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This could be one of two problems. It could be your switch is broken, preventing it from going to low speed. Try clicking it, does it still make a distinctive click sound, does it feel loose? If so it may be your switch: Rainbow e2 power switch
Otherwise if may be your computer in your E2 is starting to go bad. Often times if Rainbow stops going into one of the speeds it is due to a computer going bad. This is an expensive part and repair, so you should probably take it in and make sure it is the computer. Rainbow E2 controller 120v
Hi, here is a walkthrough on how to get to that part here. Steps 1 - 14 on how to access it, you will need to take apart the housing to get at it. If you need a new switch you can find that here. Rainbow did redesign this switch, so you will need to look at the wiring diagram if you are installing a new switch.
Possible that it needs a much needed maintenance, remove the pan up and clean up all the clogged dirt in the system, clean up the filter, use a good brush to wipe out all dirt and check if wires are damaged in the feed. Check the switch and reset back filters.
If the fault is recurring the motor must be checked for weakness, might need a brush up.
All SE series vacuums have a built in thermal and load fuse on the motor, and if it blew, it has to be replaced, or wired directly, with out it on there.
Motor brushes are usually the source of a non working Rainbow D4 and SE and all model Rainbow vacuums and when they burn out, they usually take the motor armature with them, from excessive heat and flare electrical arking to the armature.
It is probably the thermal and load fuse, that is your problem, if you did not smell any electric burning type of smell, before it quit. It could be the power switch, but not as likely as the fuse.
If you have any more questions let me know. I am a Rainbow seller, and a Rainbow expert also.
If nozzle works but the main unit does not then it leaves only few things - motor is "kaput" or some wire got loose somewhere. When motor burns it usually stinks pretty bad. You have to open it up to see and test. We can do it for you but you'd have to ship it here.Se instructions
There is no reset button, but some of those old switches are very touchy . . . if there was some
corrosion, you may not have a good contact (was enough of the new wire insulation stripped away, before putting it into the switch) . . .
I prefer splicing, rather than going all the way to the switch . . its just a matter of cutting out the old cord and splicing in the new cord in a convenient spot up in the motor compartment. . . a Rainbow purist would run the new cord all the way up into the power on/off rocker switch that's built into the top of the handle and then wire the new cord in there, directly at the switch . . . that way means no splicing . . . I've done it both ways, but I prefer to splice and use wire connectors inside the motor compartment . . . because going further, all the way up directly into the on/off switch just to avoid splicing the new cord in requires taking more things apart . . . and risks screwing up the power switch . . . that's not worth the extra time and trouble, IMHO. (This from someone who has dismantled and refurbished over 200 D4C and SE models)