Question about Sony KP-53XBR200 53" Rear Projection Television

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Picture Problems My sony 53XBR200 shows a black and white picture, I can't get it to be color. If I hit Freeze Frame on the remote, the freeze frame is color. My multi screen will reduce the size of the picture and its color, but the perimeter picture channels are black and white. I have tried to play a DVD to check connections, but the screen picture is B&W? Any solutions that you know about? I have Auto Focused and read the manual 20 times and tried every function? thanks, RB

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How old is the tv . as it could well be the bulb on the way out as they only last 2-3 years or 4000 hours . when they are on the way out the light isnt so bright . take the bulb out and check the bar on the inside of the bulb if it is black in colour it is a good sign it is on it's way out. bearing in mind these bulbs do cost a small fortune (from £160 - £220 )depends on where you buy from.
Hope this is some help to you
Cheers
Adrian

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

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Check for poor grounding of the input signal cable wire.
easy way to check this is put in a dvd and is that in color?

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

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E50A10; color become not natural. The red look too strong. Seem like un-balance white balance (white color shown not clearly white but too much red)


Good day!!

I am suggesting you to hit the menu button on the tv itself or on the remote...
then the following will appear:

picture
sound
set up

when you see that please hit the picture then you will read the
AV mode please hit that by hitting the arrow next or up and down volume button so that you can pick what mode do you want also you can change/adjust the bright, contrast,sharp,color, tint...

hope it helps...thank you..

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Sony KP-53XBR200


cheak colers on cables make sure in all way try differt cable try resetting the tv and adjusting coler in

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After a few minutes of being on my Samsung HLN507w dlp tv the picture will freeze and turn black and white, but the sound still works, I have to unplug the tv to reset it then it will work again for a...


This tv have a colors wheel design in it.The tv make loud grinding motor noises or pictures flashes or freeze and pictures turn in black&white with sound.The tv colors wheel it is dying or worn out already.Don't tries to change the tv colors wheel ur self.If u don't any mechanical skills,because the colors wheel it sit way back of the tv,must take out many mechanical parts before even can come to the tv colors wheel itself to replace it.Best to hire a tv tech. to change the colors wheel,so no problems for tv funstions for later or damages more parts on the tv set,if u install the new colors wheel in the tv wrong way.

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In the past few day i've noticed the picture is


BRIGHTNESS. Your owner's manual probably says that the brightness setting is used to control "brightness" or "picture intensity" or something other fuzzy non-descript term. The truth is that brightness is used to set the BLACK level in the picture.
On most TVs and projectors in use today, brightness is set too high. That's because people think "a bright picture is good, so I will set it as bright as I can get." Well, that's nice in theory, but entirely wrong in practice. Setting the brightness level too high makes a black tuxedo look gray rather than black. It muddies up the shadow areas, and reduces the overall snap and crispness that the picture would have if properly calibrated.
To find the right setting for brightness, go to the image in your movie that has textured blacks and hopefully some shadow/low light areas in which there is detail. Then freeze on that frame. As you move the brightness control down, the intensity of the blacks will increase, and shadows will get darker. As you move the control all the way to zero, you will (hopefully) see that the low light shadow areas will also go to solid black and lose their detail.
The optimum setting for brightness is achieved at just the point where true black objects appear as black as your system will make them while retaining as much visible detail in the shadow areas. Above this point the blacks appear to go grayer. Below this point you lose detail in the shadows. On many video systems, this optimum point is toward the lower end of the brightness scale. But find the point that looks correct to you regardless of where it is on the scale.
CONTRAST. The contrast control is similarly confusing. It is also often set too high on the theory that contrast is good, and therefore we might as well get the most we can out of our set by turning it all the way up. In fact, the contrast setting is used to control the intensity of the brightest highlights in the picture, so it is (oddly enough) the opposite of brightness control.
First, find your test scene in which you find textured whites in bright light, and freeze that frame. You are looking for the brightest elements in the picture in which you want to retain visible detail.
Let's assume you have a whitewashed fence in sunlight. If you start with the contrast set low, the fence will appear light gray rather than white. As you move the contrast control up, the fence will get whiter. Eventually details in the texture of the fence will begin to disappear.
If you continue to push contrast past the optimum point, the wood-grain texture of the fence will go solid white and all visible detail will be obliterated. Push contrast up even a little further, and our fenceposts might actually appear to expand very slightly due to a glow around the edges. This phenomenon, called "blooming" is a definite sign that your contrast setting is overcooking the image (and maybe your picture tube as well—don't ever leave the contrast control set this high!!!)
Find the point at which whites look white while retaining as much texture detail as possible. This is your optimum contrast setting. On most video systems, this setting is toward the higher end of the scale, but it can be anywhere. Find the point that looks correct to you. (By the way, unlike TV's, digital projectors will not bloom)
Now…note the following: brightness and contrast can be to some degree interactive. Your new contrast setting may have affected your brightness. So return to the brightness scene and verify that your blacks are still black, and you still have maximum detail in the shadows. Adjust it if necessary, then return and adjust the contrast setting once again if necessary. (You can see that this is much easier if the black and white elements you are testing all appear in the same image!)
COLOR. The color control on your set determines the level of color intensity in the image. One of the most common errors people make in calibrating their video systems is overdriving the color. That's what makes Larry King look reddish-orange on the TV at the gym. Overdriving color is common because once again, people naturally think, "I want to get as much color as I can out of this color TV, so I will crank it up some to make sure I get the most out of it!" No. Bad mistake.
If you move the color setting down to zero you will notice that your picture will turn into a black and white image. The optimum setting for color is achieved by increasing the setting just to the point where colors look natural and not a bit more! Flesh tones should look natural and without any hint of an unnatural glow. Grass should look naturally green rather than screaming spray-paint green.
When adjusting color, make sure that your test image has relatively unsaturated colors. Flesh tones or natural landscapes are ideal. It is impossible to set color properly if you are using a brilliant red Ferrari as your test subject.
On the large majority of video systems, the optimum setting for color is somewhere near the middle of the scale. However, trust your eyes for the optimum setting and think "what looks like the most natural, accurate reproduction of reality?" Any overdriving of color will make the image look artificial.
TINT or HUE. The tint control adjusts color balance rather than color intensity. It is an easy control to set properly, but for some reason many people don't get it right. When flesh tones look either too green or too magenta, a phenomenon you see with amazing frequency, it is because the tint control is not set properly.
Find a human face and freeze-frame it. (In choosing your test subject, note that lighter skin tones will show errors in tint more readily than darker skin tones). As you move the tint control to one end of the spectrum, the face turns green; as you move it to the other extreme, the face turns magenta (red+blue).
The correct setting for tint is the point near the middle of the scale at which you can detect no hint of either green or magenta. It is the most neutral point between the two extremes. The flesh tone looks the most natural at this point.
SHARPNESS or DETAIL. The final setting is sharpness or detail. Now, pray tell, who in their right mind wouldn't want the sharpest, most detailed picture they could get? And since there is a control that lets you turn it up, why not turn it up? That's what many folks do, and of course it's exactly the wrong thing to do.
The sharpness control adds processed information to the picture that is NOT part of the original video signal. It adds artificially highlighted edges, and makes the picture look less natural than it otherwise would. This is most evident along the continuous edge of a dark object against a middle-toned background. When sharpness is overdriven the dark edge will be outlined by a white ringing effect that increases contrast just along the edge of your dark object. That edge "highlighting" effect is created by the sharpness control. It is an artificial manipulation of the image. It wasn't in the original scene, and it shouldn't be on your screen either.
On most televisions, the optimum setting for sharpness is zero. On many digital projectors, the optimum setting is either in the low or middle part of the scale. Picture tube televisions and digital projectors behave differently in this regard; on a digital projector it is often possible to fuzz the image by setting sharpness too low.
Now look at your picture with the sharpness turned down or off depending on what works best on your system. You will see a smoother, more natural image. It might take some getting used to, since you may be accustomed to viewing video with all the artificial edge enhancements that create the illusion of added sharpness.
However, when the interference and noise from the artificial sharpness enhancer is removed, you are seeing the most genuine reproduction of the video signal that your projector or TV is capable of. And if you view it for a while, you will gain an appreciation for just how smooth, natural, and satisfying the picture can really look.

