Question about Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection Television

1 Answer

Mitsubishi ws-65809 powers on for 2 seconds. After holding menu & input I get a 1 blink, 2 blink error code. Anyone know what this error code is and how to fix. Thanks

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  • 1 more comment 
  • dbaas Dec 28, 2009

    Following your advice, I now get the 2 blink, 2 blink error.

  • dbaas Dec 30, 2009

    To SD TECH.

    If possible please forward the instructions to dbaas_2005@yahoo.com. Thanks again.

  • SD Tech
    SD Tech May 11, 2010

    1,2 means no error detected---unplug the set for a minute and try the self check again---if green power light comes on and then goes out you should get something other than 1,2 it will only repeat the code about 5 times and then to get it again you have to unplug the set and try to turn it on. SD TECH

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  • Mitsubishi Master
  • 14,553 Answers

2,2 error code is short protection---98% of the time it means one of the two soldered in pico fuses this set uses is blown----there are several---but your problem means if it is ws-65809 one of the two stk-392-570 convergence chips has failed.

I will attach a photo---they are on the middle circuit board and the two to the right are for convergence--both are green and 5 amp--with the set unplugged check both of them like any fuse--no reading means bad.

If you find this--I HAVE START TO FINISH, STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS FOR THIS REPAIR IN THIS SET--SHOPS WILL GET 300 or more but you if you can do it yourself buy everything you need for under 40 dollars--I can tell you the best place to get the chips, fuses, etc.

If you want the instructions let me know and I will post them here for you---they are based on my own actual experience doing this repair in this kind of set hundreds of times.

If this information helped you rate this solution as I do this here for free.

SD TECH

Mitsubishi ws-65809 powers on for 2 seconds. - 48bb479.jpg

Here is a photo of what the two chips look like--The one in the picture says 392-560 but yours uses two that look just like it--STK-392-570.

5f1988c.jpg

Posted on Dec 28, 2009

Testimonial: "SDTECH provided me the information I've been seeking for the past 2 years, and he did it the same day as I posted the problem. YEA!!!!!!!"

  • 6 more comments 
  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Dec 30, 2009

    Address provided does not work.

    I will post instructions here in several parts (site does not allow large posting here)

    Copy and paste them----there will be some garbage True/False stuff--edit it out--it is there because document was composed in MS Word.

    SD TECH


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    SD Tech Dec 30, 2009







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    392-570
    Replacement






    Mitsubishi
    convergence IC replacement: this applies to sets that use (2) STK-392-570






    The Idea
    here is to get the Middle Circuit board out so you can replace the Convergence
    Ic’s.









    HERE is
    what you will need: (most of this you can buy on the internet or at local
    electronics stores)






    Two new:
    STK-392-570 CONVERGENCE IC’S



    One good
    soldering iron



    Solder


    De
    soldering braid or wick



    Liquid
    flux



    Heat sink
    compound (grease)



    Denatured
    alcohol



    One short
    Philips screwdriver



    One small
    clean toothbrush



    One
    electric screw gun to REMOVE screws






    Turn the
    set on and examine the picture for how the Convergence looks bad---when you are
    done examine it again---once in a great while you will get and install a new IC
    that is bad. Remember this when you have finished—if the convergence is still
    bad but different from what you started with you may have installed a new I.C.
    that was bad. Turn the Set off.









    1) Unplug
    the TV set.






    2) Remove
    back cover.






    3) Remove
    front speaker grill and inspection plate behind it.






    4) Remove
    the 2 or 3 black screws that go thru the back edge of the plastic frame that
    hold the chassis down.






    5) Where
    all the video and audio jacks are on the right edge of them you will see a
    diagonal plastic (Black) remove the two brass screws from the outside edge,
    remove another to the right bottom and a third smaller screw forward and to the
    left; remove plastic piece and all four screws and set them aside.






    6) Look
    carefully at main board in center of the set. You will find a number of screws
    hold it into the plastic frame.






