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Light doesn't work on Kenmore Model 55022 Range hood...

I have a Kenmore Elite model 55022 range hood that is about 2 years old. Recently both lights stopped working. So I did what any one would do went and bought 2 replacement bulbs. When I put the new bulbs in the lights still wouldn't work. So I took my meter and did some troubleshooting. I found that there is 120VAC at the light socket. I know that the bulbs are good, I tried them in another light fixture. Also the fan on the range hood still works. Do you have any suggestions.

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  • calva70 Jan 27, 2008

    I'm comfortable with the further testing. I'm a technician by trade, I work on communications equipment. I'm just not super familiar with home electrical wiring.

    The 120 was measure when I connected across the 2 contacts of the light socket.

  • Anonymous Dec 10, 2008

    I have the same poblem. Kenmore Elite Model 233.52303200 - 3 years old. Only with mine the lights flicker. Sometimes stay off. I checked the voltage and I have a consistent 15 volts A/C. I thought maybe there was a problem inside the connector. But it seems strange. If the light is out, I can turn the switch off and on and the light will come back on, but then go back out again. Its not the switch because the power is consistent. Anyone find a solution? Tanks!

  • Anonymous Mar 21, 2014

    range hood light stopped working

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If you have 120VAC on the center contact of the light socket, and a working fan, but the bulb won't light...the most likely cause would be a disconnected neutral wire (white) in the light wiring inside the hood....assuming everything else is wired correctly.

If you're comfortable with further electrical testing...let me know, and I can describe a detailed procedure to check the status of the neutral wire. Otherwise, you may need the assistance of someone familiar with electrical troubleshooting or appliance repair.

Posted on Jan 27, 2008

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  • networkmagic Jan 27, 2008

    How did you connect the meter probes when you measured the 120VAC reading?

  • networkmagic Jan 28, 2008

    I'll assume for now that you're dealing with standard 120VAC electrical wiring in the U.S.A. If your hood is wired correctly, the metal housing should be grounded, the center contact in the light socket should be "hot" (120VAC) and the metal sleeve in the socket should be "neutral"...which is basically the same as ground, but it has it's own separate (white) wire.

    Here are some things you can try to check the wiring...

    Step 1 -- Try to find a nearby ground point so you can check for proper grounding of your range hood. Metal water pipes (cold) are usually grounded....otherwise you can use the ground pin (center round) of an unused electrical outlet. Connect one lead from your meter (black) to the ground point...you may need to use a long piece of wire to reach it...then connect the red lead to the range hood housing, such as on a metal screw or other bare metal....verify that the VAC reading is low....should be zero...but some sensitive meters will read up to 5 or 6 volts if the ground wire is long. If the voltage is at or near zero, try a resistance reading between the same two points. There should be a good connection (zero ohms of resistance) between the ground point and the range hood. If the ground can't be verified, I would recommend getting assistance from an electrician...this could be a significant shock or fire hazard.

    Step 2 -- Set the meter back to VAC and measure the voltage on the center contact in the light socket....with the black lead still connected to the ground point. It should be 120VAC, approximately.

    Step 3 -- Check the voltage on the Neutral....sleeve in the light socket. This reading should be 0VAC or very close to it. Again, this should be done with the black lead connected to the ground point. If this reading is around 120VAC...something is mis-wired and you should probably get assistance from an electrician to diagnose it. Don't try step 4 unless step three is close to 0 volts.

    Step 4 -- Continuity check for the neutral...use the same setup as in step 1 to check the continuity(resistance) between the neutral sleeve in the light socket and the ground point. The resistance should be roughly the same as the ground resistance in step 1....around zero ohms....because the neutral wires and ground wires are supposed to be bonded together at your electrical panel. Use care to avoid touching the "hot" contact in the center...it could permanently damage your meter when it's set for measuring resistance.

    If the neutral checks out ok...I can only think of three other possibilities...

    -- Something wrong with the light bulb...wrong type of base?
    -- Light socket contacts could be corroded and not making contact with the bulbs.
    -- A problem on the "hot" side of the circuit that only shows up under load...such as a corrosion problem in the power switch, for example.

    Good luck....and I hope this is helpful!

  • billbellinge Sep 21, 2011

    I have the same hood, same problem. The sockets are defective in this unit. I've replaced them twice and problem returns after a while.

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Where do I find a light cover for my ventahood?

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

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SOURCE: Light doesn't work on Kenmore Model 55022 Range hood...

If you're getting 120V at the lampholders, yet it's not lighting lamps that still work perfectly well in other fittings, two possibilitiesspring to mind.

One is that the cap on the bulbs isn't quite compatible with the fitting. Assuming they're some variant of Edison Screw, make sure that the centre terminal in the lampholder is sticking out far enough to touch the terminal on the bulb. Also check whether the lampholder achieves it's outer connection just with a small tab, rather than with the whole of the threaded ring. If so, make sure that this is going to touch the appropriate part of the bulb.

The other possibility is that you've got a high resistance connection somewhere - not enough of an open circuit to drop the 120 V when feeding the Megohm load presented by a meter, but more than enough to kill the supply when you have a lamp load. Only way to chase this is to use the meter on ohms range to bell out all the wiring between the lampholders and bits of the system which do work properly.

A.

Posted on Apr 05, 2008

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Light doesn't work on Kenmore Model 55022 Range hood...


If you're getting 120V at the lampholders, yet it's not lighting lamps that still work perfectly well in other fittings, two possibilitiesspring to mind.

One is that the cap on the bulbs isn't quite compatible with the fitting. Assuming they're some variant of Edison Screw, make sure that the centre terminal in the lampholder is sticking out far enough to touch the terminal on the bulb. Also check whether the lampholder achieves it's outer connection just with a small tab, rather than with the whole of the threaded ring. If so, make sure that this is going to touch the appropriate part of the bulb.

The other possibility is that you've got a high resistance connection somewhere - not enough of an open circuit to drop the 120 V when feeding the Megohm load presented by a meter, but more than enough to kill the supply when you have a lamp load. Only way to chase this is to use the meter on ohms range to bell out all the wiring between the lampholders and bits of the system which do work properly.

A.

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