Question about Frigidaire PLEF398AC Electric Kitchen Range

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Frigidaire oven will not heat up

We have a frigidaire (model #PLEF398CCC) convenction oven. The other night while baking and cooking on the stove top, we heard a loud "pop". The next day when I tried to use the oven again, it would not heat up. The oven bake, broil, convection and warming drawer in the bottom all fail to heat at all. I have been looking at other consumer problems and can't figure out whether it is the control board or just a fuse. Any suggestions?

My model number ends in "CCC" not "AC" as listed below.

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  • lorubio Jan 29, 2008

    There are no error codes showing. The display seems to be working fine, just no heat. The range top burners all work fine as well. Thank you.

  • Anonymous Feb 06, 2008

    My oven does not heat up therefore i can't bake. the cooking top and broil works. please help me.

    Thank you.

  • DGSmith Feb 21, 2008

    Last night my wife saw a ball of fire shoot up from behind our Frigidaire Stove, model #PLEF398CCC. The circuit breaker tripped, it was reset, power returned, everything on the front control panel appeared normal and seems to function normally. But the bake and broil funtions of the oven will not work. We have not had the time to troubleshoot further. The stove is four years old... Any ideas would be appreciated.



    Coincidently, our neightbor has the same stove (but without the warming tray) she too experienced seeing a ball of fire shoot up from the back of her oven a week or so ago. She had the same problems plus several other funtions that would not work properly. Her stove is also about four years old. She has been told that she needs to replce the EOC board (clock and control board), approximately $200 parts plus labor. Do you think we found the weak link with this Frigidaire Stove?



    Thanks for your help.

  • lorubio May 07, 2008

    I finally broke down and called a repair man! Guess what? The EOC was burned out. Now I have been waiting 6 weeks for the part to come in - supposedly on back order. This is definitely the weak link in the ovens if that part is such a hot commodity!

  • nopizza May 17, 2008

    My oven also made a pop sound and now the baking or broiling element does not work. I thought I could just replace a fuse, can only find 2 fuses.

  • Big fisher Jun 05, 2008

    My wife ran the clean mode on our Frigidaire model FEB27S7FCB oven. A couple of hours later, we attempted to bake in the oven and neither the bake element nor the broil element would heat. We need ideas about what happened and how to repair it. We have checked our circuit breaker for the oven and it has not tripped. All displays and lights work on the oven.



  • Monica223 Nov 14, 2008

    My oven is not heating therefore, I called Sears out where I purchased the stove from. I no longer have warranty at this point since the stove is about 4 1/2 years old. Well it's the EOC. 299.00 for the part and 153.00 for the labor. This is the first problem I have had with this stove, I had annual check ups and all was good. I'm curios to know how many people have had this same issue.

  • johnoski2kim Nov 26, 2008

    I just brought the stove used and was wondering if I have to light the pilot first????

  • omegand Dec 29, 2008

    I have the same issue with my Frigidaire PLEF398CCC. The EOC or Electronics/Clock/Controller has this part # 316207620. This number is for the ____CCC part number. Also, I have seen the plastic overlay may be required as well since this is glued to the EOC. The overlay part # is 316243301. Shamefull this product has this bad part and Frigidaire should pay to replace.

  • Anonymous Jan 10, 2009

    i have a frigidaire es100 and the oven will not heat up, no codes or anything. the best i can tell it's the "eoc" that has went out on it. i've only had this thing about a year and a half, what a piece of junk, worst money i've ever spent, and it will be a cold day in----- before i buy anything else made by this company!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • jonacat Jan 31, 2009


    • Pretty much the same thing....heard a 'pop', puff of smoke and now the bake nor broil elements will work. I have a slide in unit and there does not appear to be any fuses at all. Looks like the EOC is the problem, does that seem to be the general consensus?

  • DGSmith Mar 08, 2009

    I have had the same problem, it was the EOC board.... The first EOC that I replaced the timer and light fuction failed after the warranty. I have replaced that one now and now I have a spare (without timer/lamp functions)... This is definitely a weak link our Range is only five years old...

  • sockeyemoon Apr 06, 2009

    Our oven (CPLEF398...) shorted out blowing our home's main 100 AMP breaker and causing a big poof behind the stove. Now the oven is dead. The repair guy says the EOC is needing to be replaced. 5 years old and the electronics go - way to go Frigidaire!

