Question about Mitsubishi WS-65857 65" Rear Projection Television

3 Answers

Power loss turn tv on it shuts right back off green light comes on for five seconds and shuts right back off any sugestions Hello, I have a Mitsubishi WS-65857 TV that stopped working, I have changed the Convergence chips, the TV still has the same problem. I can turn it on and hear Audio, but the lamps never iluminate and the TV turns off after about 6 to 10 seconds. I have checked all the internal fuses and they are good. Does anyone know what I should try to change next...or where I should be checking for a voltages. Thanks, SoDak.

Posted by on

  • 8 more comments 
  • SODAK Feb 03, 2008

    Sir,

    I checked Diode D5a52 and it was shorted, so I pulled it out and cheked it...when it was out of circuit it tested good.

    I then Pulled out Q5A31 and found it was shorted across all leads. I checked other tranistors and Q5A01 was also shorted across all leads. Do think replacing those two items will sort me out or is this just a sign to bigger problems?

    Thanks

    Sodak

  • SODAK Feb 04, 2008

    Sir,

    I feel as if you have spoon fed me enough good informaiton already, but after ordering the transistors from Electronix it became appartent that they do not carry the correct diode that is needed... the part I am still looking for is diode byv26e ph. When I call Electronix this morning they told me that if did a search for that diode and didn't get a match then they did not have a suitable replacement.

    Since you probably work on TV's for a living I was hoping that you may know of a suitable replacement for this diode? Or a good place to buy one, thanks

    SoDak

  • SODAK Feb 05, 2008

    Slinteriors,

    No worries on the Diode, I found all the parts and have ordered them. I hope to have good news for you over the weekend.

    Regards,

    SODAK

  • SODAK Feb 07, 2008

    Just waiting for the parts to arrive. I hope to have them by the weekend.

  • SODAK Feb 07, 2008

    Guys,

    I got the parts in today, installed them, turned on the TV and everything appeared to be working great...however after about 3 minutes the sides started to collapse towards the center of the screen and then the TV shut down again.

    I felt the convergence chips and they were not hot, but the C5418 tranistor horizontal output Q5A31 was smoking hot and the diode is shorted again.

    Now when I plug the TV in I get 3 very fast blinks from the green power light and the TV won't come on.

    I think we must be getting close, What do you think is blowing out the horizontal output Q5A31?

    BTW, when the TV did come on for 3 minutes the picture looked GREAT!

  • SODAK Feb 09, 2008

    Gents,

    Do you think I should replace the high voltage splitter...is there a way to test it, or should I buy one on ebay for $29 and see if that does the trick.

    If you think I should try something else before buying a High Voltage Splitter, please let me know.

    I am not too concerned about the money and am more interested in learning how to fix these things it is a fun hobby.

    Thanks,

    Sodak

  • SODAK Feb 09, 2008

    Gents,

    I checked all the connections on the Xray and high voltage, everything looked good but I reseated all the High voltage cables.

    IC5A03 is not shorted and R5A73 is not open.

    I checked the windings on T5A31 and they both read 17K ohms.

    Also Important to note that I then Pulled out Q5A31 and found it was shorted across all leads. I checked other tranistors and Q5A01 was also shorted across all leads...so it looks like what ever is bad has taken out the same components again.

    Someone suggest the power splitter, do you think that is a good next step? As mentioned when the TV worked for 3 to 5 minutes the picture looked Awesome.

    Thanks

    SODAK

  • SODAK Feb 09, 2008

    I put in all the parts and the TV worked Great for about 5 minutes then it turned off again and the same parts are blown...I am now trying to figure out what is blowing the HOT and the other transistor.

    I will have to order new parts next week...but would like to know what else I needs to be replaced so that I won't blow the same parts...someone said maybe the High voltage splitter?

  • SODAK Feb 10, 2008

    Would you recommend replaceing them both, or do you have an easy way to test these items?

  • SODAK Feb 11, 2008

    Guys,

    There is still hope for this TV. I went to order new parts today, because the other ones went bad again, and realized that the blown HOT was part # C5148....and I ordered a C5418!

    The company is now sending me a new C5418 and NTE36, and appoligized for there mistake. I hope to have good news later in the week. Thanks for your support.

    SODAK

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3 Answers

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  • Master
  • 1,894 Answers

Hello

Posted on Feb 02, 2008

  • 3 more comments 
  • dewan nafees ahmed Feb 02, 2008

    there are several things that need to take place for the lamp to turn on. first the color wheel needs to turn on ( if you can hear a whinning noise then this is fine) next the tv will send a signal to the lamp ballast to turn on, and the ballast needs the 130v dc supply from the power board ( simoly remove the lamp and reinstall the lamp door, turn tv on, and if you hear an arcing noise from the ballast you know this is fine too. the board that controls all of this is the dmd board. so if the color wheel works, ballast starts then i would replace the dmd board....
    the lamp is bad. a quick way to check is to put your ear close to the bak of the set by the lamp door and have someone turn on the set. if you hear an arcing sound each time the set cycle, then the lamp is bad..the number for the lamp is on a small sticker on the side of the set by the lamp door. it is easily replaced and the instructions come with the new lamp..you would be best to get an original lamp from Mitsubishi but there are replacements on the web

  • dewan nafees ahmed Feb 03, 2008

    well then first of all replace those two components.

    all trouble shooting is a step by step process. if one stage not solvews you u move to next stage.

    just pray to god and keep moving.

    you may get fixed at a starting stage itself.

