I'm cleaning my MTB chain. I removed it from the front chain guard by taking out a screw. Now, it's all kinked up, and I can 't get them out.

Clamp on front mech xt or xtr would be an option, be careful if you need bottom pull or top, cut or grind off bracket on old front mech to reinstall,as this is a spacer as well as a mounting bracket ,bit old school but older front mechs are best

To replace the brake band do as follows, remove the bar nuts and take the brake away from the saw, engae the brake to remove as much tention off the internall spring by pushing the hand guard fully forward, remove the allen screw securing the hand guard, do not remove the e clip and pin from the hand guard, tap out the pivot collers and remove the hand guard, remove the cross head screws securing the spring cover, carefully remove the spring from under neath, tap out the silver pivot pin from the knee link activating arm, use a puch from the other side of the brake to remove the roll pin securing the other end of the band, with the band out remove the screw securing the band to the knee link, install the knee link to a new brake band, re fit the roll pin in the band and re fit into the cover, insert the spring, this will have to be compressed to get it back in, re fit the spring cover, you need now to load the brake, fit the hand guard onto the cover, insert a conical puch through the hand guard and cover to enable you to pivot the hand guard back and load the brake, now fit the hand guard properly onto the cover and re fit the collors and screws.

Take off your chain guard, should be 2 bolts holding the chain bar in place. Then make sure there isnt another bolt or screw you missed, pop off cover put chain on, replace chain guard and tighten chain. It should be that simple

The brake on this machine is a knee link design, this is an over centre catch, if there is excessive dirt under the over centre mechanism it will not lock properly and so come on prematurley, you need to remove the brake from the machine, activate the brake to release most of the spring tention,remove the hand guard fixing screw and collers, remove the hand guard carefully remove the screws securing the spring cover, be aware there is a compression spring under here, inspect the internal components, clean out any accumulated dirt and debris, replace the cover and hand guard, load the brake by pulling the hand guard fully back, the other option is to just replace the complete brake assembly part no. 530054740

The chain brake is activated, if the hand guard is connected to the brake cover, carefully clamp the brake in a vice ( be careful not to damage the cover ) now pull the hand guard fully back until the brake clicks off, if the hand guard is on the saw itself, remove the two screws and remove the hand guard, use this as a tool to fit into the brake and load it.

It sounds like the chainbrake has activated, the band is now smaller that the drum, clamp the brake in a vice, be carfull not to damage the cover, remove the two screws holding the hand guard to the machine and remove, now insert the hand guard into the quadrant in the brake, pull the hand guard fully back to de activate the brake, it will take some force as it is compressing a large internal spring, the other way to do it is to remove the clutch and sprocket, re fit the brake onto the saw and use the hand guard to load the brake, pull it fully back toward the rear of the saw until it clicks and loads, now re fit the clutch and sprocket.

For the wide range of gearing on a MTB, the rear derailleur has to be able to adjust a large amount. If you shift into the smallest front chainwheel and the smallest cog on the rear (position 1), you'll probably see the chain is very loose and the rear derailleur is pointed back horizontally. Conversely, if in the largest front chainwheel and the largest rear cog, the derailleur will be pointed forward (position 2)
Couple things to do: 1) Avoid the gearing combination of the smallest cogs. Instead, use the middle chain ring and a larger cog (you'll have the same net gear ratio). 2) You can remove a link from the chain. A chain tool is about $10.00. You push the pin out through all but the last plate on two links, bend the chain slightly to pop those 2 links out (2 links = a wide link + a narrow link), then put the chain back together. This is only advisable if in position 2 there is some additional travel for the derailleur and in position 1, the derailleur has no additional travel. 3) Make sure your chainrings aren't bent, straighten (use a open-end wrench and gently pull the chain ring back to flat). This isn't likely b/c you don't indicate the chain falls off while shifting. 4). If the chain falls of the inside, screw in about 1/4 turn the inner limit screw on the front deraillleur. If the chain falls off the outside, screw in about 1/4 to 1/2 turn the outer limit screw on the front derailleur.

Hi, you need to remove the plastic guard on the side, held in place by a nut and a screw. Replace the chain around wheel and chain guard, loosen tightening screw, replace plastic conver, and tighten tightening screw. Make sure you have the chain the right way round, there is usually a small diagram showing this. Hope this helps

Try to soak it in Diesel fuel that will clean any small dirty between links and will lubricate chain.