My dryer is not heating right now just cold. We

The heating element assembly warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. If the dryer won't stop, it may be because the heating element assembly isn't working - which greatly increases the drying time. Check the heating element for continuity. http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dryer/7-3-850356-/GE-Dryer-won-t-stop-DWSR463EG7WW
This GE Website has descriptions and videos you can watch. Also shows the price of replacement parts and the skill level needed to preform repairs yourself.

What size wire? When you replaced the heating coil, what did you use? Was it OEM? What part number? Do you have an ohm meter?

did the original element bad? you probably replace the wrong part for the problem. check your coils, there's two of them right in front of the element.

You may have a high limit switch that has failed. You will need to tear down the dryer to get access to the heating element. Look for the heating element on the bottom right side. There are 2 thermo discs located on the left side of the heating element. Test both of them. If there is no continuity, change that part.
Hope this helps.

if you hooked up yhe wires on the heating element check the thermostat it will be a oval shapef unit on housing of element and has wires going to it it may be bad.

Normal 0 Hi, UNPLUG the dryer! Remove the rear panel of the dryer and locate the element on the right hand side. Plug the dryer in to test to see if there is 240V going to the element posts. If there is voltage, but no heat, change the element. If it does not, you need to test the thermostats for continuity. If any of the thermostats are open, replace it. I hope this helps you.
Please let me know if this help or if I can assist you further.

Thanks
Vic

Hello Friend, Your problem is very simple to fix. You need a thermal fuse and or heater element, both very simple and affordable to replace. Try replacing the thermal fuse first to see if that's the problem. To replace the thermal fuse just remove back cover of dryer and look down where the air blows out. Now, just to the left where all the wires are you will see a white plastic part with two wires plugged into it. This part is called a thermal fuse. Just remove these wires and replace the thermal fuse. If this don't solve your problem you will need to replace the heater element. To replace the heater element, with the back cover off of your dryer just look down and to the right of were the air blows out. You will see the electric heating unit with two fat red wires plugged into it. Unplug these wires and you will see on the sheetmetal housing two screws that hold it on, one on each side. On older elctric dryers there is only one screw that holds element in place, it is on the bottom center of element screwed in from behind. Remove screw(s) and remove old heater element. Now, lay the new element next to the old one and take notice that there is a heat sensor attached to the old element where one of the red wires unplugged from. Gently remove this sensor and install it onto the new element in the same location as the old one. If you have an older electric dryer, the old heater element doesn't have the heat sensor on it, just skip this step. Now, plug in your two red wires and re-install your heater element. Your dryer will run like new. Happy to help, Tim.

Ohm out the thermal fuse, if it is ok, then you can ohm out the heating element, be sure to visually check the element as well becqause it could just be shorted out internally giving you a reading, but first and foremost check your voltages be sure you are getting 240 across the outer plug spades and 120 volts from left to common and right to common, unplug this thing before you get into the element area or you could end up with a smokin fro !

most dryers have a thermal fuse on the exhaust it may be open

There is not a reset button on an electric dryer that I know of. If a dryer is blowing air at all, that tells me that the blower assembly and drum motor are working. If you have not heat it is generally caused one of the following:

1. Bad thermal cut-out - located near the heating element housing. Should read a SHORT (0 ohms on an ohm meter) if good. If bad, it is generally a good idea to replace the TCO along with the Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted right next the TCO in most cases) because the TCO is designed to protect the thermostat and heating element. If the TCO fails, it is likely that the thermostat could also be damaged.

2. Hi-Limit Thermostat failure - located near the heating element housing. The thermostat opens when the internal heat reaches about 157 degrees (on most dryers). This helps regulate the dryer temperature and helps protect the heating element. If it reads a constant OPEN (infinity reading on an ohm meter), replace it along with the TCO (as mentioned above).

3. Bad Heating Element - located under the drum on some dryer models and in the rear on others. The element should read about 9-11 ohms if good. If they go bad, the element will generally burns itself OPEN.

I will need you model number (located near the dryer door opening) in order to give you better advice on how to access the inside of the dryer. Post back with comments and let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

PS I hope I didn't insult your intelligence, but some people are little more saavy than others, so I try to explain things in the simplest of terms.