  • fitzx5 Apr 26, 2009

    Where is Error F7? I have a Frigidaire PLEF398CCC that is giving an F7 Error but (of coarse) there is no mention of this error here. Clock and burners work fine, oven is dead. Anyone know what F7 means?

  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2014

    can set oven to bake or broil and it indicates it will come on but keeps clicking but not turning on

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Here is a list of error codes that may or may not be displayed by the oven.

Frigidaire Range / Stove / Oven Fault Codes Failure Code Fault Code Description Solution F0 Electronic oven control failure Replace electronic oven control (also called EOC or clock). F1 Electronic oven control failure Replace electronic oven control (also called EOC or clock). F2 Oven temperature too hot Check and replace oven temperature sensor (RTD). F3 Open oven temperature sensor (RTD) Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok. F4 Shorted oven temperature sensor (RTD) Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok. F5 Electronic oven control failure Replace electronic oven control (also called EOC or clock). F6 Electronic oven control failure Replace electronic oven control (also called EOC or clock). F8 Oven door lock failure Check lock relay and door switches.

Posted on Jan 29, 2008

  • lariod Sep 06, 2011

    I have has the same problem with my stove. One minute I was baking and it made a loud popping sound and a big poof of smoke came out and it has not worked since. It seems to be a reoccuring problems with these stoves these EOC boards should have had a recall on them as far as I am concerned.My burners still work fine but my Oven does not work at all.

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We have a Frigidaire Range model PLEF398CCC and, as many others here have mentioned, we saw the puff of smoke and the oven nor the front left burner works. The repairman has to replace a EOC on the back of the control panel and another one in the back on the bottom. The total cost for parts alone is $438 then add in the service call cost. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME we've had an EOC go bad for big bucks. The unit is about 5 years old. We're thinking of filling the landfill with it.

Posted on Aug 15, 2009

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Had the same problem. This solved it for me:

http://www.lazerangle.com/sanna/index.php?option=com_content&view=section&layout=blog&id=6&Itemid=63

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

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Try some of the tests I used on a different model !

INGLIS Royal 100 STOVE F1 F2 F3 ERRORS
Mode lUP 48500 ( thats eye you, not ONE U )

I got the dreaded F3 error on the Display Panel,
every time I pressed BAKE or BROIL, BUT, I could
hear the three relays click in, and then kick out in
sequence, just before the F3 appeared.

I called Westinghouse ( that services INGLIS ) and
was told that F3 " means unpug for 1/2 hour and then
press CLEAR 5 Seconds to reset ". Which is nonsense.

All functions on the clock and timer work fine, and the
three relays were working, so its not a computer problem.
I called service REPAIR companies who said it was the
THERMOSTAT, and replace it - $147.99 ... The Glass tube
of the display is $200 with no circuit board, the relay board
is $300 and the computer/display is $400.

I did tests on the thermostat, first heating it with a propane
lighter, and it raised from 475 Ohms at room temperature,
to 600 ohms, so I knew it was functioning.

Then, I plugged in a variable resistor where the thermostat
plugs in. I went from Zero Ohms resistance to 5000 Ohms in
200 Ohms steps.

Zero Ohms ( equal to burnt out or unplugged) gives you
an immediate F1, which you cannot clear.
From 100 Ohms to 400 Ohms, you get Error F2, which
means thermostat too low.
From 400 Ohms to 665 Ohms there is no error.
At 665 Ohms, the BAKE will beep twice, stating that you
are setting the temperature at or lower than the actual temperature
of the oven ( you cant set the oven at 200, for example, if it is
already at 450 Degrees )
Using this 2 Beep code, I raised and lowered the resistance
and made a graph of the reading on the display versus the
OHMS that the thermostat would send to the controller:
665 Ohms = 170 Degrees Farenheit, which is the
lowest reading in the BAKE MODE.
800 Ohms = 240 Degrees
1100 Ohms = 380 Degrees
1400 Ohms = 500 Degrees, which iis the maximum that
the unit showed in the BAKE MODE.
1430 Ohms to 2750 Ohms, there was no reading, an NO ERRORS.
ABOVE 2750 OHMS, the F1 ERROR appeared again, meaning
thermostat out of range.

