My Euro-Pro Shark 473 was bunching the thread under the fabric when sewing and also wrapping the thread around the shuttle driver. The Euro-Pro website states that the upper thread is probably threaded wrong, but I followed the instructions verbatim and had sewed one seam on the fabric with no problem, but when I tried to sew the next seam, this occurred. I removed the shuttle driver cleared the thread that was around it and replaced the bobbin, but now the needle is not picking up the bobbin thread. The website states that for that problem, a technician should check it out since the timing was probably forced (whatever that means). I paid less than $100 for the machine and haven't used it more than three times in the past two years. I hate to incur an expense like this after such short usage. Has anyone dealt with this problem before and fixed it on their own?
I had the exact same problem. The timing is off. You can actually fix this yourself all you need is an allen wrench. If you look at the rod the needle is inserted into and follow it up to about 2 inches below the top of the machine there should be a clamp. use the allan wrench to loosen the clamp and adjust the needle height. I used this website as a guide to getting the timing correct. http://www.sewusa.com/Sewing_Machine_Repair/Repair_Pictures/timing1.gif
now if only I could figure out why my thread keeps getting jammed under the bobbin!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The size of needle is fine for sewing on denim so unless the needle is bent (and even so) I doubt that is the problem. Breaking upper thread typically has more to do with the threading, ie wrapped around some place along the way or misthreaded somehow, of even if you somehow got knots or that it has somehow got thread around the spindle for the spool. So first recheck the threading. Best to do by simply totally unthreading it, looking closely at the spool and winding and then rethreading it again. Make sure your upper tension hasn't been accidentally tightened too.
Next check the bobbin and bobbin thread. First pull on the thread. Is it pulling real tightly or does it flow out readily? Take the bobbin out and look at it. Check the tension also. Is it too tight? That too can cause the upper thread to break.
Is the needle penitrating the material smoothly? Again examine the needle closely to see if it's developed a burr. Better yet just swap the needle with a new needle and try it.
The majority of the time it is one of these things that will cause the top thread to break.
make sure there is a 3-5 inch tail on bobbin thread
make sure there is a 3-5 inch tail on top thread, then hold the top thread tail with your fingers (away from the needle) & with your other hand turn the hand wheel manually on the right side of the sewing machine,, slowly letting down the needle down into the bobbin area & see if the bobbin thread will pick up this way
Try flipping the bobbin spool so the thread comes off in the other direction.
Forcing means that the needle has been jammed against the sewing plate ant the needle is now out of timing with the bobbin pickup.
Hi, Usually wrap-ups in the bobbin area are caused by the lack of tension on the top thread. The slack arm ( shinny lever that moves up and down while sewing) has to pull the loop around the bobbin case and it does so only if the tension on the top thread is sufficient to keep it from pulling more thread of the spool.
Try this: Thread the top of the machine all the way just short of the needle eye. When the presser foot is up the thread should pull through easily. Now drop the presser foot (this closes the tension discs) and pull the tread while adjusting the upper tension control.
If everything is working correctly you should feel the drag on the thread change if not something is keeping the discs from closing.
Most Janomes aren't too difficult to remove the nose cover, usually just one screw and you can get a look at the thread path. Look for thread wrapped around the mechanism.
Sorry, no easy answer but I hope this helps.