Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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Kenmore Series 70 won't spin

Washer runs all cycles but after water pumps out it will not spin either during rinse or final. I tried pushing timer button in after water drain, as was suggested, but it makes no difference. During testing it spun 1 time but when I activated lid switch it stopped as it was suppose to and now will not spin. Have bypassed switch to no avail.

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  • cdj38 Feb 03, 2008

    I do believe it is a task I can perform. If you would be so kind as to supply the brains I will supply the brawn.

  • Fat Farmer Feb 03, 2008

    Same problem only grinding noise when in spin cycle.

  • cdj38 Feb 07, 2008

    Took about 20 min to do. Coupler is in great condition. Holes on both sides are still nice and round and coupler feels solid. Ready to move on.

  • cdj38 Feb 09, 2008

    Takes longer to read how to do things than the actual doing. Thanks so much for your instructions. I would have quit this several steps ago from frustration without your guidance. I have all parts out and cleaned. Picked up my clutch kit yesterday on the way home and am ready to proceed.

  • cdj38 Feb 09, 2008

    Assembly went easier than disassembly. Maybe because parts look a little familiar. Had to spray unit like you suggested. Sprayed with a silicone spray. Washer is up and running again. Thank you for your instruction.

  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2014

    I need to run test but I do not have no spin or rinse/hold buttons

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Jimster's advise had me fixing the problem in less time than it took to get the parts. He saved me untold headaches from the wife's nagging and several hundreds of dollars from buying a new machine. All in all the repair took about 15 minutes (give or take).
Thanks you so very much Jimster, you are the man!!!!
Fat Farmer

Posted on Feb 12, 2008

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Sounds like you have got a basket drive and sub-pack issue. These are very hard to change out because it requires you to remove the inner basket, motor, transmission, agitator, pump, etc. The part number for these are:

Clutch Kit (Sub-Pack): 285785
Basket Drive/Spin Tube: 285792

If you think your up to the task, let me know and will send you some general info on getting the stuff in and out. Good Luck!!!!

Posted on Feb 03, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • James Greene
    James Greene Feb 07, 2008

    Ok, to the user that has the grinding noise, you probably have a motor coupler issue. You can follow along and I will tell you when to stop. CDJ38, if you dont mind, we can do this in sections, that way you dont get to far ahead, and I dont get a brain freeze. When you get done with one, write me back, and we'll move it on to the next if thats ok with you.



    First off: UNPLUG UNIT AND TURN OFF WATER SUPPLY PLEASE



    CDJ38 and Fat Farmer, 1st step:



    Remove the caps from the ends of your console (covers on front on either end, they just pop off. If you see scres already, skip this part). Remove the two console hold down screws, then carefully pull the console out slightly at the bottom, then when it disconnects, flip it up and over the top of the washer back plate (it should be on hinges, and should open like a door). You will see a set of wires running through the top of the cabinet, unplug this plug (this wire harness is for the lid switch, in case you ever have one go out). After this, remove the two gold hold down clamps that you see on either end of the top. Place a screwdriver in the front of these clips, and unclip them. They swing up and disconnect from the rear panel. Now that these are removed, open your lid slightly, then swing the cabinet top towards you, let the bottom slide out a little, then remove the whole cabinet. You should now be to the inside of the unit (yeeee-hawww). Down below, you will see a grey, or white pump, a motor, etc, etc. There are two small clips that hold the pump to the motor. Unclip these, then swing the pump to the left, and with a long handled screwdriver, have it held in place to the small hole in the base. Be sure to check the inside of the pump around the shaft input area for very dirty area, or wet areas. If this is the case, save yourself a lot of time, and just replace the pump (3363394 part number). Next, remove the wiring harness from the motor (unclip) and cdj38, remove the harness from the transmission as well. You will see two screws holding two clips to the motor. These will be 5/16" or 1/4" screws. Remove these two screws, then starting at the bottom, remove these clips by placing a small screwdriver in the top, and popping the clips out. Slide the motor out, making sure you keep up with the four rubber grommets that attach the motor to the mounting plate. Inspect the motor coupler assembly for wear (rubber drive area wore, prongs on either end snapped, or either the transmission or the motor shaft drive units are loose. Part number for this coupler is 285753A, and in either case, I would replace (cheap and easy). Ok, let me know how you come out, and we will continue. Please let me know the condition of you couplers when you say your ready to move on to the next step (Fat Farmer, your just about done if your coupler is broken). Talk to you soon!!!!