Note that the computer module supplies 5 volts DC to the thermostat,
to see the changes in current with changing resistance.
You can easily check the thermostat to see if it is OK, with an
Ohmeter across the thermostat, which should read about 475 Ohms
at room temperature. If it reads Zero, it is burnt out. If it reads
over 2750, it is defective. Check to see if the thermistor in the
tube is SHORTED to the steel outter case as well, as this should be
infinite ohms ( no contact )- if it reads ZERO it is shorted to case.

I found that on the Internet, there are hundreds of people looking for
the F3 code for the ROYAL 100 ( model number IUP 48500 )
and a general search shows that for 400 " other" models of all kinds,
F3 = REPLACE THERMOSTAT ! Not on this model, and all typical searches
for technical support or diagrams or troubleshooting did not even list
the Royal 100 AT ALL, as if it never existed.

I then did tests on the relay board, and replaced the capacitors, a few diodes,
some resistors that were a bit out of value, and two transistors that were
a bit out of value. There was no change in F3.

I cleaned the contacts on the three relays using a typical board fingernail
file that ladies use for their finger nails ( I keep a supply for cleaning
relay contacts, since there is sandpaper on both sides, and they are
tiny enough to fit between most contacts ). THEN, I realized that the BROIL
contacts were bouncing apart - they were too far apart, and not closing
properly, so I bent the stationary contact a bit closer, and plugged in the
stove = NO ERRORS..

I analysed the circuit, and after turning on the 3 relays ( NOTE, when you
turn on BAKE, as in a regular oven, THE BROIL ELEMENT goes on at first
to quickly help the BAKE element get the oven up to temperature )
there is a feedback circuit that feeds 250 Volts back into the 5 Volt computer
chip ( ! ! ! ) It uses two 22 Meg Ohm resistors in series for a total of 44 Million
Ohms, which shows about 46 volts accross the resistors. Since the gas
tube display uses 30 volts to light up, the 46 volts is within the computer
board's ability to lower it enough to feed into the computer. There are transisors
on the back of the control board and Zener diodes etc. to " compare " the
voltage, where 46 volts in = 250, and Zero volts, means that the element
is burnt out, the element fuse in the fuse panel is burnt out, or, the relay
contacts are dirty. The relays are absolutely standard 24 volt relays,
with a plasic cover that snaps off if you pull and wiggle it. You will see
the round silver contact pads are blackened and probaly pitted.
Sand these flat until silver/brass shiny, and test to make certain that
when you press the metal lever that the magnetic coil pulls DOWN,
that the contacts touch! If they do not touch tight, bend the
stationary contact in a tiny bit and test again.

You can first check the fuses - there are two 120 volt fuses in the
fuse panel that give you 250. Then, you can unplug the stove,
and use an OHM meter to see if the element is burnt. The two types
of elements I checked were 3000 Watt at 18.7 Ohms, and 2500 Watt,
at 48 Ohms. If the elements are burnt out, you will get ZERO ohms.
If the element is burnt internally through the insulation in the tube,
and shorting to ground, between the ends and the steel back of the
stove ( ground) you will get a reading of X amount of ohms ( which
normally should be ZERO ) If the element is burnt or shorted to
ground, replace.

The F3 error is a really dumb mechanical errror of whether the 250 volts
is on the elements. It does not involve the computer or the thermostat,
or the relay " electronics" at all - it is just simply 3 contacts that supply
250 Volts, and whether or not the contacts work, the elements work,
or the fuses work. This the same 250 Volts that is on an ordinary
dial stove, and the dumbest part of the whole unit.

When I called service, they said they would order the $147.95 temperature
thermostat, and " see if this fixes the problem", if not they would start
replacing the modules - $300 and $400, plus labour, plus tax etc., and
since the problem was on the module, this would cost $147.95 + $300,
plus $75.00 for the first 15 minutes, and $15 for each additional 15 minutes,
for a total of about $466 dollars ( CDN ) which is about $460 dollars US.

A package of 25 fingernail files is $1.00 at the dollar store. That is all that
it cost to fix the problem. You need a square ( Robertson ) head screwdriver
to remove the 7 screws on the back panel, and then you wiggle the
covers off the relays, and clean them. It takes 10 minutes.

good luck ! Damned the manufacturers for not putting this information
in the user manual.

Robin Graves, January 2008, kidbots.com

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

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My Frigidaire oven es100 display just says "e" and will not clear or do anything. What should I do?

Posted on Feb 25, 2010

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