Question about LG WM3431 Front Load Washer / Dryer

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LG WM 3431 does not dry

My LG WM 3431 was working perfectly until recently when it stopped drying. I have cleaned the drain area as described by the manual, but it still does not dry. Also the dry cycle stops before the time orignially calculated.

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  • sarabjits Feb 02, 2008

    Hi,

    I, being a novice, am unable to test your solution. I was hoping it would be some thing simple, such as a way of cleaning something stuck. However, if you can send me links that show how to open the machine, i can give it a shot.



    Thanks much.

  • Anonymous May 12, 2008

    I have the exact same unit and have had the exact same problem. This is the third time in three years. I am now going to see if I can get a replacement under the Lemon Policy. Basically, only a repair person can fix this. He comes and takes the top off, and uses a big brush that looks like a giant cigar filter and pulls out all the lint from inside the machine. Next, he replaces the thermostat. It works like a charm. My repair person basically told me that this is really required as maintenance, even thought the manual doesn't say it. I hope LG comes up with a way for uses to clean their own filters and so that the thermostat can withstand the issue. I just called for my third thermostat since I purchased the machine in September of 2006.

  • Anonymous May 18, 2009

    During "dry" cycle stops every 10 minutes with dHE error.
    Was working fine for five months.
    Opened it and found one wire loose (closest to the front side red coloured without isolation on drying element). plugged it back and it works fine now.
    Fanny that the error message actually is about water supply/drainage problems.



  • Jon Fisher Feb 13, 2012

    I have posted a guide with step by step instructions and pictures on how to fix this very problem athttp://fish.freeshell.org/LGWM3431HW.htm... Several people have reported that it worked great for them, try it out and let me know if you have any questions / problems.

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Dryer / drying troubles - DIY repairs WD-12320RD / WM3431H. It was difficult to find suitable solutions so I shall share my experiences here. I live in Malaysia and purchased the LG washer-dryer model WD-12320RD TROMM (240V) in January 2006. WD-12320RD should be similar to WM3431H, just compare and verity features available at LG's Singapore website http://sg.lge.com. However, WD-12320RD model is no longer available locally. Both model's features are essentially the same since I relied on the WM3431H service manual downloaded from http://136.166.4.200/SubPages/DA_Laundry.htm for my repairs.

Fixing the machine would require relevant skills and plenty of common sense. Do this at your own risk and I am not responsible for your screw-ups.

Trouble date: January 2006

Symptoms: Damp clothes. Steam present when the door was opened and the door was also wet.

Solutions attempted: New washer-dryer drying under “Very” (More) didn’t worked. Machine was still under warranty and LG repairman was quick to respond and helpful. Diagnosed the problem to be a faulty PWB Assembly (main). Replaced PWB Assembly with a new version i.e. without “Cd” (cool down) feature. Machine worked as it should and clothes were dry even under “Cupboard” (Normal) mode.

Trouble date: March 2008

Symptoms: Similar to January 2006. Problem persisted, even after running drying cycle twice.

Solutions attempted: Dryer under “Very” (More) didn’t worked. First diagnosis, faulty Heater Assembly and Motor Assembly (Fan) located in dryer Duct (Inlet). Replaced the Thermostat Assembly, the Fan and also thoroughly cleaned the Duct Assembly (condensing). It was full of lint but no hairs, etc. Problem persisted.

Tried “Time” drying setting at 2h 30m and the drying worked a little better but the clothes were still slightly damp.

Tried Cupboard again and this time I observed the display was reduced to 10m or 6m after only ½h passed. Ran the cycle again but also used a separate kitchen timer as a reference control by setting both timers at 2h 30m. Confirmed the drying cycle ended abruptly in about 45m while the kitchen timer was still running.

Tried “Low Temp” mode and the drying cycle lasted between 3½h and 4h. During the drying cycle, time display would stay frozen at 6m when the actual time passed was more than 1h. Once completed, the clothes were dry but some steam was still present. The door was dry too.

Replaced the PWB Assembly and dryer worked again. Clothes were dry as toast.

Lessons learnt:

Symptoms: Immediately after drying cycle, damp clothes, door is wet and steam present.

Recommended action: Try all drying modes, observe behaviour compare with the above. Use a separate timer as reference to confirm drying cycle ended abruptly. During cycle also observe whirring sound to be sure that the dryer fan motor was running and the top right hand side of the machine felt warm because of the heater. Thoroughly clean the Duct Assembly (condensing).

Tips on cleaning Duct Assembly: Unplug power cord and ensure machine is cool.