    7)
    Towards the left back edge of this (to the right of the plastic you removed)
    you will find a metal cover with a small screw on either end. It has a lot of
    round holes punched in it.8) Remove both screws and pull the shield up and
    off---remove the board beneath it by releasing the two tabs on the bottom right
    side and pulling the board out—handle it with care as it is the digital
    convergence board that stores the set’s memory of adjustments. Set it aside






    8) Remove
    both screws and pull the shield up and off---remove the board beneath it by
    releasing the two tabs on the bottom right side and pulling the board
    out—handle it with care as it is the digital convergence board that stores the
    set’s memory of adjustments. Set it aside





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    SD Tech Dec 30, 2009







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    9) At
    this point you need to pull the entire Chassis back at least a few inches---If
    it does not slide back look for a plastic latch on either side near the front
    of it. Some sets have the latches on the left or right side—black plastic tabs
    that lift up.






    10)
    Usually the board has 2 screws in the front and rear corners of the board and
    one almost dead center in the middle of the board---make sure you get all of
    them out before you remove the board.






    11) When
    you removed the back there was a diagonal board that slides out just below the
    lens; pull it out and it will give you more room to continue.






    12) There
    are a number of plugs on the board. Some of these sets have a small circuit
    board located at the very front of the middle board with plugs going into in,
    release the tabs at the bottom and pull the board up and out of your way.






    13) Now
    you should see 5 white fold over plugs---three on the left edge and two on the
    right---do not touch them yet.






    14) With
    the little board(if your set has it) out, unplug the several plugs at the front
    edge of the board(they are all idiot proof---different number of pins so you
    cannot put them in the wrong place) and are marked with letters that are also
    marked on the board. There is another 2 wire plug mid way to the right side of
    the board.






    15) Now
    the Tricky part: the 3 ivory color plugs on the left side that fold over and 2
    more on the right side. You need to do this carefully---with a small flat
    bladed screwdriver pull up on one end until each comes loose(the reason we
    removed the board under the shield and the plastic piece (there usually is also
    a plug under it that you need to unplug) is to make this part more easy.






    16) Once
    you have all 5 of these lifted up and out of the way check to make sure you
    have not left any plugs still attached to the board.






    17) Pull
    the entire chassis back as far as you can get it (you may have to release wires
    on either side of the set from the plastic ties that bundle them---take your
    time).






    18) Note
    the very large metal Heat sink in the middle board towards the front; if you
    look from the front of the set thru the inspection plate you will see both IC’s
    with a metal plate that runs across them from left to right----there are three
    screws to remove here---two ways to get them out: you can remove them from the
    front of the set or what I do is use a short Philips and get them from the back
    by touch. Get all three out and remove the metal plate and set all aside.








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    SD Tech Dec 30, 2009







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    19) From
    the back of the set slide the chassis as far back as you can. There are 3 more
    screws on the front edge of the heat sink that hold it to the board and the
    middle one has a wire with a connector on it. This is the reason you need to
    get the chassis back; the screws are identical to the others and go thru the
    circuit board into the frame where it is mounted.






    20) You
    should now be able to lift the entire Heat sink from the set (sometimes you may
    need a putty knife to break the two IC chips loose from it) Set it aside and
    look the board over to make sure you have not missed any of the identical brass
    colored screws.






    21) Move
    any plugs clear of the board. There are 2 or 3 tiny plastic tabs at the front
    edge of the board; push them and lift the board up from the frame---do it
    slowly and if you missed any screws you will find it binds somewhere. The board
    lifts up front and is tucked into notches on the back side---Once it is clear
    of the plugs remove it from the set. You are halfway home.






    22) With
    the board removed look at the dozen or so light blue resistors right in front
    of the two STK IC’s; if any of them look somewhat white in the middle you need
    to replace them—they are all 3.9 ohm and you can check them with a multi-meter
    just like checking a fuse-I usually check them all even if they look good
    (saves having to pull the board out a second time).






    23) They
    are protection in case some part of the two IC’s short. If the resistors are
    all good you need to un-solder both of the STK’s.






