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Heater element hi i have a problem with my machine it will not heat up ! i have had a circuit tester across it and the element shows a circuit which i am assuming means the element is fine , when i went to test for power from the insulated wire to the earth it tripped out my fuse box the wire on the other side is not plugged into anything !!! if i try and do a wash cycle it sits on wash all day but if i manually fill with hot water via the door then it will go through the whole cycle without any problems , hope someone can help cheers paul

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  • Anonymous Apr 16, 2008

    the water is not heating

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Hello Paul, I am not sure what a circuit tester is showing you. I use a volt meter to check the incoming voltage to the element. If the voltage is within factory specs, then I use my Amp meter to check if the element is pulling any amperage. The fact that you fill the washer with hot water then it works tells me that the unit isn't heating. If you don't have a volt meter to measure the voltage, then see if you have a friend to borrow one from. Hope this helps.

Posted on Feb 02, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My electric hot water isnt workin! My unit is 10 years old GE10074 240 volts AC only-45 gallons. 4500 WATTS. The cold water runs fine-NO HOT-what could it be.GE model#:GE38S06AAG Serial#305D10074


Hi LiLo

Is this unit designed to pre heat the water to a given temperature or is it On-Demand. Eg the heater turns on only when a tap is turned on?
Either way, you need to check if AC is getting to the heater by using a multimeter of a Neon Light tester.
Once you find out if it's got AC at the heater then it's a simple matter of following the AC to the actual element.
If the Element shows 240v across the element but does not heat up then the Element is open circuit and will need replacing.
If there is some control mechanism stopping the element from getting 240v then you've found the problem. The Control circuit or temperature sensor.


Good Luck

Oct 19, 2015 | Water Water Heaters

1 Answer

Newly installed Hott Rod in 6 gal RV water heater only heats to lukewarm. Has been on for 12 hours. Outside temperature is 60 degrees


Hott rod is 120Volt AC.
Check voltage supply for undervoltage, or reversed polarity, or tripped breaker.
Check that electric thermostat is set to 120 degrees.
Rotate thermostat temperature adjustment back and forth and see if you can hear water heater working.
Thermostats can be bad, or stick.
Check the ECO red reset button is not tripped out.
If tank was not full of water before power was applied, the element will instantly burn out.
Use continuity tester across bare element screws to see if element is good. Or use multimeter and test across bare element screws shows 29 ohm for 6 gallon, 18 ohms for 10 gallon.
More resources at Hott Rod, for troubleshoot and contact.
http://www.hottrod.net/hott_rod_troubleshooting.asp

Oct 31, 2012 | Camco Hott Rod RV/Camper 6 Gallon Water...

1 Answer

All of the fuses check out element is good all conections good but no heat


There are 5 switch-like elements in series with the heater element, according to one diagram I found (Google "kenmore 80 dryer wiring diagram"). If any of these is open you won't get heat. If you're handy with a VOM, it's any easy problem to track down. Start at the element -- you should see 240VAC across it. If you do, the element is bad. If you don't, check across all the other switch-like things. You should read 0VAC across each of them if they're closed (good) or open (bad). It's a relatively easy matter to find a single open element, slightly more complicated if there are several.

Or, start across the 2 240VAC line legs. You should read 240VAC; if not, your problem is outside the dryer (circuit breakers DO fail). If so, there is an open somewhere in the circuit preventing current flow. Move one of your VOM test leads through the circuit from that 240VAC leg all the way around to the other leg. It will continue to show 240VAC until you pass over the open element (a switch-thing, a bad piece of wire (unlikely), or the heater element), at which time it will show 0VAC. When that happens, the problem is in the element you just passed over. If you're lucky, it will be an easily-replaced part.

Sep 23, 2012 | Kenmore 80 Series Heating Element -...

2 Answers

No heat cleaned all filters


Either the element has failed, or one of the thermal button fuses has failed open circuit. Either way the back has to come off the dryer.

Dec 13, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

I replaced all parts but water heated won't get hot


You have electric water heater.
You replaced elements and thermostats but heater still won't work.
And tank was completely full of water, and water was running out of a faucet before turning power ON.
If elements are not fully immersed in water, they will instantly burn out.
If upper element is burned out, then tank will have NO hot water.
If lower element is burned out, and upper element is not burned out, then tank will have some hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

If elements did not burn out, then that leaves 1 main suspect: the electricity.

1) Push in ECO red reset button on upper thermostat. If ECO is tripped out, then heater will not work.

2) Click circuit breaker all the way one direction and then back the other direction to make sure breaker is latched.

3) If tank has 2 elements, then it is 240volt.
If 1 leg of 240Volt circuit is not working, then 240V appliance will not work.
240Volt circuit needs both hot wires to complete the circuit:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-EH40-hot-water-heater-timer.html#120-240

Buy cheap multimeter from Home Center and set dial to 240-250-277VAC
Tape tester leads to woods sticks to keep hands away from power.
Power is ON
Test across top 2 screws on upper element should show 220-240 volts.
If you have 240 at top two screws, then skip down to step 6.
If no reading across top two screws, then move to top of tank.

4) Open connection point where wire connects to heater.
Test across both insulated wires should get reading of 220-240 volts.
If no reading, move to circuit breaker box.

5) Mark water heater breaker.
Turn off all breakers except water heater breaker and main breaker. (and breaker to light fixture where box is located)
Do not hold or touch or lean against anything metal.
Stand on dry boards and wear dry clothes.
If main breaker is OFF, the big wires that connect to main breaker are still HOT.

