I recently went to bake and found that there is no power to either element in my oven. I baked a few weeks ago without incident. Pressing bake on the panel and setting a temp is all as usual, however, when it switches to preheat and actually turns on the oven (usually accompanied by a pronounced click from within the panel) nothing happens. I think the click is a large amperage relay within the panel that is no longer functioning. My ? is, do I have to replace the entire top panel or is the oven relay a separately replaceable part? Or if someone with more experience than myself knows I'm way off-base then by all means any help is appreciated.
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Re: Oven will not power up.. relay does not engage
Hello wallywhol the panel usually has to be replaced. My suggestion is to pull out the range, unplug, then remove the back panel. You can now trace the wiring from the elements to where they connect. If you have a meter, you can plug the range back in and check voltage. There should be between 208 to 240 volts at the elements. If there is a bake relay not on the board, then it can be replaced seperately.
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Usually what they mean by "hidden" element means that the bake element sits in a recessed part of the oven cavity. You only have one bake element and one broil element in the oven. Hope this helps.
Yes, it is very possible that when the bake element burned out, it may have shorted out to the case of the oven, and burned up the relay on the control board. If you have a voltmeter (and feel comfortable in doing this), remove the back of the oven, and measure the voltage across the bake elements when you set the oven to some bake temperature. Be careful, you are dealing with 240 volts AC here! IF you don't have any voltage anywhere near 240 V while on bake, then you probably have a bad electronic oven control. If you have just 120 volts, then check your voltage at your power cord or (better) at the junction box at the back of the range. You should have 120 volts from the center (white or green) wire to either the red or black wire; and 240 volts from the red to the black wire. Now IF you have 240 volts across the terminals of the bake element, then you may have gotten the wrong bake element (wrong wattage - lower watts than the original). Maybe you ordered the wrong one, or maybe they put the wrong one in the box.
HI. The actual issue will be with the main logic board, which is where the main element control relays are mounted. These very important relays are damaged. The main board will need to be replaced, asap.
With that said, if you could be so kind; Please post the entire model number so that i may pull up all necessary part numbers needed, as well as, service manual links and diagrams to help with your repair.
Be sure you have 230 volts across the red and black wires at the terminal block the power cord attaches to. I suspect you have only one line to the range.
It is simpler to check a portion of the range first. Go to the relay board for the bake and broil elements. Check for incoming voltage between the red and black wires. You should have 230 volts all the time.
Set the oven control to bake at 350 degrees and check between the yellow and black wires that go to the bake element. You should have 230 volts. If you have 0 volts, check between the yellow wire that goes to the bake element and the black wire that goes to the terminal block of the range. If you have 230 volts here, the DLB relay on the relay board is bad. This will prevent bake and broil from working.
We can go through the relay board for the cooktop. I think it is best to eliminate one problem at a time.
Sounds like you have it figured, need to spend some moola..........
You can ohm out the sensor to the oven should be about 1100 ohms at room temperature.((the sensor is the little rod with two wires attached to it sticking in the oven, as temps change resistance changes which is read by the board) The upper and lower oven sensors are probably the same,you could just swap them to test, but probably not necessary,might also be confusing if you do not do a lot of testing on a regular basis. Remember to unplug unit for safety.
The bake element if it was not bad should be about 20 ohms, bad would read open........
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
To find service information for your Maytag Model go tothis link http://www.servicematters.com/
When on this site, click on Maytag Historical Service Library.
Then click on Maytag Service Library.
Click on term and conditions
Click on Literatur by Model
Enter Modle number MER 6772
You will be able to print or download the service manual for your model
Your problem may be the bake relay on the clock or wiring.
Sounds like the oven control which is the clock is bad. The relay for the bake element has probably gone bad and will need to replace the control. You should check continuity on the bake element. If it shows resistance then it is ok. Also, on some models the overlay for the oven control is a separate part. If it is you will need to buy it also.