Smell coming from oven when isolation switch is turn on. This oven has 2 fans. when the isolation switch is turned on, the cooling fan starts up even if the controls are turned off. There is an arc from the main cooking fan which is the smell. This still happens when the active wire is disconnected.
If you are getting power on the neutral that usually means the neutral is open (broke). To confirm this check the voltage on your 2 hot leads. You may need to check the voltage when the oven is on. You may find high voltage on one leg and low voltage on the other. The high voltage would fry a fan (so would low voltage for that matter). I hope this helps. Sorry I don't know more.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Inspect the heating element , if there is a hole blown grey colour slightly at the hole or could be a black rim around it as if its been heated too much in one place, a tester is required if no visible signs shown, continuity through the element should be achieved , if no continuity replace it , also inspect the switch and any wiring if the wiring is burnt one of the regulators will have a problem. Parts for most ovens can be obtained from espares.co.uk
Hope this is helpful
Oven: power comes in, goes to overtemp > timer > function switch > thermostat > element then back to neutral fan & light come on with function or thermostat switch. what else do you need to connect? Oh, hotplates. Power in > infinite switch > hotplate and indicator then back to neutral. Watch out for two phase with indicator light.
ISOLATE MAINS POWER BEFORE WORKING ON THIS APPLIANCE
Remove the back of the oven check temp controller before replacing or buying element, as this can often stop any heat being produced. The element is in front of the fan, if this model is fan assisted, remove fan, after removing element inspect to see any small hole in metal, if you see a large hole more than 10mm , this could be a sign that the fan needs cleaning. Clean fan with WD40, do not switch oven on untill fan has dried off. Then replace element, switch oven on low with door open, if you feel slight heat, go for a full test, gradually build up heat, keep on for at least 30 mins, make sure the oven reaches temp, you can expect some smell from a new element, this is protective oil, and considered normal.
Blower mtr would be a good start will it sit there until you turn on the power toggle switch.You could isolate the blwer mtr by un wiring directly at mtr.Beware there is a few wires in the junction one set of those wires are for the centrifugal switch(ie the fan has to be runnin for the oven to lite)
the unit is 240 volts not 120 volts/its ok to have the wht and green tied together so long as it comes directly from the house main panel/new law in some places require them to be separate/wht=Neutral/Green=safety grd to case...now how many watts does this unit draw? 2/12 wires sound awful small for the input current/sounds like you need to upgrade to atleast 2#6 wires for power/1#8 for neutral and atleast a #10 for safety ground
1:I would suggest removing the back panel and checking the wires to the motor to see if any terminals have broken/fallen off(on the Zanussi ovens you should be able to see these easily).Also check that the armature can spin freely.
2:If OK, Switch isolator and stove back on and check for voltage (230v) to these terminals.
3:If No 1&2 solutions have not solved your problem please come back to me.
Hope I have resolved you question, but please leave positive feedback if so , as it still takes time to answer questions and it would just be nice to know if I have helped.
Your new oven utilizes 220 volts, but it also has some 110 volt features that need a neutral to work properly. Your old oven was wired without the neutral, probably when the house was built. There are 2 answers to your question. #1, no you should have an isolated neutral or common (same thing) wire, so it should have one. #2, if you connect the white on the new oven to the ground wire it will work. The neutral wires are all connected to the grounds at the breaker panel. Look at it if you don't believe me. The ground is there as a safety to you. if you connect the neutral (the white wire on the new oven to ground) you will be eliminating the safety feature on that appliance. So, I do not recommend you connect the white wire on your new oven to the ground wire out of the wall. But if you do it will work, you will just not have any back up protection if there ever is a problem with the electrical on that appliance. I hope this wasn't too confusing, the answer is you will need to wire the oven properly by adding another wire if you want to be completely safe and within electrical codes.