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If you look at the bottom arm you will notice an extension nozzle that comes up out of the center. If you block that from going up during the wash cycle with dishes then the water will not reach the top. This is what makes the top arm spin.
Hello. First, try to reset the control board. There are 2 buttons with arrows underneath. Press and hold them both for several seconds, maybe a little longer--this will perform a reset on the control board. See if that clears up the problem. Also, are there any lights blinking? Dishwashers will flash error codes(in binary format) by blinking certain lights in a pattern(i.e. The "sensing" light will blink 2 or 3 times, then the "cycle complete" light will blink 2-3-4 times--something like that) It could be any combination of lights depending on the component that has failed or has a problem. Components can be the drain pump, main wash motor, float switch(if present), heater circuit, inlet water valve, flood switch(if present), etc...
Check and see if during the heating cycle there is voltage to the element. If not, you will need to replace the control board/module. from serial number 41011 part no is c00143209, to serial no 41011 part no is c00143207
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Check your heating element..
A bad heating element causes many problems in dishwashers…
My Bosch dishwasher did the same thing. When the wash cycle starts, the dishwasher fills with water and then the heater is supposed to turn on to heat the water. If the water does not heat, then it will display 2H continuously. The heating element may be bad, but a more likely cause is with the control module. Bosch has a problem with the control module printed circuit (pc) board that powers the heater on many models. The solution requires some technical expertise and soldering skills. The details are explained in the document "Bosch dishwasher troubleshooting tips" on page 11. Download here Bosch recommends re-soldering the connection, which is a temporary fix. The problem is that the copper conductor (called a trace) on the circuit board is not wide enough to handle the current required for the heating element, and as a result the copper trace overheats, causing the solder to melt on the relay connection. The best solution is to remove the control module PC board and solder a short length of copper wire between the pins to prevent the overheating problem, as shown in the attached photo (magnified portion of PC board). I did this on my dishwasher and it has been trouble-free for over 3 years.
I would agree with you. Everything you say here certainly points to a faulty heating element. The original is fitted with two factory fitted clips so you may need to go to your local garage and get two jubilee clips as they don't usually come with the new element.
Test the heater element first. Each wire is connected to a terminal using a slip-on connector. Grasp the connector and pull on it firmly. DO NOT
pull on the wire itself. Pull only from the connector. You may decide
you need to use a pair of needle nosed pliers to help you.
Use your multimeter to test the heating element for continuity. Set the device to the ohms setting
x 1. Touch each meter probe to a terminal. You should receive a reading
somewhere in between infinity and zero. Because of the variety of makes
and models of dishwashers, it is quite difficult to say exactly what
the reading should be for each and every possible model. However, if
the test you conduct produces a reading of infinite resistance (meter's
needle does not move), then that is indicative of a faulty heating
element, and you should replace yours. Similarily, if the test you
conduct produces a reading of zero resistance (meter's needle moves to
the other extreme of the scale), then that is also indicative of a
faulty heating element, and you should replace yours.