Leaking drain, I think?

I think you have a leaking drain, sorry.

I would pull the back panel off of the fridge and look for the drain coming out of the bottom of the fridge and make sure it is aimed at the black plastic drain pan. The drain pan usually has the discharge lines off of the compressor ( the copper lines) going through it to evaporate the water, if the drain line is not lined up properley then it may drain on the floor instead of into the pan

Possible that the drain of the AC from the drain hose under the dash has leaked or the hose has come off that had caused this issue.
Look on the underside of the evaporator tank where the condensation of the water from the cooling pipes collects. This has to drain by a hose to the bottom of the floor of the car. This must have come or displaced.
Make sure that the drain also is not choked or clogged.

you could use a little food die and trace where the water is going to there seems to be a hole somewhere

Clean out the new ice maker with warm soapy water.

Ensure that the floor surface under your refrigerator is level. If the floor surface under your refrigerator isn't level, you can place shims under the legs of the refrigerator to fix the uneven surface.

Turn off the main water supply to your house.

Clear the water line by running the faucets until the pipe clears.

Screw the copper supply line's connector to the house's cold water connector valve. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the connection.

Slide the compression sleeve and nut onto the other end of the copper supply line. The compression sleeve and nut will wrap around the outside of the copper supply line.

Bend the copper supply line to fit into the water line inlet casing located on the back of the refrigerator. Leave slack in the line so that the refrigerator can be pulled away from the wall or cabinets. The water line inlet casing is a plastic bracket used to hold the copper supply line in place so that there is no pull on the tubing's connection. It is the larger of the two plastic brackets located on the back of the refrigerator.

Insert the compression sleeve located around the end of the copper supply line into the ice maker connector. The ice maker connector is already installed on the back of the Maytag refrigerator.

Tighten the nut over the connection between the compression sleeve on the copper supply line and the ice maker connector with an adjustable wrench.

Attach the water supply tube clamp to the water supply line by clipping it into place. The water supply tube clamp is a plastic bracket located on the back of the refrigerator that holds the supply tube so that it doesn't rattle and become disconnected. It is the smaller of the two brackets located on the back of the refrigerator.

Turn on the main water supply.

Check all connections for leaks.

Position the drain hose located on the back of the ice maker over your floor drain. Use a PVC pipe if you need to redirect the drain hose flow so that it falls over the floor drain. The PVC pipe should not touch the drain hose and should have no low point where the water can settle.

Plug the ice maker into a 3-prong grounded outlet.

front load or top ? drain hose must be elevated to 36 '' 34 min. if hose on floor it will not work .. needs stand pipe . if its leaking inside you may have a hose off . reinstall and wala it works .. mm hope some of ans work for you ..

Check for a blocked defrost drain. Take the panel off at the back of the freezer section and find the small hole at the very bottom center below the cooling coils. Use hot (but not boiling) water and a turkey baster to flush it out until water runs through it. (it will go into the defrost drain pan, where it will evaporate)
This will prevent water from comming out the freezer door and leaking onto your floor and running down your copper pipe to the basement.

To find out you need to cut away the white cover to see where the leak is coming from. This white cover is just cosmetic.

If the leak is on the connection where the supply line comes in, then is usually can be fixed.

If the leak is on the metal of the tank below the connection, then there is no fixing it. The metal just below the white plastic is part of the tank.

If the leak is on the connection, it can all be replaced. I recommend replacing the nipple going into the water heater with a 3/4" x 3" brass nipple. From there I recommend using a 3/4" x 3/4" x 18"-24" copper water heater flex. This assuming that you have a flex line installed now. If not I still recommend the brass nipple and the copper flex, but you can get a 3/4" Sharkbite Male adapter to adapt to copper pipe. (Use this fitting instead of having to solder. This fitting is found at Home Depot and Lowes. Be sure not to have any burrs on the copper pipe, because Sharkbites use an O'ring which can be damaged by any burrs.)

If you have a different plumbing installation, please contact me.

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sounds like you have a clogged defrost drain tube. removing back panel of freezer will give you acess to drain trough, melt away the ice with a hair dryer, youll find a drain hole under there somwhere,pouring boiling water down the drain will clear it pretty quickly( i use a steam machine purchased from the infomercials works awesome, after you clear it and all water drain down tube wrap a piece of solid copper wirearound the heater( black calrod heater right above the drain trough) and stick it in the whole maybe an inch or so. now everythime the heater comes on to defrost it will prevent the hole from freezing over

I had a similar issue that started about a year ago with my Sub-Zero 550. My freezer gasket actually tore after several times of freezing closed. I thought that a new gasket would solve it, but a second but related problem developed where I was getting alot of condensation under the left side of the unit, with the water dripping onto the floor...eventually staining the hardwood floor in front of the unit.

I traced the problem to a clogged condensation drain pipe in the refrigerator. It is a corrugated pipe that drains a trough behind the crisper drawers. My pipe was clogged with black sludge and frozen down below. The condensation in the fridge would overflow out of the trough and leak below the crisper drawers, down out through the gasket.

To resolve, I used a piece of solid thin wire folded in half and twisted with a small loop at the end to fish out as much sludge as I could. Then squirted hot water into the pipe until it totally unclogged. I believe this will solve the problem without any need for a heater underneath the unit. The 550 worked fine for 4-5 years before this happened.