Question about Honeywell HE220A1019 Whole House Humidifier Humidifier
I installed the HE220A humidifier in October, with the humidistat and flow switch. As soon as the outdoor temperatures dropped I had very heavy sweating on every window in the house, enough to puddle water on the sills and woodwork and cause mold to grow. For weeks I played around with the humidistat setting without any change in the amount of sweating. I also reduced the water flow to the unit so there is barely any water coming down the drain. This also resulted in no change. Finally I unplugged the humidifier and within one day my windows were dry. I wonder if the humidistat is faulty. Is there a way for me to test it? Is there any other way to reduce the capacity of the unit besides reducing the flow of water to it?
I don't know much about humidifiers other than they are rarely needed and most folk around here would rather there was a lot less humidity., especially considering how easily black mould grows and how injurious to health that can be.
Those few people living with an unsuitable heating system in a badly designed house usually find it is adequate to have a water feature in the lounge or to balance a bowl of water on a radiator.
Certainly when the windows sweat to such a degree, especially if you have double glazing, the humidity must be well above the comfort range, above 70%, and probably well into the moist range of 80% - 90%. Higher than that and any exertion becomes decidedly unconfortable...
I am guessing the humidistat is either faulty or cannot work because the humidity is already too high. I suggest you need to check the humidity in your home with an accurate independent humidity meter before you go further...
Posted on Mar 25, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I am having the same problem. I have had my humidifier for about 5 years now and I just started having the problem where the water continuously flows through the solenoid. I took apart the solenoid by removing the fittings from both sides. When I did that, I noticed that there was a hole in the metal that allowed me to see through to the other side. Apparently, it had corroded and and broken through, allowing the water to pass through the solenoid without really going through the valve within the solenoid. There are several sites that sell replacements for about $70, which is not cheap, but cheaper than buing a new humidifier for $120. Here is one site I found: http://www.iaqsource.com/product.php/honeywell/32001639-002/?product=112783&category=1142
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
My problem was the input water pressure (someone apparently changed it). I did, however, remove the unit and clean the filter which was pretty gunked up and that, along with adjusting the water pressure going into the solenoid, appears to have solved the problem.
Thanks to all who responded.
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
it is best to use a seperate transformer for the hummidifier, but in some cases you can use the low voltage t-stat wire that runs your furnace, you will need to have one wire run to common, and the other to the heating side of your low voltage, normally its the red wire hooked to the w circuit of your terminal board, if you do decide to go with an extra transformer, make sure you you have it wired to bring on the humidifier only when the unit calls for heat, hope that helps
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
Maybe I can help. this is 24v so it doestn't matter which wire goes where so here goes. 2 wires from humidistat go to furnace, split one of the wires(not both) so they reach the yellow wires on the humidifier. with marettsconnect one of the split wires to one of the yellow wires. do the same to the other split wire and yellow wire. what you should get is one wire from humidistat to furnace then one wire from humidifier to humidistat and one from humidifier to furnace. hope this helps
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
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