Question about Jensen XA2150 Car Audio Amplifier

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Sound comes on, goes away

It is definately NOT temp related. I have to get this amp fixed because I bought it 7 years ago and its molded into a seat to fit. I sent it away to Protech and they said nothing was wrong with it. I will be driving and all of a sudden the sound will go away, usually fades off first. If I turn it up high it shuts off pretty much. I have remote switches on my dash and if I turn them off then back on sometimes htey kick back on. Im not sure what to do but I HAVE to get this working again. They have been where they are for 5 years and have never had one problem with them. Other amp works fine. The amp not working is a Jensen 300 watt amp 2 channel and I use it for subs. Any help is appreciated.

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Re: Sound comes on, goes away

It needs to be checked for faulty solders if you dont know how to do this take it to a tech

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

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I have a set of subwoofers in my car powered by an amp with capacitor all 3 years old. A couple weeks ago I encountered a problem where my system will suddenly emit a weird loud humming noise (similar to...

try taking out the capacitor and wire the amp up with out it. it sounds like the cap is back feeding or discharging voltage when it should not be . if you reinstall the amp with out the cap and noise goes away buy a new cap or do away with it .

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The saftey red light keeps coming on

It means that the subwoofer is blown. The red light is called the Protect light. Disconnect the speaker wire from the amp and then turn the amp on and see if the red light goes away. But if as soon as you hook the speaker wires back to the amp and the red light turns on that DEFINATELY means the sub is blown.

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There is a engine noise coming out from my speakers

(1) If you have an ohm meter check from neg terminal of battery to body of your car. It should be below 1 ohm. You should get the same reading between the amp neg terminal and the amp ground point. Check amp ground with the power off and the wire to the negative on the amp temporarily disconnected. Most cars have a braided uninsulated ground strap from the engine to the body or frame. In older cars this can break and it usually causes noise. Run a temp ground wire from the battery neg to the bat neg of your amp, if the noise goes away it's a ground issue for sure.
(2) Make sure the amp is well grounded ! The bolts that anchor the seats to the floor are one of the best ground points I know of.
(3) I've fixed a few amps that had an internal broken connection from the RCA's on the amp where they connect to the circuit board. This often happens from not having the amp bolted down and/or the RCA's getting hit or kicked. This will cause noise in the amp and requires taking the amp apart to fix it.

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Only works for a few seconds when I tap on it

The factory does not refuse repair orders unless it is hot-sheeted for thieft, so that would depend. Sounds as though there is a soldier connection inside that has either broken away or melted. Unless you have extensive training on amplifers "do not," I'll repeat that "do not attempt " why do you think they called them ampilfiers. They ampilfy the signal send to them and they store energy after shut off. Be smart, send it back to a factory repair station.

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relatively simple 2 leg pot. fix.
Under $50 to repair.

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

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Check for intermittent shorts on the speaker leads.

Turn down the volume control on your head unit while operating the amp, you could be over driving the amp.

Remove Speaker leads and reset the amplifier. IF the protection LED still comes on amplifier is faulty.

Below is the link to put in a help request with the manufacture for repair.

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The problem you have mentioned is a common one with old sets, but it also occurs in new ones also, though not frequent. You can fix this just by changing the electrolytic filter capacitors in the power supply and sub filters on the amp PCB. The new capacitors should be of the same or higher voltage rating and same capacity rating as of the existing ones. And as it is such an old one, it is better to change all the electrolytic capacitors to avoid any further problems.

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1 Answer

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I would try it without the slot for the additional amp. However, there is a chance that it is fried. When its powering up I would check the voltages with a multimeter to make sure everything there is in order.

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