Question about Kitchen Ranges

2 Answers

Front panel off

Helllo, the front lcd panel is not working due to a heating episode when doing a self oven cleaning the unit overheated and the break was triped. After power back on only the burners work and not he LCD panel that controls the oven and the microwave. Any suggestions would be appreciated CR

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  • carrosales Jan 26, 2008

    Yes the brand is Sharp and the model number is KB-3300J 



  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2008

    Do  you know where the oven temp fuse is?
    I have a technician working on the unit but we wan't find the fuse and after doing some testing that is the only connection we can't test.
    Thank you
    Carlos

  • carrosales Feb 14, 2008

    Hello can you tell me where to find the oven temperature fuse.


    This is the only thing we haven't being able to test to solve the problem.

  • carrosales Feb 14, 2008

    It is a rangemicrowawave combination.
    Thanks
    Carlos






  • carrosales Feb 21, 2008

    The problem with the LCD panel still continue. We change some parts but still not going.


    We will try to put it in the curve, that will take care of the problem for good.
    Thanks for the help any way.

  • carrosales Mar 09, 2008

    We found the problem. however the fuse TCF is located in between the microwave oven and the regular oven. It is in place where can't be reached. The solution was to bypass it ant it is working just fine.


    Until I can get a new one.
    Thanks 
    Carlos

  • Lopezt215 Oct 26, 2008

    LAST YEAR I HAD A PROBLEM WITH ELECTRICITY IN HOUSE . STRIGHT 240 WENT TO THE OVEN AND LKE ALL OTHER PRODUCTS IN THE HOUSE THE LCD WAS KNOCKED OUT. OVEN DOES NOT WORK NOR MICROWAVE. COULD IT BE THIS ROUND SHAPE FUSE?

  • robert samples May 11, 2010

    brand and model would help

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I have a es200/300 smooth top frigidare, the bave will not heat up, every other botton works fine, help please

Posted on Mar 09, 2008

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A lot of theese ranges have whats called a thermal fuse or tco that will open when the oven goes into an over heat condition i don't have access to sharps data but if you call you local appliance parts store they can look it up for you and tell you where it is youll have to buy a new one any way

Posted on Jan 26, 2008

  • robert samples Feb 14, 2008

    this came in as a range is it a rangemicrowave combination or an over the range mircrowave

  • robert samples Feb 14, 2008

    ok pull the range out most of the time you take off the back panel ant the fuse is there it doesn't look like any fuse you've ever seen its a round disc standing on two little legs with two wires on it on some its called a thermal fuse on others its called a tco or thermal cut out most of the time you can follow the wires from the heater elements and find it i havent had hands on with sharp but they are all pretty much the same

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Oven not heating up after using self clean oven feature


OK. Not a professional, but I happen to have a lot of experience with this situation. For reference, I have a Whirlpool RBD305PDT11 Double-Oven with a "Self-Clean" feature.

Inevitably, my bride decided that she would "clean" the oven. She set the controls and let it go. At the end of this procedure, I noticed that the electronic control board no longer showed the time or any other lights. So, I checked it out and found that the oven was ENTIRELY non-functional. Virtually nothing would work.

Since this oven is hard-wired, I turned off the fuse and let it sit for few minutes (these things are just computers, so I thought that I would "reboot" the whole thing). This did nothing.

Then, with the help of the internet (thank you, "Fixya"), I found out that this model of Whirlpool oven (and many others of different brand names) seems to have this sort of problem all the time.

It turns out that the physical act of using the "Self-Clean" feature, with its very high heat, blows a few "Thermal Fuses" that are one-use only and cannot be reset. They must be replaced.

First, be sure to turn off the power to the oven BEFORE doing anything. I did this and then took the oven out of the wall enclosure so I could get to the back of the unit. For sake of brevity, I will not go over the procedure to take the oven out of the wall, but those instructions can be found on the internet. Several metal screws hold the sheet metal covering on the top and bottom. Note: This has happened to me twice now (my bride used the "Self Clean" feature without my knowledge) and I have found that the lower Thermal Fuse has NOT blown either time, but the top one has blown both times.

On this unit, the "Oven Shutdown Thermal Fuse" (part number 4451442 costing about $40) is attached with two screws and is located on the upper left section (picture attached below). It is very easy to take the two wire leads off and remove the two screws holding it in place. You can then check this item with a Multimeter to see if the fuse is working. I won't go over the Multimeter instructions, but, you are looking for "Continuity". If you have continuity (electricity will flow), the fuse is good. If you do not have continuity, the fuse is bad.

The first time that this happened (about 5 years ago), the control panel still had lights on and was issuing "error codes" specific to this brand of oven (I don't remember the codes...F1 or something) and the only problem was the fuse as discussed above.

However, the second time that this happened, as I mentioned earlier, the control panel was blank also. So, I had to look for the "Control Panel Thermal Fuse" also. This fuse can be accessed from the FRONT and is behind the control panel. In this unit, that part number is 4451042 and costs about $20. This item is sheathed in clear plastic with a "bullet-looking" thing inside of the plastic. It is very easy to pull this fuse out and check it for continuity to see if it is in working order. Continuity (electricity can flow from one side to the other), and the fuse is good. No continuity, and the fuse is bad. Again, you can check the continuity with a Multimeter. In the second instance of this happening, this fuse was bad also (that is why the control panel had no lights or error codes or anything).

Once I replaced these fuses, the control panel came back, the oven would then respond and worked just fine. If I was to guess, I would say that the cabinet that the oven is installed into is too tight of a space and the temperature just gets way too hot and the fuses blow. This is just a thought, but maybe a fan set to blow at the unit when attempting the cleaning process would help keep the unit somewhat cooler on the outside. But then, at $60 to fix and all of the hassle involved, I am NOT willing try this just to see if it helps!

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This sounds like it blew the thermostat on the back of the lower oven. They are inexpensive and easy to replace. You will need to uninstall the unit and remove the back panel to acess. Check it for continuity if none replace. This is a fairly common failure due to the heat of the self cleaning. Here is a link to your part and diagrams are also available there AP3055316

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Dear Dupe,

please rate this solution if it mends up ur needs,else choose fixya,


please do the following checks,

  • Reseat the element
  • Test the element
  • Test the element connectors
  • Check the thermometer bulb
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  • Test the oven selector control
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  • please rate this solution if it mends up ur needs,else choose fixya.Thank you

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