WORKED FINE FOR 6 YEARS. STOPPED REFRIDGERATING DURING PERIOD OF LOW USE - FURNISHED BUT VACANT HOUST. POWER TO UNIT GOOD. LIGHTS ON. COILS CLEAN. FAN RUNS. DON'T KNOW IF COMPRESSOR RUNS. CIRCULATED AIR IS NOT COOLED. OBVIOUSLY NO ICE PRODUCED. TRIED TURNING OFF FOR 2 DAYS THEN TURNED BACK ON AT MID TEMP SETTINGS - NO CHANGE; NO COOLED AIR BEING CIRCULATED. THIS IS A WHIRLPOOL SIDE BY SIDE, 25.4 CU FT, ICE COLLECTOR & DISPENSOR IN DOOR, MODEL GD5SHAXLT02, SN 4591203 REFRIDGERATOR. HAS NOT BEEN MOVED EXCEPT WHEN PURCHASED AND T0O CLEAN FROM BEHIND UNIT.

It sounds like that unit is connected to a "power saving load controller" device from the power company. The power company can turn your unit on & off with a radio signal. If you manually activated contactor and unit ran. I would bet that the power company's device or the wiring connecting it is where the problem lies. Call the power company and have them check their device. If they tell you that the device has been tested remotely and is working fine. Explain to them that you can activate your unit manually and it works fine. They should not charge you to come out. Those "load controller devices" have a pretty good longevity record.

When you are talking about "indicators" we could assuming that your are refer about signal lights. This work with "flashers" devices.

For 1996 Audi A4 2.8L SFI 6cyl the Flasher is located in front seating area, driver side, under dash, behind dash lower panel, mounted above driver side of steering column.

About generic fuses, open the driver side door. Remove panel on left side of dash. Fuse box is behind panel:

Fuse # / Description / Amps
1 / Heated washer jets / 5
2 / Turn signals flasher unit / 10
3 / Headlight washer, illumination of glove compartment, engine compartment, climate control, automatic transmission, instrument cluster / 5
4 / License plate light / 5
5 / Instrument cluster, seat heating, test connection for cruise control, bulb monitor for auto-check control, Automatic transmission display, switch lighting, mirror switches and actuators, airbag warning light, outside temperature indicator, Climate control / 10
6 / Central locking system / 5
7 / Anti-lock brake system / 10
8 / Vacant
9 / Mirror heating / 10
10 / Vacant
11 / Cruise control (automatic transmission) / 5
12 / On board diagnostic system / 10
13 / Brake lights / 10
14 / Interior lights, reading lights, anti-theft alarm system, vanity mirror / 10
15 / Instrument cluster, power windows, climate control, automatic transmission / 10
16 / Anti-lock brake system, Anti-Slip-Regulation / 5
17 / Heated door locks / 10
18 / High beam right / 10
19 / High beam left / 10
20 / Low beam right / 15
21 / Low beam left / 15
22 / Tail and side marker right / 5
23 / Tail and side marker left / 5
24 / Wiper and washer system / 25
25 / Blower for heating, climate control / 30
26 / Rear window defogger, mirror heating / 30
27 / Rear window wiper / 15
28 / Fuel pump / 15
29 / Engine timing / 20
30 / Sun roof / 20
31 / Tail lights, cruise control, automatic transmission / 15
32 / Engine timing / 20
33 / Cigarette lighter / 15
34 / Engine timing / 15
35 / Trailer receptacle / 30
36 / Fog lights / 15
37 / Radio / 20
38 / Luggage compartment light, central locking system / 15
39 / Emergency flasher / 15
40 / Horn / 25
41 / Anti-lock brake system / 25
42 / Vacant
43 / Vacant
44 / Seat heating / 30

Hope this helps (remember to rate and comme this free answeer).

Hi!!

A warm condenser is usually a sign of:

Temp. control for freezer set too low.
Timer switch defective
Defective Thermostat
Low refrigerant
Faulty compressor, capacitor or thermal switch
Condenser Fan at bottom back or unit not working.
Condenser clogged up or dirty (air not circulating thru it)

Due to the equipment and expertise needed to repair the unit, I suggest to call a refrigeration technician.

Don't forget to rate this post!! Good Luck!!

It means the car has low traction, such as spinning on gravel, or in wet grass. I listen several cases with this problem, with the light on constantly after I had new tires put on.

The low traction and ABS systems work together. The most likely cause, is 1 of 2 things:
1: Broken wiring on any of the 4 wheel sensors. They operate using a magnetic pickup coil and toothed rotor, that for the front wheels is part of the hub assy. It happens due to age or vibration, and in winter ice can build up, as well as if you run over objects that will pull the wiring.
2: Wiring shorting out, for the same reasons in cause 1 stress, or even if the pickup coil should break or rub against the frame or wheel hub.
Using an ohm meter is the best way to check them. The vehicle will need to be placed on a lift, and all of the wheels removed, or if your a DIY then one at a time each jacked, and placed on jack stands and wheels removed to gain access to the backside of the hubs. Bend the tab and disconnect the plug to gain access.


Measure across the pins going into the hub, should produce a resistance, typically around 20 ohms but the key is that it measures the same on each sensor. Then measure it also between either wire to ground (hub itself) should be infinite.


Beyond that will require the module (TCS) located near the master cylinder unit of the brakes, be either serviced or replaced. GM states to re-train it that you disconnect your battery for a period of time, usually overnight.


If you perform that, you will find the low traction goes thru a learning period.


During that period, I advise to drive into sand or snow, watch the dash while doing a very short acceleration enough to cause mild wheel slippage, in which the front brakes will apply themselves, causing low traction light to come on. Once it learns that the wheels are not out of control, it will stay off. During the training period it will light up, mainly at takeoff from a full stop. Once it figures out things, it should not come on during normal driving.

Good luck (remember rated).

First check your filters to make sure they are clean and you have proper airflow.

If they are clean, then you either have low refridgerant or dirty coils.

The outside coils can easily be cleaned by disconnecting power to the unit, then using a water hose to spray off the dirt, grass, etc.

The inside coild can be very difficult to get to on some units and require a special evaporator coil cleaner. As for adding refridgerant, the Law requires one to be certified for purchasing or working with refridgerant so you may need to call a service tech for that. Expect a bill from $100 to $225 for a typical system recharge depending on how low it is and which company you call.

Clean the outside and inside coils and filter. This could be an air flow problem

First check and clean the filters, and the evaporator coil. (thats the "inside" coil that has the indoor air sucked through it, cooling it and then pushing it out the vents.

If the filter is clogged or the coils are dirty, it will not cool properly and potentially freeze up.

Also check the condensor (outdoor) coil, if it is dirty/clogged, it will run hot and not cool properly.

If all coils and filters are clean, and the fan motors are running and in good condition and it is still not cooling then you are likely low on refridgerant. (handling/purchasing refridgerant other than R134A requres a CFC certification by law)

Sounds like thatyou refrigerator has leaked out the refrigerant. If you have a condenser i.e. cage on the back , place your hand over it and see if it is warm if it is not then if deffinaltey the gas.

this is not a diy job and you will need an engineer with relevant qualifications..

hope this helps

cheers wash doctor

This unit has a pickup in the distributor that tells the coil when to fire. Check to see if you have power at the coil. If yes,connect a test light to the ground side of the coil and have an assistant crank the engine.The test light should flash on and off. If not, you have a problem inside the distributor. The pickup coil or the ignition module are at fault. Good Luck

my water dispencer has a low flow after an initial regular flow. why?