I am in the process of putting together a 12v system using solar, generator and boat motor alternator as charge sources and two battery banks one for motorstart and one for house boat (12v waterpump, toilet pump, car radio with amp, lights and 12v t.v) i have three panels with controller (PL-20 plasmatronics) i was wondering how to connect alternator into system and when connecting multiple panels do i need a diode at each panel?
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Re: solar connections for 12vdc houseboat system
Based on your post/description, I would suggest that: 1. There is no need to install a diode from the boat motor alternator since most current design used electronic regulators with built-in diodes. The output of the alternator therefore could go straight to the battery or a switch (*selecting battery 1 or 2); 2. It would probably be safer that you would install a diode after a portable generator since some design do not need/use internal rectification but are connected straight to the windings/coil; 3. There is no need to install diode after each solar panel.
To my understanding the Plasmatronics have built-in in-line diodes to its inputs/outputs (unless otherwise required such as with the "Catch Diode protection" across the load). Additionally, unlike in some other system, a PL-20 would require that the negatives not be tied to a common ground. The PL-20 is relatively a straight forward connection (it's the programming that is a challenge).
Hope this be of help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
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Ez test to determine if stator wiring is ok. This test works on generators that have two sets of 115v plugs and 220v plug. Use a 12v, 1amp ac power supply ( smaller ac power supply should work ok ). With generator not running, apply 12v to one of the 115v outlet plugs. Now verify 12v output voltage with meter at another 115v outlet on generator. Also verify that there is about twice the voltage at the 220 v outlet plug (should be about 20v - 24v) . If the adjoining 115 v outlet plug has no output or very little voltage or if the 220 volt plug has no output, most likely stator is damaged or breaker is off. If the stator is shorted voltage reading will be very low and power supply will heat up. If stator is open, there will be no voltage at second 115v plug or 220 v plug. If voltage is ok at the other outlet plugs as per test above then most likely problem is with voltage regulator, or brushes not making contact or armature winding open or just needs to be energized. Unplug the 12v power supply after test to prevent it from overheating. Most generators have two 115v windings that together power the 220v plug. When you energize one of the windings with the 12v power supply, the second 115v winding will be energized also and give you a voltage reading about equal to 12v. You will not damage the generator with this small voltage being input thru the plug. Good luck
My wives car battery kept going dead and had to be recharged often because it wasn't driven enough to keep the battery charged. A friend told me about the Solar Panel and I bought one and haven had a problem since. It really works great not only for the car battery but also for Trucks, boats, camping gear and RVs that have a 12V Battery. It is available at Harbor Freight Stores. Copy this site
There MUST be a generator attached to the engine of your genset to recharge the battery as starting current greatly reduces the charge of the battery. The solar panel was designed to "trickle" the battery to keep the battery "fresh".
Installing a generator into a boat is critical to be done correctly. You need to contact the manufacturer of your generator for approval, and wiring diagrams. If done incorrectly (which if you are connecting 12v from gen), you may create eddy fields that can cause galvanic corrosion, not to mention electrical shock hazards.
If your generator isn't marine rated, then don't install it into a boat.
Portable generators can be used, but don't hardwire those into a boat. Just use extension cords to the appliances you want to power.
You will need really high rpms to get the alternator to spin fast enough to produce a decent output, which would require a pulley system or a gearbox of some sort. I would suggest a direct drive to a DC motor then through a controller to storage batteries and then an inverter (assuming you want AC power).
The gases in the system may have totally separated. Try (burping it ) as follows. Witht the refrigerator sitting on its base, roll it on to the door and wait 5 minutes, Then roll it to its top so it is literally upside down, wait 5 minutes. Then roll it to its back and wait 5 minutes. Then restore it to its base and wait 5 minutes. Thi procedure will flush the water from the boiler section through the passages of the system and recombine the gases. Then try it on 120 Volts. It takes about 12 hours for the unit to fully cool down.
I've done it, using an adjustable power supply all i needed was 12VDC -
2Amp, the power connector going to the scanner is a 4 pin mini-DIN
male, so i've ripped of the cable from the original bad power module,
cable has inside 2 wires one black one white and a shielding. Black and
schielding are connected together and are going to the minus, the white
one is going to +12V