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Need wiring diagram for old 1960's General Electric Wall Oven

Specifically for the Thermostat control and Temp. selection control units

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  • northernsong Jan 27, 2008

    Don't know if you need all these #'s but her goes: Oven-J720T3BR 88 ZT242-454F. Thermo contol unit-WB21X5208. Don't have # for the Temp select component

  • northernsong Jan 27, 2008

    This is a parts and component diagram. What I need is the wiring diagram(schematic) that shows the proper connections to the thermostat contol unit and the temperature selection unit.

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Need wiring diagram for old 1960's General Electri - 55de40b.jpg Hopefully this will help. Don't know if it is the same model, but it is a 60s GE built in oven.

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

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  • Master
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Please post the Model # from the units tag and i will see what I can do for you

Posted on Jan 26, 2008

  • 3 more comments 
  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Jan 26, 2008

    Also if i cant find it I can maybe walk you thru it

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Jan 27, 2008


    THE Well the thermosat is still avib $69.00 Part # still the same

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Jan 27, 2008

    Found

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Jan 27, 2008

    Found a Model# 765 see pic

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Jan 27, 2008

    Sorry i have pulled my hair out looking for this wiring diagram with no luch dlb check the back side of the removable panels they may have glued one there....If you want to tellme what you are trying to wire and maybe i can help you there...Also if you post a pic of the wires i can see what you are dealing with..Let me know

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1 Answer

When oven reaches a temp of 350 it flashes F3


Hello. I need the model number of your unit to help you accurately with exploded parts diagrams and part numbers. From what you describe, it sounds like you have a defective oven temperature sensor. There are only 2 things that govern temp in a range--the EOC(main oven control board) and the temperature sensor. It's connected to the main board by a 2-wire harness. Usually, there is a connector at the end of the short pigtail coming from the sensor. The contacts in the sensor can oxidize, breaking electrical connection or, the signal can be lost due to a broken wire, loose connection, etc. Most often, the sensors will have an electrical resistance of approximately 1100 Ohms +/- 10%. Usually, if the sensor checks good, the main board is the culprit. Hope I helped you!

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The house I've just bought has a Smeg 60 cm wall oven installed. Possibly 4-5 yrs old. I can't get it to work. An orange light comes on on the door panel when the temp control is turned on. Light goes...


Most of these ovens have two fans. A fan forced fan in the oven and a cavity extractor fan inside the cavity of the unit between the outer skin and the oven wall. The cavity fan blows hot cavity air out the front of the unit so it remains cool. If the orange indicator light is coming on this would normally be the oven element thermostat. Leave it on and see if it gets hot. If the light goes off when you select the function switch it means you are turning it off the oven function. Your interior oven light may be blown.
Hope this helps.

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I can not get the oven to come on. It is pluged in and the stove top works. The oven runs off electric and the top is both. No one can fix it and the oven does not heat up at all.


Most of the time, whn this problem occurs on ovens, it is mainly caused by the ovens thermostat. Run a test on the oven thermostat and replace it if it is faulty.
An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.
Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!
Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures, transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this was helpful. Thanks for using fixya.

Jan 27, 2011 | Magic Chef Ovens

2 Answers

My oven will not warm up. It will just stay at 100 degrees. The gas stove works fine but the oven will not warm up to the desired heat. It worked fine 2 days ago, any suggestions.


My dear friend, i suspect the oven thermostat to be responsible for this. It is a switch that opens when the temperature of a oven is set. Therefore it is bad and cannot work according to the temperature it is set to. The thermostat is located at the control panel where a liquid filled temperature sensor bulb which senses and maintains the temperature of the oven by turning it on and off at every cycle.
First You have to test the thermostat before replacing it. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution! Since i do not know the exact maytag oven type, here is the general process for all types of oven.
  1. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable back splash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the back splash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
  2. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
  3. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
  4. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To replace the thermostat of the oven, please follow the steps below:
  1. Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
  2. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.
  3. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures, transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this helped you. Thank you for using fixya.

