Question about GE Profile Harmony DPGT750GC Gas Dryer

1 Answer

No heat and blower doesnt blow

I have a ge harmony gas dryer about 3year old. the machine runs, drum turns but it wont heat up and the blower doesnt blow. prior to not working it had this problem intermitently a few times. to fix it we just turned it on again and it worked. today nada.
please help.

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  • 4 more comments 
  • kurthaendel Jan 31, 2008

    hey cool guy,
    i took the harmony apart by removing the front pannel with the door assy. on the lower right is the gas valve assy and behind it is a long sheetmetal tube about 5" in dia. on the side of it are the two thermal fuses i think. i removed the wires and checked for continuity. they both seem fine. also i replaced the other two things attached to the metal tube. rectangle black box with two connectors and a funny looking cermaic thing with two connectors (it looks like a home pregnancy test). still nothing. what is the next step

  • kurthaendel Jan 31, 2008

    can you help me with what the igniter looks like. is it possible to get a drawing e mailed to see where these parts are in the dryer?
    thanks

  • kurthaendel Jan 31, 2008

    hey coolguy,
    ive checked the igniter. it has 256ohms. the range said 50-500. so i think its ok. i then checked the igniter voltage and i appears to have none. while it was running i could hear the gas valve working. i made a high pich hum. i looked over the wireing diagram i have and it look like the flame detector is ok. its in the normaly closed position. the other stuff like relays are under a rubber membrane.
    what next please
    thanks

  • kurthaendel Jan 31, 2008

    ive cleaned the hard metal tube and removed the flexable vent tubing and still have no luck. what would cause no voltage to the igniter.

  • kurthaendel Feb 03, 2008

    i finally got around to testing the gas valve coils. what you described to test is a little diffrent than my set up. i have 3 valves. 1st valve is next to the gas line and is pink and blue wires and reads 1805ohms bolted to the machine and wires off(the diagram calls this one dc valve 2). the other is next to this one and called dc valve 1 it has violet an blue wire and reads 1805ohms also. the third valve i closest to the piolt and called linear valve with black and red wires and reads 61 ohms. ive gone thru and checked everything and i think im down to the valves, blower motor and main computer. please help
    thanks

  • kurthaendel Feb 03, 2008

    how do i rate you? i dont see a spot to click on.

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  • Master
  • 3,422 Answers

Hi,

If one of the two thermal fuses are blown you will not get heat. Thermal fuses blow (and are not resetable, they must be replaced) when the machine gets too hot. Often this is caused by not enough air flow through the machine. Check and make sure your exhaust vent is not clogged. Clean it the best you can to get all the lint, dead mice, bird nests, etc. out. Also make sure air is blowing out of the machine when it is turned on. If not you have a blower problem.
Turn the power off to do this. The thermal fuses are located on the element casing. They each have two wires coming out of them. They are about 3/4 inch round with screw ears on the sides so they are about 1 1/2 inch long and about an inch across. Goodluck, Dont forget to rate me as fixya..

Posted on Jan 30, 2008

  • 6 more comments 
  • Priya darshan Jan 30, 2008

    With a multimeter, check the continuity across the terminals. If there is no continuity the fuse needs to be replaced.

  • Priya darshan Jan 31, 2008

    Check for 120V at the igniter when it is running. If it is there, and
    the igniter is NOT coming on, replace the igniter. IF the igniter IS
    coming on, replace the gas valve coils. Otherwise, check all the
    components in the heating circuit (via wiring diagram). :)


  • Priya darshan Jan 31, 2008

    Alright see these two links u will know what an igniter is and how to check it.

    first

    Second

  • Priya darshan Jan 31, 2008

    pull the vent tube and clean out both the flexible
    tube and the hard metal tube going outside of the house. clean the lint from inside of the unit itself and clean the lint
    trap with a brush. ( use fabric
    softeners)

    Hope atleast this works..

  • Priya darshan Jan 31, 2008

    Now all i can say is check the fuse for continuity..

    I have also got some info i hope this solve ur problem:


    Components:



    Igniter: Line voltage brings the igniter temp to about 2200 degrees F in 30 seconds.

    Radiant Sensor: Works like a thermostat, normally closed, opens when sensing the heat from the igniter or burner flame.

