Go to appliancejunk.com and you can download the service manual. also make sure you don't move the set nut on the change screw.when you turn it in it take a little muscle. stubby screwdrivers are a must. we also removed the tube(2 scews)that was in the way of the oriface.if i had to do it again i could do it again it would be a snap
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Some basic helpful instructions below. Really not much to it. Convert the regulator and replace the orifice. Basic instructions should come with the kit if purchased for that specific brand and model.
In my opinion, always best to buy the conversion kit at a local appliance parts store to be sure of getting all the required parts with specific instructions for the brand and model.
Basic Step By Step Instructions: First access the burner compartment. Usually a small access door in the lower right hand or left hand corner on some brands or models. Remove access panel.
On some brands and/or models the entire front panel must be removed. Look for screws in the door frame and/or at the base of the front panel. May have screws in both locations on some machines.
Some brands and/or models the top lid must first be lifted up wards. On many of these machines there will be no screws in the door frame. Usually only two screws are the base of the machine. Some no screws anywhere external. In this case, if there are two screws at the base remove them.
Then insert a thin blade or old credit card between the top lid and front panel about two or three inches in wards from each corner. Push in wards to release the clips while lifting up wards on the top lid. Each clip can be released separately or both at once.
Once the front panel is removed or access door is opened, look to the right of the gas control valve. There will be a tiny gas shut off valve on the gas supply pipe. Turn that tiny lever so it is across the pipe. Doing so turns off the gas to the control valve.
Than remove the wire quick disconnects from the solenoids on top of the gas valve. Than loosen and remove the hex nut on the control valve to separate the gas supply pipe from the control.
FYI: That hex nut is reverse threaded. Which means the hex nut turns opposite (counter clock wise) to loosen it and clockwise to tighten it. Use a backup wrench to hold the pipe while turning that nut counter clock wise.
Once the pipe is removed, there will be two or more sheet metal screws holding down the plate the control is mounted onto. Remove those screws.
Than carefully remove the burner out enough to get to the wires attached to the flame sensor, which is attached to the burners shroud cover. Remove that wire quick disconnect also.
Than remove the entire burner as an assembly. Remove the brass or bronze orifice in the burners nozzle. Replace the orifice with an LP or NAT orifice to match the BTU rating of the burner.
BTU rating is on the manufacturers plate with the model and serial numbers, usually located in the door frame. Most dryers are either 18,000 or 22,000 Btu's. Install an LP or NAT orifice to match the rating.
Than convert the built into the gas valve regulator. By removing the cap on top of the tower and turning it over and reinstalling it. Cap should be marked "N" or "NAT" for natural gas and "L" or "LP" for propane.
Turning the towers cap over converts the regulator. Side of the cap facing you indicates the fuel type it is set for. Not all regulators are convertible in this manner. Check with any local appliance parts store.
Some gas control valves do not have regulators that are convertible while some have a set screw to turn to another position or a lever to turn to another position. Several variables are possible.
Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and conversion parts. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.
Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks when reconnecting any of a gas part.
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DRYER SERVICE TIP: It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.
you will need an L.P. conversion kit. the kit contains a small spring, a new brass orifice and a new brass cap that fits on the gas valve. some kits are minus the spring. you will most likely have to remove the burner to put the new orifice in. any appliance repair store will be able to order you the kit. have model and serial number handy. good luck with your move into the country.
Open the door and look along the front upper edge of the door opening. In the top left and right rounded corner of the door opening you will see screws going upward into the top. Remove both screw and raise the top.
Look down inside the open top dryer from above on each left and right edge there will be a screw holding the front assembly to the case of the dryer. Remove 1 on each side.
The dryer front can now be pulled toward you about 3 inches at the top and then lifted off the bottom clips and swung away to the right from the case. Be careful not to strain any wires connected between the case and the front.
This will expose the underside of the dryer along with motor, Gas valve and venting for checking and vacuuming. Be careful of the ignitor. It is very brittle and can be easily broken
Gas service should should be done by professionals only as improper servicing can cause fires, explosion or death from asphyxiation. TEST for leaks after reassembling gas parts.
Perform thorough vacuuming and reverse the above process for reassembly. Good Luck
If you have the rear control dryer you posted under:
1. Unplug power to dryer.
2. remove two phillips head screws behind door, just in front of lint filter.
3. Use putty knife to push in dryer top release clips at seam with dryer front, about a inch in from each side.
4. Swing top up and remove two phillips screws holding front onto frame at very top of front panel.
5. pull front panel forward a bit and remove plug to drum light and door switch.
6. lift front panel off dryer.
7. Turn off gas shut off and remove burner / valve assembly.
8. Replace orifice and change out brass pressure regulator screw.
9. reassemble and test.
Disconnect power. Open dryer door and remove 2 phillips screws near lint filter. Remove three phillips screws at very back of dryer top which go through an L shaped part into the back of the dryer. (the L shaped part remains attached to the dryer top) Push the dryer top back about 2 inches and lift off. Remove one screw at each top front corner holding front control panel on to dryer. Remove control panel by carefully releasing plastic tabs which are holding front control panel onto metal support. (Watch out for sharp edges !) You can unplug all electrical plugs, or just swing it up on top of the dryer. (careful not to scratch the plastic control panel) Remove the four phillip screws now assessable at the top of the dryer's front panel / door panel. Tilt forward, unplug door switch and drum light, and lift front panel off . Now set the panel aside. At this point, you may be able to continue with the conversion, but it is easier to do and see if you remove the drum.
To remove drum, Unplug the sensor wire at the bottom of the drum support and remove four phillips screws (going into sides of dryer) holding front drum support and lift up and remove front drum support. Reach in under the drum to unhook the belt. Take drum out.
Take two phillip screws out of flame spreader and push flame spreader back off brass orifice into the burner cone a bit to remove it. Unscrew brass orifice and replace with the Natural Gas orifice. Turn the brass slot headed regulator blocker screw on the front top of the gas valve all the way up. Reassemble.
Sounds complicated but it's not real bad.
A FixYa rating is expected with this much help. Thanks.