Remove box cover.
240Volt breaker has 2 wires connected with screws.
Test across both screws for 240Volt.
See if wires are loose.
If there is no reading, then breaker is not working on one leg.
To double check, move water heater wires to another same-size 240V breaker and then put ear against water heater to listen for bubbly-fizzing sound.

6) If you are getting 240 to water heater, then wire inside tank could be loose.
Do 30 minute troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer.

Jan 09, 2011 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

1 Answer

Hot water runs out after one shower


You say the hot water runs out after one shower.
You posted under electric heater.

In case you have a gas heater:
With gas heater
, the flame quality could be bad because of restricted air flow or dirty burner, the control valve and thermostat could be bad, the air intake could be clogged, or the water heater is full of sediment and the flame is burning all the time and unable to heat much water.

With electric heater, the lower element is probably burned out and bottom filled with sediment, but thermostats could be bad, or you could have shorted wire.

Narrow down the suspects
If water heater makes some hot water then upper element is working.

Three remaining suspects are upper thermostat, lower thermostat, lower element, and possibly a loose wire

Check screw terminals for signs of burning and loose wires. Especially check lower element.

Let's test lower element.
Turn off power.
Remove both wires from lower element.
Test across both screws with a continuity tester.
Continuity tester is available at hardware store, or you can make one with battery, wire and a flashlight bulb.
d18ee07.jpg
The continuity tester has a battery and when light comes on, it says the circuit is complete.
Test1) Test across both screws on lower element with continuity tester.
If light comes on then element is good, but element has to pass one more test.
Test2) Test each screw on element to any bare metal part of water heater.
If light does NOT come on with second test, then element is good.
Light ON first test. Light OFF second test. Then element is probably good. But test is not fail-proof without using a meter.

I'm betting the lower element is burned out and you need to replace lower element. And you may need to vacuum out the sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

Now if lower element is good, then the easiest thing is to do is replace both thermostats. Buy generic thermostats at hardware store for $25. After replacing both thermostats, the water heater will probably work. If there is still a problem, then the lower element was not as good as test showed, and it should be replaced also.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

If you are still having a problem, answer back and we'll give more details.

Oct 25, 2010 | Rheem 50 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

1 Answer

Installed new upper & lower elements & thermostats, only top htr works


If original problem was caused by sediment burning out lower element, did you clean sediment out of water heater when changing lower element?
Two element water heaters are 240V.
Thermostats cut power on one hot wire, but 240V circuit has 2 hot wires. So lower element has power at all times coming from the red wire.
1) Use ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> test each screw of lower element to bare metal part of water heater. Each screw should show 120V. If there is no power, then upper thermostat is defective, screw on upper thermostat is loose, or red wire between upper and lower parts of water heater is bad.
2) Remove wires from lower element. Use continuity tester or multimeter set to ohms <> test across both screws of element to see if power travels through element <> if element is bad, then continuity tester will not light up and multimeter will show no ohms. Put wires back on element after test.
3) Start with cold water in tank. Turn on water heater & upper element will turn on. Put ear on side of tank to hear if upper element is heating water. Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 240V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 0V.
Put ear on side of tank. When upper element turns off: Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 0V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 240V. If this test shows 0V and 0V, then upper thermostat is bad. If reading is correct, immediately move to next test.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Thermostats-numbered-divided-500.jpg
4) Turn temp on lower thermostat to 150. Using ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> Test across both screws of lower element. If there is no reading, and you know element is good from step 2, then lower thermostat is bad, or wire is bad between lower element and lower thermostat, or wire is bad between lower thermostat and top part of heater.
5) Test across both lower thermostat screws, should read 240V.If this test is good, it means wires are good. Put jumper wire across both screws of lower thermostat, and test lower element again. If element finally turns on with jumper wire, then lower thermostat is bad.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

If wire is bad between upper and lower parts of water heater, and water heater has tight-fitting 2" foam insulation, it usually indicates water heater replacement.

Sep 20, 2010 | Rheem 50 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

2 Answers

Test procedure for elements and thermostat


Remove upper and lower access panels
in upper access, use voltage tester to test voltage of on the uppermost terminals above the red reset button. should be ~220V between terminals (110 to ground)
If not: breaker off or bad,
If 220V proceed:
Test the two terminals immediately below this reset button should be 220V
If not: reset tripped or bad
If 220V present, proceed.
Turn off breaker to heater.

Use ohm meter or continuity tester.
test resistance across upper element terminals -should be 10 to15 ohms
check between each terminal and ground -should be open circuit .
If not replace element
Repeat for lower element.

test across lower element thermostat should be no resistance when stat turned up so it clicks on.
(To test that lower stat turns off, allow tank to heat up completely before conducting this test) Turn sta temp down so it clicks off then test across stat terminals -should be open circuit

The upper thermostat is a 3 way switch
The simplest way to test it is to turn the power back on turn the upper stat all the way up so it clicks on and use voltage tester across the UPPER element terminals, should be ~220V
Now turn the upper stat down so it clicks off- check upper element should be 0 V between upper element terminals -(Caution ! terminals will still be live 110V to ground)
The upper stat has now sent power to lower stat.
Turn lower stat up so it clicks on, check Voltage across lower element -should be ~220V turn lower stat down so clicks off, should be 0 V across lower element terminals.

NOTE If tank is completely cold the upper stat will not switch off and wont send power to lower stat.
If lower tank is cold lower stat may not click off even when turned down.
normal stat setting is 125 to 130
The hotter you you set the stat, the faster your tank corrodes.

Apr 09, 2010 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

1 Answer

Will run but will not heat up


Most likely a bad heating element and or bad thrmostats. you'll need to check these by ohming out after removing the rear panel to your dryer.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

2 Answers

Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat


it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

Jun 28, 2008 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

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