    24) With
    a good soldering iron use a braided wick (called a de-solder braid—radio shack
    has them) and to make it easier use some liquid flux---most electronics stores
    sell this. These sets all use lead free solder and it may not be easy to
    unsolder without the flux put on it first.






    25) Once
    you have unsoldered both and removed them take some denatured alcohol with a
    tooth brush and clean the bottom of the board where the STK’s were soldered
    in—this gets all the flux and any tiny solder specs out of the way. Let the
    board dry for a minute or so and look at it carefully---if you have to, use the
    de-solder wick again and clean up any solder on the board where the IC’s came
    thru—clean again with alcohol if you need to—the cleaner the surface the better
    and faster the new solder will attach.






    26)
    Install each of the new IC’s one at a time---make sure all the pins are
    straight or you will have problems getting them in—with one in place hold it
    and turn the board over and solder the pins at either end to keep it there; AT
    THIS POINT APPLY MORE SOLDER FLUX TO ALL THE PINS BEFORE YOU SOLDER THE IC IN!






    27)
    Straighten it if you did not get it upright and finish soldering all the pins.
    When you are done repeat this with the second IC and then with a good light
    take a very close look at all the pins to make sure they are all soldered and
    not touching another pin. You can also use the denatured alcohol again to clean
    all the pins on the two IC’s you just soldered.






    28) With
    both IC’s soldered install the circuit board back into the set---back edge
    first into the notches at the back of the plastic frame---make sure you do not
    hang up on any plugs or connectors; with the front edge of the board gently
    push down until the tabs on the front edge engage—the board must be perfectly
    straight to go in correctly.








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    SD Tech Dec 30, 2009







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    29) With
    a putty knife remove all the old white grease from the heat sink (careful—this
    stuff stains hands or clothing) and clean the heat sink with denatured alcohol.
    You are now ready to attach many of the plugs back to the board; you will find
    if you do it now it is easier to reach them with the heat sink removed---put
    all of the main plugs back and leave the fold over plugs for last.






    30) If
    you had the model with the small plug in circuit board on the front of the main
    board—install it after you have installed the plugs in front of it.






    31) A
    note about the 3 plugs on the left edge and the two on the right edge---you
    have to be careful when you snap them back in---sometimes one of the metal pins
    will lift up when you do this---hold your fingers down and apply even
    pressure---if you see any metal pin sticking up a little use a fine flat bladed
    screwdriver and carefully push it back down into the plug.






    32)
    Presuming you have now installed the board and have ALL the plugs back in
    place, slide the chassis back until the latches engage---any wires or cables
    you moved to get room you should now put back into the plastic hold off that
    contained them—clean up!






    33)
    Before you install the heat sink back, apply heat sink grease (important and
    you can get it at almost any electronics supplier that sells the liquid Flux
    and solder) This grease is the reason the original IC’s failed—after several
    years it dries out and an IC cannot move the heat fast enough---the grease is
    for quick transfer of heat from the IC to the metal heat sink.






    34) Now:
    if you used an electric screw gun to remove screws---do not use it to put them
    back—it is very easy to crack and damage the board if you use a screw gun and
    to strip the screws that go into the heat sink.






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    SD Tech Dec 30, 2009







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    35) Place
    the greased heat sink back in position and attach the 3 screws that hold it to
    and thru the board---I find starting all three and then tightening them by hand
    works best; don’t forget to put the wire with the grommet back to the middle
    screw.






    36)
    Replace the metal plate that goes across the chips and hold it in place until
    you get the middle screw back in (it has tabs that engage into little holes)
    once you get all three of the plate screws back in tighten them down firm (they
    hold the IC’s tight to the heat sink).






    37) With
    the heat sink installed, install the board on the left side back by plugging it
    in and install the metal box (shield) over it and the screws front and back by
    hand.Check that you have all the plugs you removed plugged back in.






    38)
    Replace all the screws that hold the board into the plastic frame.






    39)
    Install the diagonal plastic piece you removed and by hand replace the 4 screws
    that hold it in place.






