Question about Cozy Enclosed Front Console Heater 70,000 btuh Natural Gas

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Fan switch will not make (limit switch).

On 1-25-08 my partner and I installed a brand new fan type wall furnacein very old apartment building. After we got the old furnace out and new furnace in place we realized that to make the new furnace fit properly the bottomplate of the furnace would have to be removed. I know that thisis not the thing to do but because of existing vent, and no room forplay, we felt that we had no other option. I personally thinkthat this could be part if not all of our problem. I'm thinkingwith this plate missing furnace plenum is not able to gererated enoughheat to activate my limit swithch to power my fan. When T-Statcalls for heat burner flame ignites as it should, but no fan. Ilet furnace cycle 3-4 times to really let some heat generate inside ofplenum to see if limit switch would make nothing. After a whilethe vent switch on the furnace which is NC will open on temp. rise asit should to kick out gas to burner. Jumped out swithch fan runsfine. Removed switch aswell to test switch for proper operation,switch is closing on temp. rise, and opening on temp fall as it isdesigned to do. Even though my limit switch test ok, could itstill be faulty. Had another technician that I work with to bringme another limit switch just in case it was bad. Long story shorthe brought me a NC switch by accident, being that it was getting late Iinstalled the NC switch to give customer continuous fan operationthrought the weekend, so they would have heat. I have ordered anew fan switch, but still not certain to what is causing fanswitch/limit control not to close and complete circuit to fan. Ifnew switch does not resolve problem, is it possible to use anotherlimit switch that closes @ lower temp. Existing switch is rated @120F-25F. Thanks for any assistance you can give me.

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  • jhuggins9 Jan 27, 2008

    My heater is not the heater listed above it is a Cozy Furnace Model
    number CF653C-H, fan type vented wall furnace. This furnace type was
    not an option in the list and without entering a certain heater I could
    not complete my post.

  • jhuggins9 Jan 28, 2008

    So what you are telling me is that I will need to sign up for your premium assistance plan before anyone will respond to my problem?

  • jhuggins9 Feb 03, 2008

    Your suggestion was a great help to me. We ended up to to install an adjustable fan swithch which I set to close @ 110 degress, and open @ 90 degress, 20 degree differential. The metal sheild definitely horned in the heat to assist in making the switch. Factory swith would probally work aswell with your idea, but we just more comfortable with the adjustable swithch.



    Thanks,

    Jeffrey

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If the snap switch is not located close enough to the plenum, this can be problem. The other option would be to cover the switch area with a metal shield or liatherm paper (fire rtardant paper).

Posted on Jan 29, 2008

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We have an EX38C Rinnai Direct Vent Wall Furnace which was installed in late November 2016. When the unit fires up it sounds like an airplane revving up its engines.


Mistake #1, calling the plumber/installer to diagnose a heating problem; unless of course he was dually licensed as a plumber and a HVACR technician. (Heating, Ventilation, Air-Conditioner, Refrigeration)
I would contact the plumber/installer in case of parts / unit warranty or installation issues since you purchased it and had it installed by him.
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The purpose of the combustion motor-fan unit is threefold; it acts to purge (exhaust) out any gas build-up before ignition occurs; it pulls outside air (oxygen) in through the intake pipe which is needed for flame ignition and to maintain it; while at the same time - vents spent/toxic gases out the flue pipe.
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On initial start-up, it is the combustion motor/fan unit that kicks in, so if you are hearing the noise at this start up phase, this would be the source of your problem.
The convection fan motor doesn't kick in until there is a heat rise sensed by the low-limit switch; meaning, If the blower came on at the same time as the burner, it would pump cold air through the house at first. The limit switch includes a sensor in the heat exchanger to determine when the air is warm enough to circulate. Once the air reaches a preset temperature, the limit switch turns on the blower.
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This switch may be expected to operate your paddle fan / light correctly, when properly installed.

"Properly installed" means that the loads will not exceed the limits of the switch. For your Cooper 6482V-K this is: 300 watts of light (bulbs should be standard incandescent types - or other type such as compact fluorescent, but only if they are clearly labeled as "dimmable") and not more than 1.5 amps for the fan motor. This 1.5 amp rating of the switch is usually more than enough to handle most residential paddle fan / light fixtures. The lights must be connected to the continuously variable dimmer and the fan to the 4 speed switch - do not swap.

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The low OFF setting should be about 100 degrees.
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OLD wall timer Model E1020 ticks really loud


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I believe the code you refer to regarding the fan having to be wired onto a timer switch was a local requirement from many years ago.

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Building Code requires that bath fans be piped/vented to the outside of the house and not into the attic space.

There are newer preset timer switches that will turn on the exhaust fan for a fixed amount of time, based on which button you push. These are great as they will run the fan long enough to remove condensation from showers, etc.

If you're going to replace the timer, disconnect or turn off the breaker or power to the switch. Then simply install a new timer or switch by connecting the black supply wire to the bottom of the single pole switch, or to one of the black leads of the timer. Then connect the black wire going to the fan to the top screw on the single pole switch, or the other lead on the new timer. The white (neutral) wires should already be connected with a wire nut inside the box. Connect the ground wire to the ground wire in the box and if the switch box is metal, attach the ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw too.

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