HDLP61W151YX2 Aperture I corrected the dark corner issue this was having by taking the aperture mirrors off the color wheel assembly and rebuilding them to rectangular. Now the screen is approximately 1.5 inches up from the bottom of the screen, where to I need to adjust to correct this? I would be glad to detail the steps that I took to perform this action, as this appears to be a common problem... Thanks in advance.

First, check if you're taking the lens cap off. If you're taking it off, then check your exposure. See if your light meter responds to changes in illumination. If everything seems fine, then check if the aperture of the lens works as intended. Then, without a lens nor film in bulb mode, check for the mirror and shutter to work properly. If the light meter, aperture, mirror or shutter seem to flaw, then get your camera serviced by an experienced camera repair technician.

Don't know what exactly the issue is, but digital cameras these days all have a setting to adjust the aperture. If a picture is dark, you can change the setting to have the aperture open for longer (this lets more light in). It wouldn't be an automatic setting, unfortunately, but this is something you have to do anyways when its dark outside and you are taking pictures at night. Just make sure you steady the camera (if the aperture is open for very long, then you may need a tripod) when taking the picture or else it will be blurry.

First, the "r06" message is NOT an error code. It indicates the number of shots remaining in the internal memory buffer, before the camera must prevent additional shutter actuations so that it may transfer those images already in the buffer to the memory card. This "r" number will decrease with each shot taken in rapid succession until it reaches 0. The shutter release will no longer work until the buffer is transferred to the memory card, then shooting may continue again.

As far as not being able to even see through the viewfinder, it sounds like something may be obstructing the light from reaching the meter and viewfinder. The problem is most likely the position of mirror inside the camera body. With the lens off the body, the mirror should be plainly visible at about a 45 degree angle to the opening. A side view drawing of this is below. The solid red line is the mirror in the normal position. The red dashed line is the up position of the mirror when the shutter is released.



When the mirror is in the "normal" position, the light from the lens is projected on a screen so that the image is visible in the viewfinder for composing and can be metered. When in the "up" position (when the shutter release is fully depressed), the light from the lens is projected on the camera's sensor for as long as set by the manual settings or program; based on ISO, aperture, etc. At the end of this time, the mirror returns to the "normal" position.

If your D100's mirror is not in the lowered 45 degree angle position, the image seen in the viewfinder is inside the camera - not that which the lens would project. Hence, the dark viewfinder, long exposure times and - I'm guessing - severely overexposed pictures because way too much light is striking the sensor because the meter is only seeing darkness.

If the mirror is ok, with the lens removed from the body, look for the aperture lever as shown in the yellow circle in the picture below:



By default, the aperture is at minimum. The camera moves the lever from this position to full open (and anywhere between) as needed. You should gently move the lever to the other end of its travel to open the aperture to maximum. Point the lens away from a light source but preferably at a light colored background. Look through the lens. There should be no obstructions and be clear. Next, look at a dark colored background to find the same results. If you want, you can even allow sunlight to shine through the lens onto a sheet of paper (like a magnifying glass). The result should be a bright circle with no obstructions. Obstructions in the lens will prevent the meter in the camera from getting accurate information about the scene and if significant enough, prevent viewing through the viewfinder.

You may wish to have the camera & lens professionally cleaned and serviced to repair a mirror or lens issue.

If this was helpful, please rate it as such. Good luck!

Hi dear pmorala
1) check the lens if to drive the diaphragm actuating lever that opens.
2) also check the aperture lever on the camera body may be broken or bent.
3) look at the Shutter release the mirror and shoot the camera in a low speed (M mode) note if this works correctly or some of the leaves that make up the curtain is loose or out of place.

Everything seems fine ... OK command dial to select the full aperture, shoots the camera at you and see the diaphragm (set M mode and speed sh bellow 1 / 8). Full closed? = Aperture Mechanism defective.

Regards

I think the aperture is not shutting down to the opening you set it to. In an SLR, the aperture is normally fully open for viewing through the lens. When you press the button, the mirror flips up and the aperture closes to the figure you have set, then the shutter fires. If you have set a daytime aperture and the aperture sticks, you get a wide open aperture and an overexposed shot, but at night, you have set an open or almost open aperture anyway.

It is possible that the shutter is the problem, but the aperture is more likely to go wrong in my experience. It only takes a drop of oil on the blades. There ought to be a button or lever to shut the aperture down for depth of field preview which you could use to test this, or just look in the lens when the shutter fires to see if the aperture closes.

Try cleaning the contacts on the lens and camera body where they meet with a cotton swab lightly dampened with rubbing alcohol.

Here's a link to the N75 / F75 user guide. The troubleshooting section / lens compatibility area might point to the problem. If the viewfinder is dark, the mirror is likely stuck in the UP position. This is usually due to a lens compatibilty issue, or the fact that the lens is not set to its smallest aperture (ie 22). The camera needs that to control the full range of aperture openings

From your description, Yes. All RB67 lenses have common problems, usually sticky blades. Since there are 2 sets of blades, (shutter and aperture), the shutter blades may be contaminated with oil/debris

Thanks for the picture - that's a big help.
It looks you have the dreaded light tunnel collapse common to all LG DLP TV's. Inside the light engine there is a square tube made up of four mirrors. These mirrors deform and crack with the heat of the lamp. They fall down over the light aperture and cause a shadow of varying degrees. It is fixable now at a realistic price ( used to have to replace engine) as LG have made the parts available. It would take a competent tech around three hours to complete or if you are technically minded you could do it yourself. I hope this helps.
Hope Ya Fix It!

Lens fully closed so viewfinder is dark and secondly your auto focus will not work either in this condition ( not enough light reaching the sensor at the bottom of the mirror box ). Problem is the aperture control mechanism called 'the base plate set' situated next to the mirror box in the body , which is faulty. This can be repaired but requires removing of the mirror box so that you can access the small drive which has a faulty gear and which drives the aperture mechanism. I charge +- $150 to repair this common problem.