    40) Take
    a good look now to make sure all the plugs are back in place and installed
    correctly.






    41) Slide
    the entire Chassis back into place.






    42)
    Before you replace the screws that hold the chassis down (usually 2 or three
    long screws) turn the set on and see what you have----if it comes on and looks
    fairly normal you are ready to proceed.At this point you have two choices---you
    can go into the customer menu and select CONVERGENCE---there will be detailed
    instructions on screen for the center and fine adjustments---MOST Mitsubishi
    sets need to have the convergence adjusted in the regular and then in the HD
    mode---go to a HD channel if you have HD signal and adjust the convergence
    there.






    43) There
    is a TECHNICAL mode where you can do this but it requires knowing a number
    sequence by MODEL number---it adjusts just like the customer mode but IT SAVES
    THESE ADJUSTMENTS INTO THE SET’S MEMORY.






    44)
    Adjusting in the customer menu may not save the adjustments—if the set gets
    unplugged it will go back to whatever it was before. In the Technical mode you
    enter by pushing MENU and a 4 digit number code for the model you have and then
    pushing enter, you exit by pushing HOME on the remote twice—all this is done
    with the original Mitsubishi remote—you need to have an original working remote
    for this.






    45) If
    you were careful and lucky all went well and you now have a working set. The
    two new IC’s should be good for 3 to 5 years and many go 8 years.






    46) If
    you had any problems recheck everything you did in the process to make sure you
    missed nothing----take your time and usually it works fine.






    47) I
    have done this hundreds of times and usually it is easy---it sounds a little
    complicated but after you do it once it gets easy---!








  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Dec 30, 2009

    This completes the instructions---I am also posting a photo of the resistors mentioned that are in front of the chips--they need to be looked at/tested----3.9 ohm--check all of them like checking a fuse--any that are white in the middle are bad--just takes a minute to check them with the board out--in your case I suspect they will all be good.

    SD TECH


  • realjeep Jun 28, 2011

    I tried to replace the Pico Fuses but further examination found the STK's were shot too. So after replacing 2 STK's, 2 Pico Fuses and a hand full of of capacitors it works like it's supposed to now. What a pain but it was better than buying a new TV.

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Related Questions:

1 Answer

My Mitsubishi WS-65809 turns on and then off after 4 seconds. I have pressed the input/enter together and got 2 and then 4 blinks. What do I need to do to fix it?


First to be sure, unplug the set from power and then plug back--this clears the error buffer. Repeat the self check:

PRESS AND HOLD "device"(input) and "menu" buttons on front of tv for at least 5 seconds and then release both together.


Watch for power light to blink in a sequence:

1 blink-then 2 blinks-------no error

2 blink-then 1 blink-------X-ray protection

2 blink-then 2 blink-------SHORT PROTECTION*******

2 blink-then 3 blink---------deflection circuit problem

2 blink-then 4 blink---------vertical circuit problem


******2, then 2 is most common---usually means one of the fuses that protect the Convergence IC or IC's is blown---set will detect no voltage to convergence IC and shut down.


SET WILL REPEAT BLINK ERROR CODE UP TO 5 TIMES AND THEN TO GET IT TO REPEAT MORE YOU HAVE TO UNPLUG SET AND TRY TO TURN ON AGAIN.

As you can see 2,4 is vertical problem----might want to remove speaker grill, inspection plate behind it and look up front--vertical is on middle board at right front as seen from front of set.

Look for ANY tiny drops of clear liquid which damages parts and is toxic-----glycol is what I would look for first.

Nov 04, 2012 | Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

My mitsubishi tv comes on and goes right off


do self check when it (power light) goes off:

press and hold both menu and input buttons on front of set for at least five seconds and let both go.

power light will blink a two digit error code like, 1 blink, 2 blink and pause and repeat it several times.

The error code will narrow down where the problem is and most common one is 2,2

let me know what code you find.

Mar 28, 2012 | Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

I have a mitsubishi model ws-65809. i press the power button the green light comes on then it shuts back off.


