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Re: power up to turn on
Your amp may be on it's way out due to an overload situation. When connecting speakers in parallel, calculate the total impedance (load on the amp) by dividing the ohms of one speaker by the total number of speakers, assuming they’re all the same. When in series, add them up.
If you go below the ohm rating of the amp (say, you connect 4 speakers in parallel and they’re each rated at 4 ohms, the total load is 1 Ohm and amp is rated at 2 ohms), you going to blow the amp eventually. When in doubt, connect in series. You won’t get as much sound, but at least you’ll still have an amp to power them!
In your case, you can use a series/parallel connection. This means using the speakers in pairs. Connect the + of one speaker to the - of another, and use the remaining + and - to connect to the amp, and do the same for the other pair. Make sure you connect each pair exactly the same.
You can try this now and see what happens. Hopefully the amp isn't too far gone and connecting in series/parallel will help, but if it doesn't, then you'll need to get your amp fix and be more careful next time.
Hope this helps, and please rate my advice.
Thank you, and good luck!!
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amps and wiring kits are very optimistic on the output. If you want proper wire, buy some welding cable "0" or "00" guage. That solves the power delivery. Put a 1 Farrad (or more) capacitor near the amp, that solves the surge power issue. Make sure the box is suitable for the subs. Lastly I'd say do some research and find the right amp that can deliver the clean, huge current required to move some serious air!
CVR series do not have large power handling capabilities. Your subs will melt before the amplifier is used to its full potential. If the subs arent in a ported enclosure - do that. They both handle 500w rms - so the pr1000 is perfect. bass response is all in the enclosure!
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Sounds like the amps needing more current available to it-You should have 4 gauge power coming off the battery going into a distribution block from there a 4 gauge to a 1 farad capacitor off the block -4 gauge to the ground for the capacitor -and two + leads from the block to your amps-you would do well with 6 gauge there.- That is to ensure that you have plenty of power on tap when needed and not trying to draw it off your charging system on heavy current demands.Make sure that your grounds are well placed and solidly connected. As for putting 600+watts on a pair of 8z......i hope that they are the CVR or the L5 / L7 series to take that much power,I've seen it done and the ones i heard sounded badass(L7 series)-but that was at the stereo shop so they had they stuff on HITTN status up in there. If your running the "cvr" or the "comp" series you might be throwing too much power on them -might want to step up your subs to a set of 12s just to get more air moving in there- good luck
How you wire it depends on how hard you want drive your amp. If your woofer runs 4ohm per coil I would wile it in series (amp +to sub +1 sub -1to sub +2 amp - to sub -2) then run it for a week and see if it has enough power. the lower your Impedance (the resistance load on the amp) the harder your amp works and more THD (noise) is produced. (Dclass amps aren't know for being clean to begin with) configured like this your amp will see 8ohms and sound the clean east. if this turns out to be not enough power wire it in parallel and double the output. wire amp + to sub +1 and +2 then amp - to sub -1 and -2.
A word to the wise... start with your volume very low and work up slowly most speakers will puk up the voice coil before the amp starts to get warmed up. you would hate to have to buy a new sub.