outside of the fridge (as mine are), push the FREEZER TEMP and FRIDGE TEMP buttons at the same time for 3 seconds. Same result as above. Hope that helps.
It comes on when there has been a power interuption to warn of a possible thaw of food or that the inside temp was high, it will correct itself within 24 hours or you can push the reset button beside the light to cancel.Please let me know if this works
Some of these had problems with the door light switches between the doors. They also control the fans. The top and bottom both have fans in back. Try opening top door and holding door light switch in. Wait for a couple minutes to see if fan comes on. Try with freezer too. If not coming on may need switch.
Most refrigerators cycle on and off based on the fresh foods temp. If the ambient temp is 10C and you have it set for 4C, the unit does not have to run much to satisfy the temperature control, and the temp in the freezer section will warm to + C range. (likewise, if the ambient drops to -C range, it won't mater if you set the fresh food section to +4C, it won't heat the air, and the fresh food section will eventually reach the -C ambient temp.) The only solution is to move the appliance to a warmer location or heat the room it is in. This is the only Fix-Ya for your refrigerator.
The fridge thermostat is faulty and not cutting in
at the required temperature. Fridge stats are not easy to test, so the
best way is to bypass the stat to see if the compressor starts. To
bypass the stat first unplug the appliance and remove the stat housing
from inside the fridge compartment, once you have removed the housing
you will see the stat inside. Some stats have 2 terminals some have 3,
whatever yours has you will need to connect the compressor wire (
Black) to the live wire (Red or White). When you have bypassed the
stat plug the appliance back in and switch on, if the fridge starts up
and runs ok you will need to purchase a new stat.
Same Guest as above posting this ... By the way, I have a FLSC238DS5 ... I spent 45 minutes on phone w/Frigidaire this afternoon (Phone#: 706-860-4110 Option 1 --> then Option 3). Didn't get anywhere. They say there are 3 solutions that should change it from C to F: 1) In between LED readouts for "Freezer Temp" and "Fresh Food Temp" there is a mode button that is hidden under the plate that you can press w/your finger OR 2) Hold "Fresh Food Temp" Up Arrow Key down, within 5 Seconds press "Freezer Temp" Up Arrow Key 3 times and it should change C to F or vice verse. Didn't work for me so she said 3rd option was to have a service tech come and diagnose. She said there would be a charge. I am not paying to have somebody come here to resolve this issue. That is when I asked her to escalate it to a supervisor which she did. Hopefully, I get a call back & a solution. Stay tuned ...
I just went through this with my refridgerator and actually posted one of the questions. Here is what I found ........
In the freezer compartment behind the panel there is an evaporator fan which pulls cold air from the freezer and pushes it up into the refrridgerator compartment. If the fan is not working it is one of three things.. 1) there is so much frost in the fan area the fan blade is stopped and cannot push the cold air into the refridgerator compartment or the air channel is blocked. 2) there is no electricity going to the fan (usually tied to the door switch of the refirdgerator compartment, and 3) the motor is dead and will have to be replaced.
Solution to #1 - defrost but there is another problem in the "frost-free" part of the system which must be addressed or the frost will return and it will happen again in the future.
Solution #2 - check to see there is power to the fan. (most are 110VAC but some are 100VDC. Use a meter and check)
Solution #3 - If there is power, the motor is dead. Replace the motor. Be aware that AC and DC motors are different and replace per manufacture's specifications.
I think I know what is wrong. First the defrost thermostat you are talking about I believe is the round metal type with possibly a pink and an orange wire coming out of it. That is not the defrost thermostat as most people know it. That is a defrost overheat termination thermostat that opens only over 140 degrees F, that is why your old good one and your new good one show closed at room temp. If you read on the outside of the metal cover you will find it has a L140 indicating the limit of 140 deg.
Now to what should be causing your problem. You should find on the evaporator coil at the top left side of the evaporator coil a part that has 2 white wires going into what looks like about a 1" long X 1/4" round plastic thing. That little white plastic thing is a THERMISTOR. If it is bad your defrost will not work. Sounds like that is the only thing you have not replaced. There is no polarization of the wires That should FixYa supertechks