Step 1 - (note: for this step, very little guidance was found in manual) remove back panel to access the rubber bellows connecting the Duct Assembly to the tub. It should be located at the lower left side. Before removing the bellows, line the base with some towels in case Duct was flooded. Wash bellows thoroughly. Remove any other lint or visible obstructions from the Duct and tub openings. Re-attach and secure bellows.

Step 2 - remove the Heater Assembly and Fan covers to expose the heating element. Scrub the entire inside walls with moist toothbrush. Extend the handle if required. Don't use sharp objects to clean the Duct. It would be easier to remove lint if the inside walls were moisten with water using a manual spray pump. Exercise extreme care and do not wet other parts of the machine. Remove the loose lint and rinse entire area carefully using cups of water and all the remaining lint would flow down the Duct into the tub and later, exit through the drain hose. If the Duct is blocked, the water may fill up the Duct. Not to worry, try removing the obstruction (likely to be lint or hair) with a suitable tool, probably a stiff rod with a blunt, L-shaped end. Finally, clean by rinsing with water and dry the covers and Fan before re-assembling all the parts. Repeat Step 1 if necessary.

Recommended solution: If symptoms persist, most likely the PWB Assembly has conked out, even if it was a new machine as in my case and it appears to be so for many users as well.

User tips for best performance: Maximum load by volume, clothes should not exceed 70% of tub. When drying efficiency is affected, cleaning maintenance is required.

extracted from http://www99.epinions.com/content_427670867588?alert_type=0&submit=Submit
please visit and leave a positive comment if your trouble was solved. tq.

Posted on Apr 27, 2008

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I have found that most all front loaders have the same computer control board by a certain manufacture and that this board has a cracked solder issue around the relays.
It would require removing the top, marking the wires, removing board and re-freshing the solder around the relays.
Most techs just replace the board.
Others would tell you that it may be the heating coil or temperature thermostat . but these are working though intermittent .
the relay issue causes intermittent operation, incomplete cycles, random errors.
If you have someone that can do this I have some links for more info.

Posted on Jan 29, 2008

  • Karl Whisenand
    Karl Whisenand Feb 02, 2008

    Opening the washer is easy there is a top panel ( 3 screws in top
    rear) that is where to get to the control board and wiring.

    and the bottom panel (3 screws on bottom front lip) that is where to
    get to the filter to clean out any debris that gets sucked toward the
    pump. easy to remove too.

    you should at least check this filter.

    you will need to remove power, open remove bottom panel , open large filter in center, it will be apparent .

    and have some rags,paper, towels as there is sitll a bit of water present when you open the filter.

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There is a known problem with these units in that they do not have a proper lint filter, so lint builds up inside the machine over time and slows down drying.
I have a guide of how to take apart the machine and remove the lint here:
http://fish.freeshell.org/LGWM3431HW.html

It only takes about 30 minutes, maybe an hour the first time if you are nervous and being extra careful. I do this about twice a year and my machine has been working well for almost 10 years.

How to clean the lint out of a LGWM3431 dryer

Posted on Dec 01, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How to resolve "PF" power failure on an lg WM3431HW Hello, I have an LG WM3431HW which is a combo washer/dryer. It is around 4-5 years old. It was working fine, then recently after completing the washing cycle and after a few minutes after the start of the dryer cycle. The dryer cycle shuts off without error (power to unit still on). We opened up the top and cleaned out all the lint caked on within the dryer duct and made sure lint trap off drain pump in front was cleaned. We started again and received a DHE error. We confirmed the dryer element was heating up fine. We also tested continuity to through the dryer thermostats and it had continuity. Also confirmed appropriate voltage over dryer element. We then took dryer duct fan off, turned it upside down and re-connected to make sure it was turning properly. It seemed to start and stop and it was also very hot so we thought there was a problem with the fan so we replaced the fan, and to be safe, also replaced the thermostat. Once that was done, a few seconds after the unit goes into the dry cycle, the cycle stops and shows a "PF" power failure error. We checked all connections we can find but everything looks connected correctly. We eye-balled the power board to see if there was any burn spots or anything else noticeable but nothing. We also eyeballed the power filter for the same but nothing looked out of the ordinary. The heating element was hot and confirmed the dryer fan duct was revolving, albeit for a short time. It seems that there is something tested after the heating element is started and the fan revolving, that is not working and which is telling the unit to shut off or "power failure". We had also unhooked the dryer thermistor to see if anything looked unusual but looked fine and re-connected. What else can I check and what part is likely to be at fault ? Since the wash cycle runs fine, I am hoping the power board is fine. Thanks

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