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What amp/receiver are you using? Have you plugged the sub woofer cable to LFE output on the amp? Are you using the right subwoofer cable? Have you enabled the amp to use the subwoofer?
very good ! there is nothig wrong with your system, buy a stereo to mono RCA jack (Rs10/-) and connect the subwoofer (if single coiled) L+ & R-- of your existing amplifier. NB: Please go through the manual of amplifier .
Good day, In your trunk there are 2 small amps. The first amp is connected to your car speakers. The second amp is connected to your subwoofer. Once you locate the subwoofer amp. Your subwoofer amp will be the amp close to the sub enclosure. Unplug the subwoofer from the amp. Your next step is to unscrew the 4 10mm bolts so that you can remove the sub enclosure. At this point you can now remove the enclosure. It will take a some time as it always seems to be up there pretty good. But once it starts to move it should come out with little work. I hope this helps with your removal of the subwoofer.
Last two questions first - YES, use an RCA splitter to share sub line level out between two subs and use one at the subwoofer end to share that line with both inputs on the sub.
Either attachment scheme you describe would work.
Not being a big fan of conversion/deconversion for no real purpose, I would avoid stepping the high-level input down to line level for use by the sub's internal amp, run RCA to the sub(s) and keep them physically and electrically independent of anything else unless cable routing is facilitated somehow by daisy-chaining other speakers from the sub(s).
USE THE PROCESS OF ELIMINATION. SWITCH THE SUBWOOFER RCA INPUTS AROUND AND IF THE PROBLEM STAYS IN THE SAME CHANNEL, THE THE AMPLIFIER OR SPEAKER IS AT FAULT. IF THE PROBLEM SWITCHES TO THE OTHER SPEAKER, THEN THE PROBLEM IS THE RCA CABLE OR RADIO/CROSSOVER ITSELF. YOU CAN VERIFY YOUR FINDINGS BY RETESTING STARTING WITH THE SPEAKERS FIRST. SWAP THE SPEAKERS AROUND AND IF THE PROBLEM STAYS ON THE SAME SPEAKER, THEN THE SPEAKER IS AT FAULT. IF THE PROBLEMS SWITCHES TO THE OTHER SPEAKER, THEN THE AMPLIFIER OR INPUTS ARE TO BLAME. BY FOLLOWING THESE TWO METHODS, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO DETERMINE EXACTLY WHICH COMPONENTS ARE AT FAULT. REMEMBER, YOU HAVE BASICALLY ALWAYS HAVE AN INPUT, AN AMPLIFIER AND A SPEAKER. THIS PROCESS OF ELIMINATION WILL HELP YOU IN THE FUTURE WITH MANY TYPES OF PROBLEMS. LET ME KNOW IF YOU REQUIRE FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V PS: MAKE SURE THAT THE GAINS AND BOOST CONTROLS ARE SET TO THE SAME LEVEL FOR BOTH CHANNELS BEING TESTED. ALSO MAKE SURE THAT THE BALANCE CONTROL ON THE RADIO IS STILL SET TO THE MIDDLE. DON'T WANT THESE CURVEBALLS INTERFERING WITH YOUR TROUBLESHOOTING......V
On the back of the amp, there should be a jack with the name "SUBWOOFER PRE OUT". It is a standard RCA jack, but it only puts out a line output, meaning only self-powered subwoofers will work with it. Usually, if the subwoofer does not have an amp, it will have 2 imputs and 2 outputs. You plug the two left and right inputs into the front speaker jack on the amp, and then plug the front speakers into the left and right amp on the subwoofer.
It's probably the amp in the subwoofer. Bad cable don't cause clipping. Nor, is an amp output likely to overdrive the subwoofer.
On second thought, why are you using an amp with it turned off? Have you tried turning on the amp whcih provides the signal to the subwoofer? That could well be your problem.
try pluging in a diff, speaker to the amp see if u get sound.try powering the sub with a home radio just to see if u get sound at all if ur getting sound from the sub then its the amp but u could of damaged it when the amp over heated
that subwoofer has dual 4ohm voice coils, if your amp can handle 2 ohms, you would put a wire from the positive (+) on the amp to the positive on both connectors on the sub, then hook the negative (-) on the amp to the negative on both the sub connectors that will be a 2 ohm load on your amp make sure your amp at 2 ohms is not more than 600 watts RMS or 1200 max.
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