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1 Answer

How do I stop from getting double pictures on my KP-53XBR200 53 in? And Stop the color green from going of center with the rest of the other colors?


Could be a convergence adjustment from your remote under MENU. (This can be done by you)
Could be a problem in the convergence circuitry. (This can be done a TV tech only)

N Sabre

Nov 07, 2009 | Sony KP-53XBR200 53" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

SONY rear projection TV - Whites have started looking "snowy"


This is your Picture tubes getting very weak.( low in emission ) You have three in there and I guarantee they are no longer available so I would start thinking about investing in a new set, but use that one until you can't stand it anymore.

May 28, 2009 | Sony KP-53XBR200 53" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

I have a sony 61HS10 rear projection tv. The small displays work, showing two or more pictures at the same time but when you want to display just one large full screen picture there is sound but no pi


As you told big picture freeze is working ,then there could the problem in the main processors which not to able pick video input signal ...If you would like to attempt a DIY, you will need a service manual to guide you. You can find one here:http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/ which also contains the part number incase you need a new part...

Good luck.....

Dec 06, 2008 | Sony KP-53HS30 53" Rear Projection...

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Picture Problems: Snow, color, lines


The most likely cause is shorted convergence chips and possibly a few pico fuses.

These sets need to have all three colors - RED - BLUE - GREEN - lined up correctly on the screen in order for the picture to look normal. This is called convergence.

When its out of alignment the video will look 3-D, wavy, distorted, etc. Most of the time you just need to adjust your convergence in the menu. If you cannot adjust it in the menu - then your convergence is broken and needs to be repaired. Convergence problems are very common on all Projection TV sets including Sony,Samsung,JVC,Philip Magnavox,Panasonic,Akai,Pioneer2_bing.gif Hitachi,Mitsubishi,Zenith and others.
You can get a convergenece repair kit with instructions from the links below.

Here are some of the most common problems with these sets...

Problem #1) Convergence

Yours may have one or more of the following symptoms...

*Screen Looks 3-D
*Colors wont align
*Screen may look distorted or warped
*No Audio/Video - TV Shuts down - May also make a constant chirping sound

Problem #2
Another common problem is dull or washed out video.

Your set may have one or more of the following symptoms....

*Dull looking picture
*White looking picture
*Halos around objects
*Red/Orange looking picture

You can see some more examples and find a fix herebb0cf99.png http://www.fixya.com/support/r2861467-solution_video_looking_whiteish_dull

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1 Answer

HLN4365W Picture goes askew and turns to black and white.


Hi...what you are seeing is the DMD board (digital Mirror display board) going bad. And if you leave it turned on like that it will damage the DMD mirror and freeze that picture into the mirror. It will look as if someone etched it into the mirror. DMD boards can be repaired and some cannot be repaired. The DMD board can be replaced. The DMD mirror can also be replaced too.

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1 Answer

Sony KP-53XBR200


check cable grounding, does it do it with a dvd?

Feb 01, 2008 | Projection Televisions

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