Motor was initially stuck.... it would humm but not spin. A slap on the motor freed motor....but now it sounds like a fly wheel spinning with no belt connect(?) --- high pitch spinning sound -- still no air? I tried to detach the motor but looks like I will have to basically take the entire hood apart? I was trying to get hold of a schematic to see what the heck is going on with noise as well as how to dettach motor. GE no help and most service people do no work on vents? Any direction on obtaining the schematics of GE Monogram ZV750SY is appreciated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Open the door and check of the Tub spins freely, if so then you have a bad motor and if it does not you could have an object stuck in the blower wheel which is attached to the motor and prevents it from spinning
With most Hotpoint/GE dryers the blower motor is not spin by a belt. The problem is unlikely the blower motor. The problem is lint in the air ducts and in the blower housing. The lint results in overheating and the high limit switch cuts off the power to the heater (burner or element depending on the model). As a result the dryer does not heat up.
Access the heating group and remove lint from the air ducts. Also clean the lint filter.
Hotpoint appliances are built by GE. Below service manuals for different GE-manufactured dryers:
two possibel reasons for this
1, you have something stuck in the blower moter
look down the lint trap you may just be able to see it
2. your motor is going bad
open the door and hold the door switch with tape or something like it
push the button and try to spin the tumbler while you hear the buzz
if it starts up and the buzz goes away,,,, your motors start wionding is gone and you will need to replace the motor
I have the same problem, only worse. The fuse is in the stack above the motor. You have to remove the vent decorative cover (that stainless tube that goes to the ceiling) and the fuse is in the low voltage circuit close to or inside the gray box that looks like a transformer (on the left). Mine blew out and I replaced the fuse, which lasted for about two months. I replaced it again and it lasted two days. Then, I replaced the triac with an NTE5679 (over on the right) (replaces ECG5679) about two years ago, and the fuse lasted until today. I do not know what to do now. We did not touch a switch just before the fuse blew. The fan was not running, but the lights were on. I think I will try a slightly larger fuse, but first I may look at replacing the fuse with a breaker that I can install behind the filters, instead of removing the stack cover every time the circuit goes out. Good Luck to you.
This could also be a loose/poor connection from the control unit. I have had a similar issue. I know it is not thermal overload because sometimes the blower just doesn't come on when you start the car. A slap to the top of the dash board over the temperatures controls has got it going again.
What you need is a new updated computer main board. Thay are fairly cheap and easy to install. My GE Side By Side did the same thing and the new motherboard worked like a charm. I think that this is the one you need but you can email the seller with your model number and he will tell you which one to get WR55X10552 GE Refrigerator Mother Board fits WR55X10335 GOOD LUCK