IF YOU have unplugged it plug it back and try to turn it on, when green power light goes out:

On the front of the set press and hold BOTH the menu and input buttons at the same time--hold both for at least 5 seconds and release both.

This is the self check this set has: power light will blink a 2 digit error code like 2 blinks, 2 blinks, a pause and repeat it several times.

The 2,2 error code is the most common and is short protection and I know if that code how to fix the set---for many customers it can be a do it yourself fix with parts cost under 35 dollars total.

Let me know what code you get and I will try to help you.

Fixed over 1,000 of these Mitsubishi sets.

SD TECH

Mar 24, 2012 | Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

My mitsubishi rear projection tv will not stay on


The model number indicated has a self test: when power light goes off at turn on:

on front of set press and hold both menu and input buttons at same time for at least 10 seconds and let go of both.

Power light will blink a two digit error code like 1 blink, 2 blinks a pause and repeat it several times.

What if any error code do you get?

This will narrow the problem to a specific area of the set.

sj

Aug 29, 2011 | Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Tv automatically powers off by itself within seconds.


This model has a self check: with the set plugged in turn it on--green power light comes on and a few seconds later goes off.

On front of set press and hold BOTH the menu and input buttons at the same time for at least 5 seconds and release both buttons.

Power light will blink a 2 digit error code like 2 blinks, 2 blinks, a pause and repeat it several times.

Let me know what error code you find and I will tell you what it means.

SD TECH

Apr 11, 2011 | Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Won't turn on clicks off


If power light comes on and then goes off in a few seconds do the self check this set has:

On front of set Press and hold both the menu and input (device) buttons at same time for at least 5 seconds and release both.

Power light will blink a two digit error code like: 2 blinks, 2 blinks, a pause and repeat it several times.

Let me know what error code you find and I will tell you what it means.

This feature is meant to narrow down what area the problem is in.

SD TECH

Oct 27, 2010 | Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

The Light turns on and then 2-3 seconds later turns off. Any solutions to fix it?


DO SELF CHECK IT HAS: WHEN SHUTS OFF PRESS AND HOLD BOTH THE MENU AND INPUT BUTTONS ON THE FRONT OF THE SET FOR AT LEAST 5 SECONDS AND RELEASE BOTH BUTTONS.

POWER LIGHT WILL BLINK TWO DIGIT ERROR CODE LIKE: 2 blinks, 2 blinks, a pause and repeat 4 more times.

let me know error code found and I will tell you what it means.

SD TECH

Aug 21, 2010 | Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

My TV just shut off and will not turn on again.


If green power light comes on for a second or two and goes off, do the self check the set has.

On the front of the set press and hold BOTH the MENU and INPUT buttons at the same time and release them after 5 seconds or longer.

Power light will blink a two digit error code about 5 times. 2 blinks, pause and 2 blinks is typical one seen most.


Let me know by replying to this solution what error code you find and I will tell you what it means.


SD TECH

Jun 23, 2010 | Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Power on for two seconds


Please do this:

If power light comes on for a few seconds and goes off--

On the front of the TV press both the Menu and Input(device) buttons at the same time and hold them for at least 5 seconds--then release both buttons.

The power light should then blink a two digit error code--most common is: 2 blinks, a pause and 2 blinks.

It will repeat the error code several times.

Let me know what error code you find and I will tell you what it means.

If this information helped you rate this solution as I do this here for free.

SD TECH

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Dec 22, 2009 | Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

TV TURNS ITSELF OFF


If the WS-65809 comes on and then the power light goes off---do the self check this model has:

When the light goes off on the power button----on the front of the TV press both the MENU and INPUT (or device) buttons at the same time and hold them for at least 5 seconds and then release both buttons.

The power light should blink a two digit error code--for example--2 blinks, a pause and 2 blinks--this is the most common error code and costs the least to fix.

Let me know what error code you find and I will tell you what it means.

If this information has helped you, rate this solution as I do this here for FREE.

SD TECH

Nov 16, 2009 | Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection...

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