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Main seal I have a GE profile washer, 7 years old, leaking at main seal. Is this difficult to replace? I have heard that I will need to replace the tub seal, locking ring and hub nut. I can't see where the bearing(s) are/is. I assume these need replacing as they have been wet and rusty for a while and are noisy.

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This is a pretty tough job to do on your own, but can be done. First step is to remove the front, then the top. Remove the rear cover plate under the console, and swing it out of the way. Unclip the top ring and remove the four suspension dampener straps, remove the top ring. Reach under the agitator, and pull up with force (dont hit yourself in the head or face with it, hurts for sure...) until it pops off (agitators on GE's just snap). Sometimes these can be a real bear to get off, so dont get discouraged. Sometimes you can put a peice of small rope or line under it and jerk it up. After you remove the agitator, you will see the drive bell. Remove the bolt on top of the bell, and once again, try to pull the bell up and off the shaft (once again, a real bear in some occasions, rope trick or puller also will work here). Once you remove the bell, the good part starts. Most of us repair persons have a special spanner tool for that nut your looking at. I believe it is a 1 7/8" nut. This nut is REVERSED THREADED, which means to remove you will spin it clockwise. These spanner nuts can be very, VERY difficult to remove. A lot of WD-40 and time. Most of the time you have to bang them off with that special tool and a hammer, but you may get lucky. If you do get that nut off, you can remove the inner tub. Be sure that the metal drive hub bolted to the bottom of the inner tub is completely tight all the way around. GE units have a very bad habit of those screws backing out and the drum getting loose causing major league noise. Now that you have removed that, you need to remove the outer drum. Remove the wires from the motor, etc. Unhook the 4 suspension rods and plastic clips by pulling the bottoms down (spring loaded) and removing them from the frame. Unhook the tub to pump drain hose, tilt the entire center section top towards the back, and swing the unit out from the bottom. Remove the outer tub by removing the hold down screws. Your seal will be in the bottom. Just pop out and replace. Here are some diagrams that might help you out.

Cabinet and Top:
http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImagePageJava.shtml?productTypeID=0153200&brandID=0432&modelDesc=WASHER&modelNumber=WWSE6260B3WW&documentID=G0302079&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PV&titleType=CABINET%2C%20COVER%20%26%20FRONT%20PANEL&titleID=00002&

Drum, Agitator, Basket:
http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImagePageJava.shtml?productTypeID=0153200&brandID=0432&modelDesc=WASHER&modelNumber=WWSE6260B3WW&documentID=G0302079&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PV&titleType=TUB%2C%20BASKET%20%26%20AGITATOR&titleID=00003&

Drive Componants, Suspension Parts:
http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImagePageJava.shtml?productTypeID=0153200&brandID=0432&modelDesc=WASHER&modelNumber=WWSE6260B3WW&documentID=G0302079&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PV&titleType=SUSPENSION%2C%20PUMP%20%26%20DRIVE%20COMPONENTS&titleID=00004&

Good luck, and let me know how it comes out, or if you need anything further. Good Luck!!!!!!

Posted on Feb 03, 2008

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check these:

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  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


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All the time

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During fill only
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All the time

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If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


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During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


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Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


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If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


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Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


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If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


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During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


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Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


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If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

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