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First of all Id like to state that Reality car amps arent the best quality amps on the market and they normally will burn out on you. From what you are telling me it looks like your sub outs are defective, the output signal from the car amplifier is dead usually due to weak or defective terminals or poor soldering by the manufacturer, very common with lower quality amps. My suggestion is to replace the amp with at least a mid grade amp like a sony xplod or pioneer amp , if money is an issue then you can have the outputs checked out , check the wiring and also make sure that your ground is solid and making good contact to the cars chassis otherwise you wont get sound. Check the Amp turn on cable which is the small blue wire and check that your radio has the amp turn on or subwoofer signal turned on. Let me know your status and Ill do my best to help you out.
The size of the wire affects the performance of an amp, but the amp should still turn on. 12 volts is 12 volts. So you tested with another amp, on the same wires, and it works fine.The only thing you can really check on the new amp is the fuses in the side. If those are blown, then you should be able to (Unless the amp is fried, and that's why it blew the fuses in the first place) fire it right up. If the fuses arent blown, and you have all your power, and ground, and still nothing.. Well then in that case the amp is just bad, and regardless of the wattage, you just don't fix a Pyle amp.
Disconnect all speakers, then turn the amp on. If there is no internal problem with the amp, it will go green. If it does go green, reconnect your speakers one at a time with the amp off then turn it on. when you connect the speaker that's causing the problem, the amp will go into protection. At this point, it's one of two things, a bad speaker wire (screw thru it or touching another terminal) or a bad speaker(burnt voice coil) to test that wire, disconnect the wire at the speaker and turn on the amp, if it's still green, all's well in the wire department. Meter the speaker with a multimeter on resistance, if it's blown the meter will read 1.... If you don't have a meter, connect the speaker that's having the problem to the other channel and test again, if it goes into protection, you've got your answer. Bad speaker. Hope this helps
Sisnce you didn't mention the protection LED, I'll assume it's not on.
You need to measure the voltage across the B+ and ground terminals of the amplifier to confirm that the voltage at the terminals is least 11 volts. Also check the voltage on the remote turn-on terminal. Place the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and set the meter to DC volts.
Check the main amp fuse under the hood, even if it looks good just change it. Often times that light on the amp can come on just from the power amp tunon wire. Try a friends subwoofer box just to make sure the connectors on your box are good, and if that doesn't work then give me some more details....year/make/model of car, what kind of sub, what types of things do you see on the side of the amp....is there a green light as well as a red light?
switch off the amp then take off all the wires off including the speaker wire and then reconnect the wires on like before the problem is that the amp is on protection and if that dont work then get it repaired another thing is make sure ur amp fuses havent blown.