I am in the process of putting together a 12v system using solar, generator and boat motor alternator as charge sources and two battery banks one for motorstart and one for house boat (12v waterpump, toilet pump, car radio with amp, lights and 12v t.v) i have three panels with controller (PL-20 plasmatronics) i was wondering how to connect alternator into system and when connecting multiple panels do i need a diode at each panel?
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Re: solar connections for 12vdc houseboat system
Based on your post/description, I would suggest that: 1. There is no need to install a diode from the boat motor alternator since most current design used electronic regulators with built-in diodes. The output of the alternator therefore could go straight to the battery or a switch (*selecting battery 1 or 2); 2. It would probably be safer that you would install a diode after a portable generator since some design do not need/use internal rectification but are connected straight to the windings/coil; 3. There is no need to install diode after each solar panel.
To my understanding the Plasmatronics have built-in in-line diodes to its inputs/outputs (unless otherwise required such as with the "Catch Diode protection" across the load). Additionally, unlike in some other system, a PL-20 would require that the negatives not be tied to a common ground. The PL-20 is relatively a straight forward connection (it's the programming that is a challenge).
Hope this be of help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
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That model is meant for marine (boat) use. You can pre-test it anywhere as long as you are providing the proper power source. It's meant for 12vdc. If you have a marine battery, or a car battery handy, just power it up from that. You do not want to plug it in to household current, you would fry it in a matter of seconds. I would suggest hooking it up to the power 12v outlet in your car of truck to test it.
Check the windings for shorts. Also check commutator bars or rings to make sure none are grounding to the armature sharft or laminations.
If those all check okay check brush tension and wire connection integrity, try flashing the armature if the starting action is not performed though the windings, In other words if it has a discrete starter motor- flash the armature. If there are start windings on the armature, it gets flashed each time it is started.
Also double check the wiring of the coils because someone may have connected them wrong, out of phase, in parallel when they should be in series, etc.
At no load it should be higher- but it is also a factor of how the magnetic fields are building or decaying.
Also check to see if you have any capacitors for power factor correction- they may be shorting out.
Corrosion. TIme to open it up and spray the switch contacts and controls with a contact cleaner. This includes any jacks. My preference is for LPS 1, it cleans well and leaves little residue. I know some people who trust WD40 with their electronics, I would only consider it as a last resort as it has a reputation of gluing things together.
Hi. The red wire is your real positive wire and goes to your fuse box on a fuse with 12V only when ignition is turned on.
The orange one needs to get steady 12V. Plug it on an always alive 12V fuse.
The black wire is the ground. Put it on a screw attached to the frame, you can find one inside your fuse box.
If your are not familiar with all of these just twist your red and orange wires together (positive) and plug it to your battery positive + pole. Put the black one on the negative pole - of your battery. This is the easiest way to go if you have enough wire length.
First of all you only have the Power wire Red, and the ground wire Black to connect for 12v DC to power the unit. If you memory power it is usually connected to a constant power source such as the cigarette lighter or continuous 12V dc powersupply off of the battery. These are the only connections that should be connected to provide power. Since the unit will not turn on I suspect that the CB's power supply and regulator have been blown. Another possible choice is that the radio was working and someone removed the antenna cable and the the RF power amplifier malfunctioned taking the power supply and regulator with it.
To solve this problem, check the voltages on the wires before connecting them to the radio (these should be the 12 volt power off of the radio circuit, and the 12 volt power off of the continuous 12V connector (or the cigarette lighter). These voltages should read 12V.
Connect the CB with it turned off and measure the voltages (should be 12V)
Turn the radio on and check the voltages (should be a little less than 12V)
If the radio does not come on then the internal power supply of the radio might be defective (In this case I would advise taking the CB to a qualified radio repair shop)
I hope this helps
you need a volt meter and a 1.5 volt battery
if wires are not marked in car use the volt meter to find 12v with car off thats your memory wire ( pink or blue ?) then turn car on or to acc find 12v with car on thats your power wire ( red or yellow?) then turn car off and use the battery to find the speakers one at a time fr then fl then rr then rl you will hear the speakers clik with the battery on the right wire allso note on some cars the front speakers are grounded
allso you can get a wireing adaptor from wall mart and online
I am assuming your Transit is an older model. To get rid humming noises out of Car radios in the old days from generators and alternators there was a device they used to put on the alternator. I think it was like a capacitor. I am pretty sure you can still buy these at places like Jaycar and Dick Smith. They also used to put a device in the spark plug leads to stop interference from the motor/alternator. I don't know if this will help or not but is worth a try. Of course it could be a squealing fan belt and will do it until the belt warms up. That being the case a bit of soap or crayon on the belt will/should stop it. Hope I have helped.