    When cold the radiant sensor contacts are closed and circuit is
    completed to the igniter. When the igniter heats up, the radiant sensor
    senses the heat and the contacts open, breaking the circuit to the
    igniter.

    Gas Valve: The gas valve is 2 valve gas valves in series. This is for
    added safety in case one of the valves fails to seat properly.

    Valve 1 (the closest to the supply pipe) has a split coil solenoid (2
    coils, 1 solenoid and armature). The upper is the holding coil and the
    lower is the booster coil. The power of both coils is required to lift
    the armature. Once the armature is up only the holding coil is required
    to keep it up.

    The second valve has only one coil and is called the secondary coil.



    Operation:



    At the beginning of a cycle, the sensor contacts are closed, the igniter is cold and the both gas valves are closed.

    (NOTE) The sensor contacts are wired in parallel with the secondary
    coil so current bypasses the secondary coil. As long as the sensor
    contacts are closed the valve can not be open unless the valve itself
    is at fault. However when gas pressure is first applied by turning on
    the gas cock, a small amount of gas may pass though the vent until the
    pressure regulator is balanced.

    The booster coil and igniter are wired in parallel with each other and
    wired in series with the sensor and secondary combined. When the sensor
    contacts are closed full line voltage is available to both the igniter
    and the booster coil. When the sensor contacts are open current must
    flow though the secondary to get to the igniter and booster coil and a
    large voltage drop results across the secondary coil. Even though the
    parallel booster coil and igniter are still in the circuit they are
    ineffective due to the reduced voltage available to them.



    Call for heat: Power is applied to the circuit.



    Step 1: Radiant sensor contacts are closed, the holding coil, booster
    coil and igniter get full line voltage. The holding coil and booster
    have enough power to open valve 1 (first click)and the igniter begins
    to get hot and glow. At this time sine the sensor contacts are closed
    the secondary coil is bypassed so valve 2 remains closed to prevent gas
    from leaving the burner.

    Step 2: The igniter is getting red hot and gas valve 1 is open. As
    the igniter gets hot its resistance decreases. At the same time the
    heat from the igniter causes the radiant sensor contacts to open.

    Step 3: Valve 1 is now held open by the holding coil. The sensor
    contacts are open due to the heat from the igniter. The current paths
    in the circuit change.

    With the sensor contacts open the secondary coil is no longer bypassed
    and is now in series with the parallel combination of the booster coil
    and igniter. Because of the low resistance of the hot igniter, most of
    the line voltage is dropped across the secondary coil. Only a small
    percentage is dropped across the booster coil and igniter. (Sometimes a
    small click as the booster drops out).

    So the secondary coil now opens valve 2 (click 2) releasing gas across
    the still red hot igniter and the gas is ignited on contact. While the
    igniter will cool the tip is still in the flame which is enough to keep
    the resistance low. At the same time the heat from the burner will keep
    the radiant sensor contacts open.

    It the flame goes out the sensor will cool and the contacts will open
    bypassing the secondary coil and valve 2 will close. When power is
    removed from the circuit both valves will close due to gas pressure and
    spring pressure of the armatures.



    Testing the Coils:



    If you look closely at the coils, one has three terminals on it and we
    will test this one first. With the coil out of the dryer and the
    terminals on top facing you, the first terminal on the left is number
    one, the middle is two and the right side terminal is number 3. Using
    your ohm meter, measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 2. You
    should get a reading of 1365 ohms or - 25 ohms. Next, measure the
    resistance between terminals 1 and 3. You should get a reading of 560
    ohms or - 25 ohms. The next coil only has two terminals and it
    should have a resistance of 1220 ohms or - 50 ohms. Keep in mind
    when testing these coils, they should be tested at room temperature.
    If you have run the dryer and they are warm or hot, the resistance
    reading will be different.



    Please don't forget to rate me as fixya if this helped u out to an extent...

  • Priya darshan Feb 03, 2008

    well now i finally want u to call a technician and fix this up bcuz it can be dangerous..


    Plzz do rate me as fixya for my efforts..

  • Priya darshan Feb 03, 2008

    how is that possible ??look at the bottom of the page there are 4 ratings click on fixya the one with BLUE STARS

    plzz reply me again if u are not able to rate me

  • Priya darshan Feb 04, 2008

    write a mail to experts@fixya.com saying them that you are not able to rate me as fixya..

    And tell them to rate it as fixya..

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