Question about LG Projection Televisions
Today when my girlfriend came home and turned on our tv (LG RE44SZ21RD) she also turned on the AV amp. I think by misfortune they both tried to kick in at exactly the same time and drew too much current for our RCD throwing the trip switch.
I switched the TV to off, then reset the trip switch, then turned the TV back on. The tv came into standby fine (red LED illuminated as usual) and when I used the remote to turn the TV on that seemed to work too... The green LED flashed several times then stayed on. However, I get no picture.
Let me stress: The TV does not turn itself off after a certain time or give a flashing amber LED - ie protection circuit is not activated (so as far as the TV is concerned everything is fine).
The problem is that the lamp is not illuminated at all. I decided to check if the lamp had blown by replacing it with one I know works. (I replaced my old lamp when it got to 6k hours despite the fact it still worked - so I used this for a test).
So I guess the next most likely fault is the ballast board. The one in the TV is an OSRAM board - 3757790027. LG part number 6316000002D.
What I want to ask you guys is... is the ballast likely to be the problem? what is the procedure to test the ballast board?
I am a physics phd student so I have some electronics knowledge and have some lab equipment available to me.
SOURCE: ballast replacement
Your set uses the Phillips UPH100W 1.3 100http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/ 1amp bulb part number 6912V00006A which uses Ballast EUC 6913V0002A and the actual ballast isMB03CA part number 6871VSMB13F I would contact LG and give them these numbers. Is your ballast bad or is the BallastEUC bad? Let me know if I can help you further.
Posted on May 12, 2008
SOURCE: Cant find a ballast
The ballast is actually a switch mode power supply that powers the lamp. It is an
integral part of the light engine and is not replaceable. The light engine has a price
tag of $950. If you replaced the lamp with an after market one and not the Toshiba
lamp you can experience the same problem. Some of the after market lamps will
not fire at the same voltage as the Toshiba. The blue led will come on solid and the
yellow blinking. It will try to start 8 times then give up.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
SOURCE: Samsung HLP 4663W DLP TV
If you have already replaced the lamp and ballast, to no avail, then it is time to take it in to a certified repair center. Most will charge a nominal diagnostic fee. My 61" did the same thing and it turned out to be the Light Engine (of which the DMD Board is a part).
If the problem were the color wheel, the lamp would come on for a bit until the color wheel sync couldn't be achieved and then it would turn off. The all-3-flashing-lights problem is the lamp. Here is a page from the service manual on the 3 blinking lights problem.
The Light Engine controls the ballast via a separate signal than the 320 Volts. The voltage reading means that the Power Board is working properly.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
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