First problem found was evaporator had iced up after thawring and restarting unit it takes a long time to get cold in the freezer even though the evaportor gets cold straight away the fan on the evaporator works temp in the freezer reaches about 18Deg F
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If your evaporator is not completely frosting over (top to bottom) this normally means the unit doesn't have a proper charge or the compressor can't pump all the freon as it needs to. I would check the charge, this should read "0", if less not enough, if higher than the compressor is failing. I hope this helps.
Hello Claire Trancoso - If the refrigeration side is the one with the issue, you need to check the damper door/switch that is between both doors. In side by side units this damper controls the cool air from the freezer to come over to the refrigeration side to cool it.Contact a professional technician to diagnose if the unit has a floating restriction, an issue with the evaporator fan or a possible air leak.
Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.
If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...
Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
As insignificant as it may seem, that evap fan motor is as important as petrol in a car. That fan controls the fridge cooling on many fridges and circulation in tha freezer compartment. Replace it with the correct one and you should see a functional fridge/ freezer again. Note, i wouldnt run unit without it for long, as condensig temperatures run high and compressors dont last long.
Light usage in a cool kitchen will reduce ice production substantially.
When the ice maker harvests, it turns on a calrod unit located on it's bottom, that frees the cubes, and as well the heat from the calrod heats up an internal thermostat in the ice maker to a temperature in excess of 70 degrees.
Then it stays at rest, until the cycle thermostat reaches 12 to 14 degress and then performs another harvest cycle.
If the machine runs little, and the fan in the freezer is not circulating cold air, the harvest times will be extended.
Turning the freezer colder will always help.
There is a possibility, the thermostat in the ice maker is out of calibration, and the ice maker needs replaced. But try the settings first, and give it a week or two, before calling for service.
You have a lot iof time under warranty to resolve this issue.
It is time to replace your icemaker. The best place I have found to get them is at Lowes. They are above 100 dollars everywhere else but they are 49.99 at Lowes. The part number is IM115. Just let the guy in appliances know you need an icemaker for a Frigidaire unit.
Using the process of elimination, I restarted the unit a couple of more times and noticed a clicking sound from the compressor. I realized it was definately the compressor or one of its components. I purchased a "3 in one connector". Which in 75% of the time it will take care of the relay, capacitor etc. I turned it back on and it worked for about one minute. That told me that it was the compressor itself. This is a Frigidaire and they were made to look good not to be serviced ! This unit is less than seven years. It has been serviced three times. It goes out today when the new one comes in.
Service people shun away when they hear that you have a Frigidaire. They are almost impossible to service. My next step is to locate a servicable refrig. and a model that I like. You learn from experience. I loved my first Frigidaire but that was back in the late 70's. They used to be GM, Frigidaire. Now the government owns them. The quality is no longer there and they lost me as a customer for good!
I hope that this has helped someone solve a problem. Remember, if you think that it is somthing to do with your compressor you may be able to fix it with a "3 in one connector". Find an appliance parts dealer in your neighborhood. The site that I saw online was very expensive. Look around and price things out. The store may even take back the part that you bought, if it does not solve the problem, for a restocking fee. Much less than the cost of the part. So ask questions first! Good luck...
Make sure nothing is inhibiting air flow. I don't think it is advisable to store food in an ice machine however that is not likely the problem unless the food itself is inhibiting air flow. Most ice machine manufacturers recommend against storing any food in an ice machine. If there is a freezer component in you model the check to see if the evaporator coils are frosting up and the frost is blocking airflow causing the ice storage chamber to get warm. High humidity can cause frosting. Leaving a door to the ice maker open too long can cause frosting. A low refrigerant charge can do this although it seems logically like it should not. With a very slightly low charge one end of the evaporator gets super cold and the other end is not cold enough. Frosts starts collecting on the super cold end and accumulates across the evaporator coil to the other end eventually blocking all air flow. With too much humidity from open doors frost accumulates over the entire evaporator evenly but still blocks. You shut the unit down. It thaws out and works OK on restart until frost again builds up. If its not a frosting problem but it just stops making ice then the ice may not be releasing. Check the water supply and change any filters to insure good water flow. A good water supply is required for proper release and harvest of the ice in many ice machines. If the ice doesn't release it takes a shut down and thaw to clear the suspended ice out. Check for these things and write back if you need further assistance and can provide me with more details.
Same problem with Frigidaire Gallery model#GLRT182SAW5 (dated 2002 on back of case)
Vents were blocked with ice. Vents (from top compartment to lower) located behind light. You can check by poking a chopstick up the (2) holes; be careful not to hit fan blades.
- took freezer coil cover off in back; checked that defrost heater element was working (marked and rotated the timer in the hole next to light); checked that fan working. Found ice in the vents and defrost drip area. Got it out with hair dryer.
- cleaned compressor coils in back (check fan is rotating; also tweaked some of the compressor tubing bends to make them more smooth - read somewhere about a manufacturing defect ...); blew out drip tube from defroster while down there.
- Set the freezer control to WARM and the refrig control to COLD (THIS SHOULD IMPROVE AIR FLOW FROM TOP TO BOTTOM).
- Put thermometers in top and bottom. Checked that refrigerator cycles (not running continuously). Checked that cold air is coming down from (2) vents behind light.
OK: so far, so good. Lower compartment is 40 or under. Top is under 18.
CONCLUSION: Suspect marginal design. Had problems with another similar model where defroster ice doesn't drain correctly, pools and refreezes. Leading to blocked vents as well as blocked defroster drain and similar problem including dripping water from top to bottom and warm bottom.
MAYBE KEEPING THE FREEZER CONTROL AT WARM GETS AROUND THE PROBLEM?? ANYWAY, ITS WORKING FOR ME FOR NOW !!