Our furnace stopped heating in the middle of the night, We are looking to change the filter on the actual model but, can't seem to find the location on the furnace it's self. Can you please let us know where it is so we can replace it? thanks Brandi Shortt
We had a similar question on our Goodman furnace, couldn't find where the filter goes.
Our furnace has two large metal covers that cover the lower and upper parts of the furnace in front, approximately 18 inches by 18 inches. The top one has a sticker that says "don't open equpiment, you may void the warranty". The filter is inside this compartment, at the bottom. You have to unscrew the screws that hold these two covers together, then just pull the filter out to change it.
I called the people who installed our furnace and aksed them if it really voids the warranty for us to open it up and they were non-comittal about it. Anyway, I opened it and changed the filter.
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Re: furnace filter on model gmt070-3a...
Look in and around where the blower motor is located. there has to be a filter compartment there. probably near the bottom as it looks like an upflow heater. make sure the filter door is closed. it may have a door interlock switch that cuts the burner out if it is not fully closed.
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Thermostats used in homes sometimes have a timer built in which will remind you to change your furnace filter. Most of them can be adjusted or disabled. The thermostat has no way of knowing whether the filter is actually dirty, it just reminds you every so often by flashing "filter" on the display.
It is possible to reset the timer, or adjust how often it appears, or disable it completely. Exactly how to do that depends on the make and model of your thermostat. Often, it is simply a case of holding two buttons at the same time for a few seconds.
As to why the furnace doesn't come on, there can be many reasons. The problem likely is not the "filter" flashing on the display of your thermostat. Try resetting the breakers that service the furnace unit itself. Make sure that the thermostat is set to "heat" and the setting is turned up. If the thermostat uses batteries (most do these days), replace them.
If this doesn't work, the following information will be helpful to get the furnace running again:
Age of furnace
Location in home
Brand and model of thermostat
I suppose this furnace is fueled by Natural Gas? (Or is it Propane-- Bottled gas?)
Did the Service company leave you any manual, with your new furnace? and I would think there was a warranty, for assuring you (the customer) satisfaction, no? Have you called the people who sold/installed it? What do they say?
If they did leave a manual-- what does it suggest for narrowing down your possible problems? Like: Low Fuel-- Low Voltage- Filter Changes, Fan switch problems- or ignition failure problems?
For a new furnace, someone should be right there to do a start-up for you!
Will need to know model and seriel of furnace - sounds like a dirty or defective flame sensor. Flame sensor can usually be cleaned by simply wiping it with a slightly abrasive paper, or 0000 steel wool. Most electronic ignition types have a diagnostic code generally located on the ignition control, and depending on the number of "blinks" from the diagnostic light it will tell you why the unit did not fire.
When in the heating mode, all heat pumps are dependent upon the outdoor conditions to remove heat energy from the environment and turn it into useful heat for your dwelling.
Heat pumps operate more effectively in temperate climates (as in southern states) and if it's as cold as you say, then the furnace is coming on to add auxiliary heat to the space to make up for the lack of heat being supplied by the heat pump. This is normal.
Some heat pump systems are or can be equipped with a control known as a "low ambient cut out" and/or "motor master" that prevents the heat pump compressor from operating and slows or stops the condensing unit fan when it's too cold and risking potential compressor damage. When it's in the single digits outside, a heat pump is only marginally effective. and usually requires auxiliary heat (your furnace).
If the furnace keeps operating when it's in the 30s or 40s, you may want to have the system examined by a competent service technician. As always, the outdoor condensing unit should be kept clean and the furnace filter should be changed no less than monthly, unless you have an electronic air filter.
If your furnace has a filter or fan compartment door, be sure it closed tightly and that the filter is installed correctly - there could be an interlock switch that is preventing the thermostat from operating. Also, if you haven't already turned off the power to the furnace, do that, wait a minute and then turn it back on.
Obviously, make sure the thermostat is on, is set to heat and calling.
there isnt a pilot if it has jets , it has a Hot surface ignitor. you should see a glow and then the jets light , if its running for a few min it may be overheating, have you changed the filter recently? you should also have a flash code you can locate when the furnace shut off and is no longer doin what its supposed to look thru the bottom door peep hole and watch for a series of red flashes. if you remove the cover after retrieving the flash code there will be a chart on the inside of the cover that will tell you why the furnace is shutting off. by the way the model # you gave is for the A/C coil above the furnace, not the furnace.
the fan you hear come on at a call for heat is most likely just the inducer motor. the click you hear is probably the relay for the hot surface ignitor which should glow red, then in turn ignite the main burners. your going to have to determine if the ignitor is coming on. if it isnt the ignitor is bad and will need to be replaced. if it comes on and than shuts off after a few seconds the ifc board is probably at fault