  • James Greene
    James Greene Feb 07, 2008

    Ok, lets go from here. Back to the top of the unit (Fat Farmer doesnt need this, will tell you where to pick up). Remove the top ring by placing you fingers under the latch slots around the top, pop them loose, then lift off ring and remove. Remove cap off top of agitator, then remove the screw (bolt) that holds it in place. You may find a round plastic cap that has small like handles on the sides that covers the bolt, if so, remove this by lifting up. If you have an auger type top, try to keep this on top of the bottom agitator to save some time later. Put your fingers underneith the agitator, and lift it off the shaft. At this point, you might see a plastic ring and a small metal clamp on the very top of the shaft, remove these if you do. This next part might give you a little trouble without the special tool, but it can be done. You will see a round type spanner nut on top of the drum center post. Remove this by taking a hammer and a small chisel to tap around in a counter-clockwise position to remove the spanner nut. At this time, the inner drum should come free. If not, place your foot in the bottom of the inner drum, and try to break it loose with a couple of firm kicks to the bottom of the drum. After removing the drum, you will see a drive block (the same peice the spanner nut came off) inside this, on the top, you will see two small like flanges going in to the drum block. They should be nice and square, not rounded off. If they are warped, rounded, or worn, replace the drum block (part # 389140). Flip the machine against the wall again, and with (I believe) a 1/2" socket, remove the two bolts that hold the motor mounting plate to the transmission. Next, the same type bolts (3) hold the transmission to the washer base. Remove these three bolts (2 in front, 1 center in rear). I would suggest you remove the one in the rear first, then which ever one would be the easiest to get to, save for last. Upon taking out the last bolt, your transmission will start to slide out of the center post. You may have to move the unit around a little to clear the floor. After removing the transmission, set it aside. Up in that area that you removed the transmission shaft, you should see a plastic type twist arm made onto a clutch type structure. Twist that plastic arm enough to be able to slide the basket brake assembly and center drive post down and out. On top of the transmission, you will see the round clutch drive parts. It will have a clutch looking part etc, etc. To remove this, you will see a washer down in the center, slide the washer off, then remove the e-clip, then pop that retainer ring off, then slide the whole clutch assembly off the shaft. Follow the instrctions that came with your clutch kit (matching springs, etc) and let me know when your ready to move on from there. Talk to you soon.

  • James Greene
    James Greene Feb 09, 2008

    Ok, here we go with reassembly. Follow instructions on which spring to use to go back in your new clutch and basket drive. Be sure the spring caps are on the end of each if required. Slide your new clutch pack down on the transmission, with the clutch pads up, be sure they lock into the four tabs, the reinstall the clip holder (put the end in the whole, then with a screwdriver just swing the others in until it locks), then slide your e-clip back into the shaft spots, then put your washer back on top. Slide your new basket drive assembly back into the unit (you may have to twist the plastic are to get it to go in, once releasing the arm, it should stay in place), then slide your transmission back up into place. While holding it, place one (the easiest one) bolt back in and get it snug. Place the other bolts in place and tighten. Put your motor mount plate back on, and snap your wiring harness holder back into position. Lets go ahead and finish down bottom while your here. Be sure all four grommets are mounted to the motor and reinstall motor, being sure your motor switch is pointing right (as your looking at it). Place the motor coupler drive rubber onto the transmission coupler. Kind of eyeball the motor coupler so that it will mess into the empty holes of the drive rubber (you may have to twist a little to get it to lock). Place the TOP motor holder strap in its hole, and snap the holder in place, then place your bottom holder and snap it into place. Replace the two safety screws back into there positions. Next, remount your pump, being sure that the sqaure cuts match the cuts on the motor shaft, and the four legs are in the proper position on the motor. Reclip the pump in place, then re-attach your motor wiring harness. You should now be done with the bottom side (and the hard side). Set your washer back down on all feet. While you are here, on eack side of the washer, down at the bottom where the cabinet will sit, you will see four small flanges, one on each corner front and back. Be sure these are all pointing straight up, and are not bent or damaged. This will make putting the cabinet back on easier. Also, take a pair of pliers, needle-noise, etc, and look under the cabinet itself. You will see the four holes where those flanges go. LIGHTLY bend the area around the four holes downward. This will ensure the washer doesnt squeek when reassembled. Ok, back to the job at hand. Take you basket block, and set it back down on top of the shaft inside, being sure that the two extrusions lock into the tab holders. Tap it down lightly to ensure a good setting. Be sure your inner and outer basket are clean, then set the inner drum back down onto the basket driver block. Resecure the spanner nut, and tighten the best you can without messing it up. Reinstall any componants that came off, then reinstall the agitator assembly. Be sure you only tighten the agitator hold down bolt just snuggly. Place your top ring back on top, being sure that the bleach dispenser tray is in the right position, then push down and snap all the hold down tabs into place. Ok, now to the cabinet (if you have any parts left over that were not replaced, tell me now before putting the cabinet back on, I am doing this by memory, so tring not to have that happen haha). If you have no left over parts, grasp the cabinet from under the lid, then at about a 30-40 degree angle, reinstall the cabinet (watch through the top, the flange at the bottom front of the cabinet should slide under the washer frame. Lower the cabinet, making sure you pull the back of the washer towards you to clear the water break. Make sure all four holes on the cabinet are in place, you may have to run your fingers underneith the unit to be sure of this. You can lock one side down with the gold clips, then work on the other side. Be sure your gold clips get locked into the rear of the washer back. After both clips are back in, BE SURE TO RECONNECT YOUR LID SWITCH WIRING. Fold down your dash, place the screws back into, and tighten lightly, then reattach your caps (if on this model), and test out. Congragulations, you have now done one of the hardest jobs to do on a Whirlpool or Kenmore top load. If when testing out, when you test the brakes, if it feels like the basket is stopping to fast, or a loud clunk and shake, tilt the unit back, and spray a small amout of WD-40 (or any spray lube) onto the BASKET DRIVE brake area. That was the unit you slid up into the washer, and test again. Let me know if you have any need or information. Get back to me to see if I still have a clue of what im doing, and how it came out. Talk to you soon!!!!

  • James Greene
    James Greene Feb 10, 2008

    Outstanding, outstanding. Great job. You now know about just as much as a Sears Tech hahahaha. Great job, let me know if you need anything else at all. Once again, great job. Jim

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