Machine looks like new!! Even Clean inside bottom, belt is like new. The back Ply board cover looks brand new!!!
Started with a small LEAK!! I pulled inter drum to look at the Trans to outer tub and boot is in great shape. AS Iam looking inside tub I see a white spot and put my finger to it and found it is light shinning throw a rusted "HOLE"!!! there is more rust so I taped the rust and got a total OF
" ( 9 ) RUST HOLE!!!!!!! But now i can not find a new or used TUB. GE. Engineners Need to see how BAD the tub is. tub=ps1088347
Can Any One Help??? To find replacement TUB ?? Have a GREAT DAY!!! Mike 586-489-4548
Wire brush the rust away as much as possible, then vacuum out the crud. Go to an auto parts store and get a quart of Bondo auto body filler. (paintable silicon-latex caulk will work for awhile if you are lazy). Read the directions and use it, make sure a little squeezes through the holes. Leave as smooth a surface as possible, make sure to slope putty towards drain. Don't bother sanding after it hardens, no one will see it. Don't get any in the holes that are supposed to be there, as it could kill the water pump. Paint the Bondo and entire inside of tub with oil based paint like Rustoleum. You may also want to wire brush and paint the transmission shaft, as it is probably pretty rusty too. Let it dry until it doesn't smell anymore, then wash a load of your own clothes before you let your wife wash anything she cares about, just in case, cya, etc.
Now, start saving for that new washer you're going to need in about a year.
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Re: GE washing machine WWA8829
Hate to say it, but even if you can find a new tub, it would cost you more than the machine is worth. The plywood backing gave away the year of this model from the start, so it is an oldie. Even in the repair business, we rarely ever replaced a tub because GE only used a repair stick called "Slap Stick". This was like an epoxy type repair that you molded around the holes. Problem is this stuff will only fill a small type hole. If you are dead set in wanting to keep this washer going, you can run to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up a roll of what I call tar tape. It is a roll of flexable window flashing that is cutable. You cut a peice about three times the size of the hole, pell off the covering, then use force to stick it like tape. This doesnt always work, but worth a try. You can also stick the tape to the bottom around the same area, and have both peices of tape touch where the hole is. Give it a try,
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I would turn off the machine and unplug from the wall. Water is conductive and if it is throwing your switch you need a professional to look at it. Ring your local washing machine mechanic. Electricity and water are just too dangerous. If you keep resetting your switch and trying to run it, just to have it reset again, you can burn out the switch in the board. My husband did that when the kettle kept tripping it. New switch in the board was about $300.00.
The drive belt must be loose or broken...if it's an older machine.
Some have a shifter mechanizm ( a solenoid)...may have to be adjusted or replaced.
Lots of other mechanical things could be the problem. It could even be the timer.
Remove the back cover and have a look inside. You can easily see if the belt is ok.
BE SURE TO UNPLUG THE MACHINE FIRST!
It sounds like it might be the belt. You should unplug the machine, take the bolts and screws off of the back and lift the cover off. Look for the belt and see if you notice any damage or anything wrong with the belt.
Anyone with loud scraping/clanging- we had that problem and saw that the large wheel the belt goes around is only an inch above the metal bottom.When we moved the washer with a 2wheeler it pushed the bottom up into the metal wheel. The racket it made was horrible. It left metal shavings ,too. You'll need to pull the bottom of the washer back out.Pull fromt panal off with putty knife.You'll need to lean or lay washer to one side.Put a pillow or cushion inside between the tub and housing side you'll be leaning towards. What I did was drill two little holes-one near the back center and one near the front center. I took a long piece of heavy string,put one end in one hole and the other end in the other hole-outside to inside.Tie the ends around each end of a 1x2,18inch board .Get the board to the back without damaging stuff inbetween-pulling on your back string for help. Make sure the board is against the bottom, get to where you can now pull your string 'handle' w/both hands,yanking and popping the bottom back out.Our washer now works beautifully and quietly.
This is exactly what my machine was doing, as well. I fixed it by cleaning out the filter in front of the water pump.
Searching here, I found that you can remove the lower front panel (three screws along the bottom edge is all it takes) to get to the filter. With the panel removed, you'll see a round white plastic cover (about 3-4 inches diameter) that screws out. Get a bucket under the cover to catch the water that's in it (could be 2 quarts or more) and unscrew the cover.
The cover pulls out, revealing that is actually a screw-in plastic strainer. I found tons of coins, broken pens, paper clips, etc. in mine when I did this. A lot will be deep inside the black rubber hose that connects this filter housing to the washer drum. You can rake the stuff out with a bent wire clothes hanger. Shaking the black hose will help hurry the junk along and out of your machine. Screw the cover back on after the clean out and your machine should go back to normal.
Thinking about it, front loaders will have lots of small items flushed into the pump compared to top loaders. Coins you alway found in the bottom of the drum in a top loader, they all wind up in the filter of a front loader. And once it slow the drainage to a crawl the machine will shut down multiple times when it can't drain the water out completely, and it will never step up to it's max spin speed with all that water still in the drum.
Check the belt. The belt connects the motor to the pump and transmission. Depending on the brand it's usually open on the bottom. Just tip the machine back and take a look on the underside. If you can't see it take the bottom cover off.
Unplug your machine and unclip the plastic trim panel across the bottom of the machine (front) to reveal the circular pump filter cover. Unscrew this cover with your fingers and remove any debris inside. Put the cover back on, clip the panel back on and try your machine again. Should be fine.
it sounds like a belt and or clutch problem. there is a retaining clip that holds the clutch onto the motor, this may have come off releasing the clutch bell and belt. if you only see a half of a pulley in the bottom then you need a whole new clutch assembly with a new belt.
Sounds like the the motor belt is worn or off. Try a new belt, or check the drain pump filter for clogs.
If you've got a handy friend, it's easy to check these... remove the back of the washer (about 12 srews) and check for black dust inside, or a belt hanging or lying on the bottom.
To check the drain pump filer screen, look for the drain hose, follow it into the back of your washer and down to a plastic bow looking unit. There should be a round cover with a kind of handle on it. remove the cover, (water may run out... have a few towels handy) clean off lint etc. and put back together. Try again...