  • dewan nafees ahmed Feb 05, 2008

    cool.

  • dewan nafees ahmed Feb 05, 2008

    worked?

  • dewan nafees ahmed Feb 09, 2008

    what happened?

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  • Expert
  • 123 Answers

Hi,
      The set has gone into protection overload status.

You must unplug the power cord for 3 or 4 hours and power it up again.

If the hard reset above does not bring it back to life it needs technical service. There are about 10 sections that would need to be checked to see where the overload conditions are causing the problem.

As a general rule this type of failure is severe and expensive. Typical costs of repair are always over $200 and most often closer to $400.

Common failures are main power supply, high voltage supply, deflection amplifiers and so on.

This is not a user or home remedy type repair. If you are lucky it may be something not so costly, but experience tells otherwise.

Hope this helps.

Good Luck
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Posted on Feb 02, 2008

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  • PRIYABRAT  PATTANAIK
    PRIYABRAT PATTANAIK Feb 02, 2008

    Unplug the power cord and let is stay OFF for about 2 or 3 hours. Then power it up again and see what happens. This is what we call hard reset. It works to bring the set back to life in about 25% of occasions.

    If it does not help after the hard reset above then it will need to be looked at by a tech who knows how to navigate around a protection failure. The reason it won't come back on is because the protection circuit (and electronic, intelligent fuse) has detected a severe shorted condition somewhere within the set. It is usually the main power supply, the high voltage section or one of the deflection amplifiers. But, can be from other sections within the tv. That is why you must have some diagnosis completed to find the problem.

    Another cause, less frequent on this class of tv, is from bad or cold colder joints. You can check for this by just whacking the set vigorously with your hand or fist in an attempt to dislodge a cold solder joint. This may help, but don't hold your breath. If it does, look up and thank the stars in the heavens for smiling down upon you.

    Good Luck
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  • PRIYABRAT  PATTANAIK
    PRIYABRAT PATTANAIK Feb 02, 2008

    Check your's power transformer.

  • PRIYABRAT  PATTANAIK
    PRIYABRAT PATTANAIK Feb 02, 2008

    A turnoff as you describe is generally caused from current overload which sends the set into protection mode.

    This is a very common occurrence.

    FIRST: Give it a hard reset. Unplug the tv for a couple of hours, then try it again.

    SECOND: Whack it good with your hand or fist. Doing so will often reactivate a bad joint, connector or cold solder.

    THIRD: It may need servicing if the above two remedies bring nothing to the for.

    The cause is often a failure in the power supply, high voltage or deflection amplifiers. It is never from the same cause as other sets. Cost of repair can be from $100 to $400, depending on the final diagnosis.

    Hope this helps.

  • PRIYABRAT  PATTANAIK
    PRIYABRAT PATTANAIK Feb 02, 2008

    your problem will be solved

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  • Mitsubishi Master
  • 8,617 Answers

Check for 12v on Q5A33 110v on Q5A01 this feeds T5A31 that powers the CRT filaments make sure Diode DA52 isnt open and also check horizontal output Q5A31 for being shorted or open. let me know if you need any more info.

Posted on Feb 02, 2008

  • 5 more comments 
  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Feb 03, 2008

    I figured they would be shorted. replace the transistors but replace the Diode D5A52 as well as this usually can leak under power and take out the transistors. Electronix.com should have the parts you need.

  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Feb 04, 2008

    I will pull up the info on your set and post a substitute crossreference for your Diode

  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Feb 05, 2008

    glad to hear you found the diode. Good luck on your repairs.

  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Feb 09, 2008

    SELF- DIAGNOSIS INDICATE X-RAY. CHECK FOR PROPER SEATING OF CONNECTIONS TO AND FROM THE HIGH VOLTAGE BLOCK. ALSO CHECK FOR A SHORTED IC5A03 PART # 270P704010 AND AN OPEN R5A73 82K ¼ WATT OFF PIN 2 OF IC5A02 ON THE MAIN PCB. SUSPECT SHORTED WINDINGS OF T5A31 PART # 349P216010 ON THE MAIN PCB

  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Feb 09, 2008

    It could be the HV splitter or the Flyback itself burning up the transistors.

  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Feb 10, 2008

    there is really no way to check the splitter or flyback as they tend to fail under full operating condtions which is dangerous unless you have an isolation transformer.

  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Feb 11, 2008

    thats more than likely the problem your trans is higher rated than the one they sent you.

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