Jan 21, 2011 | Maytag Ovens

1 Answer

Bake element will not shut off at set temp.


You need to check the oven cycle relay,
  1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!
  2. In order to gain access to the oven cycling relay, refer to your owner's manual. Removing the back panel of the range accesses most relays, but some ranges locate the relay under the oven compartment where the utility drawer is usually located.
  3. Now you can test the relay using your VOM. First, label each wire attached to the relay and remove them from the relay terminals. Using your VOM's ohmmeter function, set the range to R x 1 and touch one test lead to the terminal marked L and the other test lead to terminal H2. There should be NO continuity. Next, test the terminals marked H1 and H2. Again, there should be NO continuity. Finally, test the S and R terminals. Continuity should exist between these two terminals. If your relay does not pass all these tests, it is defective and should be replaced.
  4. To remove the relay, undo the two screws securing it to the range and replace with the correct new relay. Refer to your wiring diagram and labeled wires to ensure that the wires are on the correct terminals. Now replace the back panel or drawer and test the oven.
Then you check the oven thermostat: When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this information helped you.

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1 Answer

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Normally you should have an appliance spare parts supplier in your area. They generally stock all range of spares for all appliances. You need to pull plug out of the wall and remove the panel covering the wiring to gain access to the oven thermostat. Look carefully on the body of the thermostat and record any numbers you see on a sticker that's present. Then remove knob off in front of thermostat and see if there is a nut attached to the centre which holds the thermostat in position or if there are 2 screws holding the thermostat in place. Use this information to order the thermostat also quoting the oven model number.

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1 Answer

I cannot get the oven to come on after I used the self cleaning.


Things to check- The screw in fuses, they are usually the 30 amp fuses for the oven. Next is the clock assembly, often these clocks will have the words "push for manual" or "turn for manual", this will put the clock back into the normal operating mode rather than the automatic mode. Next, you may have to remove the power and check for any burnt wires. If all checks ok, you will have to test the selector switch and oven control.
 Oven temp problems: Temperature is too low possible trouble makers, blown oven fuse, bake element is out, burnt wire, oven probe clips, oven temp control, oven temp sensor.
Temperature is too high in the oven possible trouble makers, oven temp control, oven relay ( if used ), oven probe clips, oven temp sensor, shorted wire.
These oven probe clips often rust off and the oven temp probe hangs down, or touches the oven wall giving false temperature readings to the oven control.

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GE P7 Wall oven had bad thermostat????


IF YOUR HEATING ELEMENT IS GETTING ORANGE HOT, AND CYCLING, I WOULD SUSPECT THE THERMOSTAT TO BE THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM. YOU MAY FIND IT HARD TO FIND ONE THOUGH DUE TO ITS AGE.

Jan 28, 2009 | GE JKP50SH Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

GE J BP27G R1AD Oven Not Heating Fully


Hi Jeff. You should have a wiring diagram with the range. Check for an envelope on the back of the range, inside the back splash, or taped to the inside side wall of the range if you remove the lower drawer. That all being said, first check to see if the start or stop time knobs on the timer have been pushed in (and possibly turned). If the clock runs, it will clear this out within 12 hours, but on these old ranges often times the clock no longer runs. Make sure these knobs are turned until they have "popped" out or you won't get the necessary voltage where you need it. Secondly, when a bake element burns out, it can cause damage to the electrical contacts in the oven selector switch (part number WB22X5122 ) which can be tested with an ohm meter if you can find the electrical diagram. Also, the oven thermostat (part number WB21X5320 ) can be damaged in the same way. Unfortunately, these parts for these old units are not very cheap.
The little bit of heat you are getting in your oven now is most likely only from the 120 volts going to the broiler element when in Bake. During Bake, your bake element should get 240 volts (until thermostat is satisfied). Setting to Broil should give 240 to the broil element.

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1 Answer

Wont Heat at all


sounds like you have a bad wire connection someplace in the oven.

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