Unfortunatly a owner's manual is no longer available for that, but here are some general CB hint's and tips. Hope this helps.
TRC-424 4-Watt Solid-State
Transceiver (210-1522) Hints and Tips Faxback Doc. # 48947
Your vehicle or boat can be the cause of much noise interference. Since
the receiver section of your transceiver is very sensitive, it can pick up
even the smallest noise signal and amplify them. Any noise that you hear
in the transceiver is almost totally from external sources. The receiver
itself is exceptionally quiet. Steady high noise levels can not be totally
eliminated by the internal Automatic Noise Limiter circuit (BLANKER).
Noise problems can not be solved internally (in the transceiver); they must
be solved at the source of the noise.
If you wonder if the noise is from your ignition system, the transceiver or
an external source, try this simple test. Turn your ignition switch off
and set it to ACC (accessories). This turns off the ignition, but supplies
power to the transceiver. Most of the noise will disappear - indicating
that the source of the noise is your ignition system.
This interfering noise can be generated anywhere in the electrical system
of the vehicle or boat. The first step in reducing or eliminating this
noise is to locate the source of the noise.
The most common source of noise is the ignition system. This noise can be
identified by the fact that it varies with the speed of the engine. It
consists of a series of popping sounds occurring at a regular rate that
will vary with the speed of the engine and stop when the ignition is turned
There are a number of things that can be done to reduce this type of noise:
1. Use only the 'radio suppression type' high voltage ignition wire.
Most new cars come already equipped with this type of wire.
2. Inspect the high voltage ignition wire and all connections made with
this wire. Old ignition wire may develop leakage, resulting in hash.
3. If the noise still persists, replace the spark plugs with spark plugs
that have suppressor resistors builtin. Be sure to use the correct
type for your vehicle.
Other sources of noise are: generator/alternator, regulator, gauges and
static discharge. Most of these types of noise can be effectively reduced
or eliminated by using bypass capacitors at the various output voltage
points. We suggest that you check your RadioShack store for a wide
selection of noise reduction accessories.
SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Your transceiver has been built in accordance with RadioShack's exacting
quality control standards. However, it should be treated with reasonable
care accorded any electronic equipment. Avoid exposing it to severe shock,
dirt or moisture.
If you run into problems with the unit, we recommend you check the
1. If trouble is experienced with receiving.
Check VOLUME On/Off switch setting.
Be sure SQUELCH is adjusted properly. Is it over-squelched?
Check if the unit is switched to an operating channel.
2. If trouble is experienced with transmitting.
Be sure the Microphone is firmly connected to the Microphone jack on
Check if the transmission line is securely connected to ANTenna Coax
Check if the antenna is fully extended for proper operation.
Are all transmission line connections secure and free of corrosion?
Make sure you are fully depressing the push-to-talk button on
Check PA push-button setting. It must be in 'out' position.
3. If the transceiver is completely inoperative.
Check the power cable and fuse (2A).
If these checks don't solve the trouble, do NOT attempt repair or
adjustments yourself. The unit should be services only by a qualified
radio technician. Whenever possible, return the unit to the store from
which it was purchased.
Citizen band radio operators have largely adopted the 10-code for standard
questions and answers. Its use permits faster communications and better
intelligibility in noisy areas. The following table lists some of the more
common codes and their meanings.
10-1 Receiving Poorly 10-10 Standing By
10-2 Receiving Well 10-13 Advise Road/Weather Conditions
10-3 Stop Transmitting 10-20 What is your location?
10-4 OK 10-33 Emergency Traffic
10-7 Out of Service 10-36 Correct Time
10-8 In Service 10-41 Switch to Channel
10-9 Repeat 10-99 Cannot Copy You
DO NOT OPEN UP THE TRANSCEIVER TO MAKE ANY INTERNAL ADJUSTMENTS. Any
internal adjustments can be made only by (or under the direct supervision
of) a person holding an FCC 1st or 2nd Class Radio Operator's License.
Internal adjustments and/or modifications can lead to illegal operation as
defined by FCC Rules and Regulations, Part 95. Such illegal operation can
lead to very serious consequences.
To Be Safe And Sure:
1. You should never open up the case of your Transceiver.
2. Never change or replace anything in your Transceiver.