Question about Philips Magnavox 9P6034C 60" Rear Projection Television

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My waffle maker stopped working.

The light is not coming on and it does not heat anymore. Did I burn out the element or is there a fuse I can change?

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Try a new cord

Posted on Feb 07, 2008

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My HL-R5656W made a popping sound and the screen became black. We ordered a replacement lamp and replaced the old broken lamp. The popping sound stopped but the screen does not come back. The LAMP light...


hi,
Check the lamp colling fan is it working or not. Also check the connection on the lamp holder is proper or not, possibility of connector burning . then, you have to check the lamp power supply. check the fuse in it. if all these are ok then you have to change the lamp power supply.
ok

Feb 06, 2011 | Samsung HL-R5656W 56" DLP HDTV

Tip

MY DRYER WONT WORK


This advice is general in nature, but should assist you in isolating MOST dryer malfunctions.
Normally when a dryer starts to exhibit longer dry times, then suddenly stop working, it is an indication that the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) or Heating Element has blown. But…what causes this to happen?

First, a little dryer theory: A dryer needs air to breath. Proper ventilation is required for the heating circuits to regulate the internal air temperature properly. If you have to keep placing items back in the dryer to dry again, or the dryer just doesn’t seem to be putting out hot enough air, it may be time to think about checking the dryer vent ducting (a simple separation of more dense clothing from lighter weight clothing can help shorten dry times too). If the heating circuits are starved for air they actually OVERHEAT and can cause problems. This is why the outside case can feel hot, but the drum inside feels cold. The TCO acts as a fuse for the heating element circuits. When an overheat condition occurs, the hi-limit thermostat is supposed to open to shut off the heating element. This is how the dryer regulates its heat. However, if the hi-limit thermostat malfunctions, the TCO will blow. This device acts as a fuse, is not resettable, and has to be replaced. This also means that the hi-limit thermostat could be suspect and it should also be replaced at the same time. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the two components together and are sold as a set.

Now...if your dryer has been having problems drying, the first thing you need to check is the ventilation ducting to ensure that it is not kinked or clogged. Poor air flow is the number one cause of dryer failures. Not to mention it can cause fires due to lint backing up inside the dryer. This could be the "electrical" smell a lot of people complain about. If lint accumulates on the heating element it will smolder and burn. It is often reported that you should clean your ducting twice per year. I recommend the ducting be checked (this means inspected to see if it needs cleaning) thoroughly about once per season. That's 4 times per year. If you've never cleaned the ducting, or your dryer is pushed all the way up against the wall causing the ducting to become kinked, you will have air flow problems. One way in determining air flow is to remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and start the dryer (of course, you need a working dryer in order to do this). The air should be forceful and slowly warm up to about 140 degrees. If the air flow is weak, you may have a clog inside the air baffle of the dryer (this is where the lint screen slides into). If the air flow is good, reattach the dryer hose and check at the output of the dryer vent as it exits your home. If the air flow is weak or non-existent then you know you have a clog in the vent line somewhere. Periodic cleaning will go a long way towards preventing future clogs. Dryer vent rule of thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent line, the BETTER. Everywhere you have a bend or kink is an area where you will create potential collection points for lint. Poor dryer maintenance is also one of the frequent causes of house fires.

How to troubleshoot a dryer: If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side. CAUTION: It is recommended that you unplug the dryer BEFORE servicing the inside or cleaning. There are still dangerous voltages present even with the machine turned off.


Symptom:
Dryer Runs, But Does Not Heat:

Suspected Components:


1. Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.
2. Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
3. Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) – Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
4. Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, approx. 7 ohms across the other.

5. Bad Heater Relay (usually located in the console) – this is not equipped on all model dryers. However, on dryers that DO have them, this acts as a switch and turns the heater circuits on at the push of the START switch.

Dryer Does Not Run At All:


Suspected Components:
1. Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms. NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, the drum light will not come on.
2. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
3. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
4. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
6. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
7. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.


These recommendations for TROUBLESHOOTING are not all inclusive as different manufacturer models vary in components and configuration. However, the general cleaning maintenance and proper ventilation requirements should apply to ALL dryers.

on Apr 19, 2009 | Sony Grand WEGA KDF-42WE655 42" Rear...

1 Answer

No heat, and the timer stopped ticking. It was being used yesterday and just stopped heating. It's 5 years old and only used for a family of 2.


Good day,
The timer will not advance if in auto dry mode, and is not heating.
Unplug, and remove back cover.
You will see a long skinny white bakelite device with 2 wires connected to it. You will need an ohm meter to test it.
It should check 0 resistance. If not replace.
The heating element is located on the right side inside a cannister.
2 terminals will stick out from it (maybe one thru a limit thermostat).
It should test no higher than 10 to 15 ohms. If it reads open, then you will need to replace the heating element.
There are many other thermostats located on the back section and all should check 0 resistance, but the first 2 I listed account for 99% of no heat complaints.

Here's a link to changing a heating element..

http://www.applianceaid.com/wp_element.html

Thank you for using FixYa

Dec 20, 2009 | Projection Televisions

1 Answer

My d52w14 wont turn on at all anymore it got unplugged from the wall and when i plugged it back in there was a pop and i saw the electricity between the socket and the tv. the green light doesnt come on...


you have shortcircutted a fuse either on the plug or internally

its a quick and cheap fix should be less than £50

unless you have damaged some other stuff in it but you shouldnt have unless it was faulty and the fuse wasnt working properly

it works like the circut breakers in your house but the fuse needs to be changed everytime it is activated

Sep 19, 2009 | RCA D52W20 52" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready...

2 Answers

Toshiba 57H81, power to transformer and flyback.


IF YOU REPLACED THE SAME PICO FUSE, YOU PROBABLY HAVE A BAD CONVERGENCE IC AGAIN . DID YOY SNUG UP THE IC TO THE HEAT SINK AND USE THERMAL HEAT COMPOUND ON THE NEW IC'S? ALSO CHECK SOLDER CONNECTIONS TO C810 AND C809 THE FUSE BY THE CAPACITORS MAY BE OPEN.

Jan 22, 2009 | Toshiba 57H81 57" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Flashing light


Video output IC on either the CR, CG or CB pcb boards is most likely the problem or the A board is defective. I would try the video output on the CR, CG and CB boards first.

Jul 16, 2008 | Sony KP-57WS510 57" Rear Projection HDTV

1 Answer

Burning smell


.. any heat element like bulb must be installed exactly and that means its wattage, voltage and physical characteristics.. and also make sure that you have replaced Fan blowers and making it sure that it runs properly when the unit is on. as it was said also make sure that you do check the light that travels thru lenses and filters that is not block by dirt, cables or any other foreign materials.

Jan 31, 2008 | Sony Grand WEGA KDF-55WF655 36" Rear...

8 Answers

Pioneer SD-532HD5 Projection Screen TV won't turn back on.


the problem with pioneer projection tvs is that when they made the boards they never used enough solder for the circuits and you get cracks in the runs. thats why heat and cold will effect it. I had the same problem and I took out the board and resoldered every track I could and it works good now but my remote wont work if anyone has any info or prints to this tv please post on here

Jul 26, 2007 | Pioneer SD-532HD5 53" Rear Projection...

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