Both rear wheels are "frozen" onto the axel/brake housing. I am trying to change a flat tire and cannot get the wheel and rim off. The truck is in my heated garage so the "frozen" is not water/ice but appears to be rust? or sand grit. I have tried WD 40 to cut through the rust to to avail. I have changed the tires/wheels on this truck before and not had this problem

Yes the axel must be bent

If the tires are bad i would suggest to start there , may try a ballance on the better tires . As for the squeaking brakes they may be worn out or have dust/rocks in them which can be inspected when you deal with the suspected bad tires

it happens to a lot of us, you need to back off self-adjuster as much as possible, also, make sure the parking brake is not frozen @ the wheel, they all do @ the rear wheels, get a hammer and try to bang around the inside side of the hub rim, don't be gentle, HIT THE DAM THING ! have patience, it will come, use a good flat screwdriver to help pry it off , If I was you , have new brakes, hardware(springs, etc.,) and new parking brake cable for rear wheels, $20 a pc., you will need them.

not sure what type vehicle we're talking about here, although you can lube up the rack and pinion or grease up your upper, if so equipped, and lower ball joints.

do you mean you wish to change the tyre or the complete wheel and tyre ,if the later is the case then if its a aluminium wheel rim it highly probable that its corroded onto the hub and if this is the case then support car with a stand and then hit it on the inside rim with a 7kg hammer but place a block of wood against the rim to prevent damage and when refiting it make sure the boss has a application of copperslip grease .

put tire back on with the lug nuts loose a few turns. drive in a circle to put a side load on the rim. Do not go far or fast!!!

If only the rear tire's are lock, you can still have it towed to your home, set rear of car on jack stands, remove tire, with hammer hit all around brake drum till it breaks loose, used a prie bar on wheel studs, over one and under an other one so you can turn drum.

Sounds like you have a brake or wheel bearing seized on that vehicle, best to let it completely cool off before attempting anything.
jack rear tire and support with jack stand, try turning the tire by hand once its off the ground, if it turns or doesn't turn either way you must pull the wheel and determine what the cause is or was for all that smoke and smell.
Pull the brake drum and check the wheel cylinder for leaks and if it is frozen holding the rear brake locked on that side if it is replace the brakes both rears and wheel cylinders both rears and the appropriate brake drums if they are worn out and heat cracked.
If the brakes appear to be hanging due to the emergency brake hanging up, spray the emergency cables, try to adjust the cables after you replace the brakes, bleed and adjust the system and walla you are safe and sound.
If you have a frozen wheel bearing you must remove the frozen bearing off the rear spindle stub shaft, either bty heat or impact chisel, check spindle for signs of wear if ok just lightly sand with 180 wet/dry paper, pull out the bearing and punch out the inner outer races along with the inner grease seal and replace all five items, repack the bearings and hub with a high temp resistant wheel bearing grease, re install the brake drum re install the hub nut and cotter pin to a proper torque and walla... Happy Motoring!!

wheel rim damaged ?? locating pin for wheel not lined up

Sounds like universal joints going out.