Our church has a 46 cubic foot Victory commercial freezer. 3 times the temperature has risen to about 60 degrees; the compressor continues to run but it will not recover. Each time a repairman comes out and says it does not need charging. After it is unplugged and replugged in, it seems to reset and work for a while. Each time we has lost between 500--1000 dollars worth of food. This freezer is about 4 years old.

I wouldn't think this is right. If that is the case, it is not holding the temperature well then.

Do you mean to go up to +36 degrees? If so, it just won't work correctly. The refrigerant is the wrong one to run at 36 degrees. The pressure on the "low" side of the compressor is so low that the compressor will starve for freon if you tried to change the thermostat to "warm" it up to +36. Also the defrost cycle would have to be disabled or it would jump to 50 or 60 degrees 4 times a day. It also has the wrong cap tube for that temperature. It could be done with a very expensive condensing unit changeout. Over the years I have seen a lot of people try it and nobody that I know have been succesful at it. It may be easier to find someone who wants to trade. After all a freezer is worth more dollars than a cooler. Good luck.

Start off by cleaning the condenser coils. If you get up on a step ladder or chair look for the radiator in front of a fan. This radiator gets hot when running. If the air flow is stopped by dust or grease in the coils ther freezer will not work properly. Be sure the fan is running also whenever the compressor is running. The next most common problem is that the inside coils are frozen over. Your unit must defrost 3 or 4 times per day. When the door is opened frost accumulates on the inside coils and will eventually cover the coils with ice if your defrost cycle is not working. If the coil freezes over the temperature will go up, the compressor will continue to run and it the temperature will continue to increase. Check the inside coils for ice. If there is ice, you will have to unplug the unit and let the ice thaw completely before restart. If the unit pulls down to 0 after restart, it was probably frozen over. If that is the case you will need to either increase the number of defrost cycles or verify that the defrost cycle is working. Try this and repost if that does not resolve your problems.

Both fans need to be running.

If what you say is accurate, I would look at either a weak compressor or and issue with the expansion device. (Cap tube, TXV)
What are your pressures and what freon are you using? Does the door(s) seal tight?

In most cases, an evap that freezes up is either an air flow problem or no defrost cycle. Older Hobarts have mechanical defrost time clocks. It could be locked up i.e., not running so no defrost cycle.
It could be coming out of defrost too early because the sensor that monitors the evap temp is not working properly.
The door could not be closing. If left cracked open, it will freeze up every time as unit never hits temp., keeps unit running. Warm air is seeping in and the moisture freezes on evap.
Lastly, the defrost heater(s) may not be working. Burned out, shorted, broken wire, etc.

Good luck and hope this helps.

The higher the number, the colder.

Check out "victory-refrig.com" for manuals, diagrams, etc.
Cap tube systems are "critical charge systems". Can be difficult to get right. You did not mention pressures that you had. The split on the evap vs.box temp is almost always 10 degrees for freezers. If you want a -10 box, your evap needs to be -20. As a general rule of thumb, you want the high side to be "ambient +30". This seems to work most every time. Your problem might be operations related. Them leaving the door open alot and so on. It could also be a problem with the evap fan or the control to it. It could also be that since there had been a problem with the unit, they are now constantly checking it. Could be checking during a defrost cycle. When your box is at 0 degrees, your pressure should be about a -10 and no less that a -15 degree for the evap. You may have to babysit this thing and see how far it will pull down. You may have a weak compressor. Also, I have had many Hobart freezers fail due to dirty condensers. This causes the oil in cap tube systems to gel and clog up the cap tubes. The only fix is replacing the cap tube. There are alot of variables here so be patient, it's not going to be a quick fix. One last thing, since R404A can fractionate, you really need to pull the charge out and weigh in the correct charge with virgin refrigerant. This will eliminate 2 things. 1, it will ensure the correct amount of refrigerant and, 2 no chance of having a poor mixture of refrigerant in the system causing inconsistant readings and performance.
Hope this helps. And remember, cap tube systems are performance measured by the amount of superheat just prior to the unit making temp and cutting off.

Condensor coil needs cleaning.

check condenser fans, if defective or running slow change it

if condenser fan is running, suspect a compressor with internal mechanichal problems, it will run but i can't guarantee how long, maybe a couple of weeks or days. if it's an copelamic compressor, it's going bad.