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Re: power up to turn on
Your amp may be on it's way out due to an overload situation. When connecting speakers in parallel, calculate the total impedance (load on the amp) by dividing the ohms of one speaker by the total number of speakers, assuming they’re all the same. When in series, add them up.
If you go below the ohm rating of the amp (say, you connect 4 speakers in parallel and they’re each rated at 4 ohms, the total load is 1 Ohm and amp is rated at 2 ohms), you going to blow the amp eventually. When in doubt, connect in series. You won’t get as much sound, but at least you’ll still have an amp to power them!
In your case, you can use a series/parallel connection. This means using the speakers in pairs. Connect the + of one speaker to the - of another, and use the remaining + and - to connect to the amp, and do the same for the other pair. Make sure you connect each pair exactly the same.
You can try this now and see what happens. Hopefully the amp isn't too far gone and connecting in series/parallel will help, but if it doesn't, then you'll need to get your amp fix and be more careful next time.
Hope this helps, and please rate my advice.
Thank you, and good luck!!
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amps and wiring kits are very optimistic on the output. If you want proper wire, buy some welding cable "0" or "00" guage. That solves the power delivery. Put a 1 Farrad (or more) capacitor near the amp, that solves the surge power issue. Make sure the box is suitable for the subs. Lastly I'd say do some research and find the right amp that can deliver the clean, huge current required to move some serious air!
CVR series do not have large power handling capabilities. Your subs will melt before the amplifier is used to its full potential. If the subs arent in a ported enclosure - do that. They both handle 500w rms - so the pr1000 is perfect. bass response is all in the enclosure!
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It's possible that the sub is blown, but it may be something else. You did not specify how the subs are wired to the amp, how many channels on the amp, or whether or not the CVR's are in separate enclosures. These specifics will affect how you isolate the problem.
1) Check all of the wiring: RCA's from head unit to amp, speaker wiring from amp to sub. Make sure there are no breaks in the insulation and that the wire does not come in contact with another wire or metal parts on the vehicle.
2) Remove the nonworking sub from the enclosure and check the wiring from sub to terminal inside. While you have the sub out, check the "braided" wires going from the sub terminals to the cone.
3) Reverse the wiring from the amp to the subs to see if the problem moves to the right sub. That will tell you the problem is not in the sub.
4) If the left sub still fails with the amp channels flipped, you find no wiring defects, and you can't see any physical damage, test the sub voice coil with a multimeter. Set the meter to read "ohms" on the lowest scale. The actual reading should be a little less than the rated impedance. If the subs are 4 ohm, the meter should read about 2-3 ohms. If the meter reads "0" (pegs) or if it reads "infinity" (no reading at all), the sub voice coil is bad.
Are these Dual Voicecoil Subwoofers? Are there 4 terminals on each sub for wires?
If they are Dual 4 ohm voicecoil subwoofers
- connect both + on subwoofer 1
- connect both - on subwoofer 2
- connect both + on subwoofer 2
- connect both - on subwoofer 1
This will give you a 2 ohm STEREO load.
To get a 1 ohm MONO load...
now connect only one of the + on EACH sub to the + on the amplifier.
and the - on EACH sub to the - on the amplifier.
You now have a 1 ohm mono load.
If your speakers are 4ohm single voicecoils (one pair of terminals) the lowest impedence possible is 2 ohms.
This is wired in the same fashion. Both + on the subwoofers to the + on the amp, and both - on the subwoofers to the - on the amp.
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How you wire it depends on how hard you want drive your amp. If your woofer runs 4ohm per coil I would wile it in series (amp +to sub +1 sub -1to sub +2 amp - to sub -2) then run it for a week and see if it has enough power. the lower your Impedance (the resistance load on the amp) the harder your amp works and more THD (noise) is produced. (Dclass amps aren't know for being clean to begin with) configured like this your amp will see 8ohms and sound the clean east. if this turns out to be not enough power wire it in parallel and double the output. wire amp + to sub +1 and +2 then amp - to sub -1 and -2.
A word to the wise... start with your volume very low and work up slowly most speakers will puk up the voice coil before the amp starts to get warmed up. you would hate to have to buy a new sub.